DynoSim combinations

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I have checked the results I get against real dyno pulls and this DynoSim has shown to be within 2% of real. Not bad in my opinion. I'm seriously considering upgrading to DynoSim5 and an add-on cam file. I have 800 cam files now, but the add-on would give me 6000 files. I was dragged kicking and screaming into the computer age, but I'll tell you, there's nothing any more fun than dinkin' on this thing. Well.....there was that time in New Orleans, but that's a whole 'nuther story...
 
I have checked the results I get against real dyno pulls and this DynoSim has shown to be within 2% of real. Not bad in my opinion. I'm seriously considering upgrading to DynoSim5 and an add-on cam file. I have 800 cam files now, but the add-on would give me 6000 files. I was dragged kicking and screaming into the computer age, but I'll tell you, there's nothing any more fun than dinkin' on this thing. Well.....there was that time in New Orleans, but that's a whole 'nuther story...
  
===355 Gen I Chevy street motor, budget build===
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===355 SBC street motor, budget build===
*Block: '68-'86 Chevy 350 Gen I bored +0.030". Check main bearing bore for round and parallel, align-hone or align-bore, as *necessary to line up the bores and insure they are ROUND. Once the mains are valid, register the block on the main saddle and cut *the block decks to square the block up and set the squish where you want it. I don't want to hear any carpin' about the cost of *cuttin' on the block. If you can't afford to do this stuff, take up another hobby.   
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*Block: '68-'86 Chevy 350 Gen I bored +0.030". Check main bearing bore for round and parallel, align hone or align bore as necessary to correct the bores and insure they are ''round''. Once the main bores are done, register the block from the main saddle and cut the block decks to square the block up and set the squish where you want it. Don't try to cut corners here, this lays the foundation for the work and parts to come.   
*Crank: Stock 350, 3.48" stroke, 2.450" main journal diameter.  
+
*Crank is the stock 350, 3.48" stroke, 2.450" main journal diameter.  
*Rods: Stock 350 5.7". Recommend ARP bolts, re-size big end. Here is a set of GM rods that have been worked over, probably would cost less than having your shop re-do your rods: [http://www.competitionproducts.com/Custom-Rebuilt-GM-Rod-Chev-350-LJ/productinfo/804335/ Rebuilt rods]
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*[http://www.competitionproducts.com/Custom-Rebuilt-GM-Rod-Chev-350-LJ/productinfo/804335/ Rebuilt rods] are sufficient for this build. If using an existing set of stock rods, ARP hardware and resizing is recommended. 
**Scat makes a dandy set of [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700P/ 5.7" forged rods] that are affordable.
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**Scat makes a decent set of [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700P/ 5.7" forged rods] that are affordable.
*Pistons: [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155 Keith Black hypereutectic], part #KB193, 12cc D-cup, 5/64,5/64,3/16 rings. 1.561" compression height. Gap top ring 0.026", second ring 0.018".
+
*Pistons: [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155 Keith Black hypereutectic], p/n KB193, 12cc D-cup, 5/64,5/64,3/16 rings. 1.561" compression height. Gap top ring 0.026", second ring 0.018".
 
   
 
   
*Heads: [http://www.competitionproducts.com/RHS-ProTorker-Vortec-Cast-Iron-Head-170cc_64cc-Bare-Each/productinfo/RHS12410/ RHS Pro Torquer Vortec], part number 12410, 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust. These heads will accept either conventional or Vortec type intake manifolds, they are drilled and tapped for both types. More on using an early style intake on a Vortec style head can be seen [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Intake_manifold#Using_an_early_style_intake_on_an_aftermarket_Vortec-type_head '''here'''].
+
*[http://www.competitionproducts.com/RHS-ProTorker-Vortec-Cast-Iron-Head-170cc_64cc-Bare-Each/productinfo/RHS12410/ RHS Pro Torquer Vortec] heads, p/n 12410, 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust. These heads will accept either conventional or Vortec type intake manifolds, they are drilled and tapped for both types. More on using an early style intake on a Vortec style head can be seen [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Intake_manifold#Using_an_early_style_intake_on_an_aftermarket_Vortec-type_head '''here'''].
*Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM #7101, Weiand Stealth #8016, Holley 300-36 or Professional *Products Typhoon. Check ebay and craigslist for used manifolds if your budget is tight.  
+
*Intake manifold: Dual plane, highrise such as the Edelbrock RPM p/n 7101, Weiand Stealth p/n 8016, Holley p/n 300-36 or Professional Products Typhoon. Check ebay and craigslist for used manifolds if your budget is tight.  
 
*Carburetor: Vacuum secondaries 750 CFM.
 
*Carburetor: Vacuum secondaries 750 CFM.
*Headers: 1 3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2 1/2" pipe to the rear *through mufflers of your choice.  
+
*Headers: 1-5/8" primaries, long-tube. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2-1/2" pipe to the rear through mufflers of your choice.  
*Camshaft: Flat tappet hydraulic [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=72&sb=0 Comp Cams 260H], installed straight up.  
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*Camshaft: [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=72&sb=0 Comp Cams 260H] flat tappet hydraulic, installed straight up.  
 
*Rocker Arms: 1.6 ratio on both intake and exhaust.  
 
*Rocker Arms: 1.6 ratio on both intake and exhaust.  
 
*Static Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
 
*Static Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
 
*Dynamic Compression Ratio: 8.4:1
 
*Dynamic Compression Ratio: 8.4:1
*Quench: 0.035" to 0.045". Zero piston deck height with 0.035" to 0.045" head gasket or 0.010" to 0.020" piston deck height with Victor Reinz #5746 head gasket that compresses to 0.025".  
+
*Quench: 0.035" to 0.045". Zero piston deck height with 0.035" to 0.045" head gasket or 0.010" to 0.020" piston deck height with Victor Reinz p/n 5746 head gasket that compresses to 0.025".  
  
 
====Results====
 
====Results====
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*5500 453 433
 
*5500 453 433
 
*6000 450 394
 
*6000 450 394
Stock converter and stock rear gear will work, but would be more fun with a converter that stalls at 2000 to 2200 rpm and a 3.73 rear gear.  
+
Stock converter and stock rear gear will work, but would be more fun with a converter that stalls at 2000 to 2200 rpm and a 3.73 rear gear.
  
===383 Gen I street motor 485 hp/496 ft-lbs torque===
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===383 SBC stroker 485 hp/496 ft-lbs torque===
 
Staying with RHS, using the Pro Action 180cc heads and reducing the advertised flow by 5% to get closer to real world results, the flow used for this build on a 383 will be as follows:
 
Staying with RHS, using the Pro Action 180cc heads and reducing the advertised flow by 5% to get closer to real world results, the flow used for this build on a 383 will be as follows:
  
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.700 257 185<br>
 
.700 257 185<br>
  
*This uses a 350 block bored to size, a 3.750" stroke crank and 5.7" rods. Scat makes a cast crank and capscrew I-beam rods that will work here. Have your machine shop "beep" the cylinder walls with a sonic checker for thickness if the bore will need to go bigger than 0.030" over. Smokey Yunick used to recommend a minimum cylinder wall thickness of 0.135" after boring and honing.  
+
*This uses a 350 block bored to size, a 3.750" stroke crank and 5.7" rods. Scat makes a cast crank and capscrew I-beam rods that will work here. Have your machine shop sonic test the cylinder walls for thickness if the bores need to go more than 0.030" over. Smokey Yunick used to recommend a minimum cylinder wall thickness of 0.135" after boring and honing.  
 
*Heads: Racing Head Service Pro Action 180, 72cc chambers, 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust.  
 
*Heads: Racing Head Service Pro Action 180, 72cc chambers, 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust.  
*Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic #KB134, 7cc flat-top, 5/64/5/64/3/16 rings, 1.433" compression height.  
+
*Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic #KB134, 7cc flat-top, 5/64-5/64-3/16 rings, 1.433" compression height.  
*Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM, Weiand Stealth or Professional Products Typhoon.
+
*Intake manifold: Dual plane, highrise such as the Edelbrock RPM, Weiand Stealth or Professional Products Typhoon.
 
*Carburetor: 850 cfm vacuum secondary.
 
*Carburetor: 850 cfm vacuum secondary.
*Headers: 1-3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2-1/2" to 2-3/4" pipe to the rear through mufflers of your choice.  
+
*Headers: 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" primaries, long-tube. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2-1/2" to 2-3/4" pipe to the rear through mufflers of your choice.  
 
*Camshaft: [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=79&sb=0 Comp cams 12-212-2 Comp Cams hydraulic flat tappet], installed 2 degrees retarded.
 
*Camshaft: [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=79&sb=0 Comp cams 12-212-2 Comp Cams hydraulic flat tappet], installed 2 degrees retarded.
 
*Rocker arms: 1.6, lift at valve 0.512".
 
*Rocker arms: 1.6, lift at valve 0.512".
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*6000 481 421
 
*6000 481 421
  
===383, 505 hp/500 ft-lbs torque===
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===383 SBC stoker 505 hp/500 ft-lbs torque===
 
Same motor as above with [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=238&sb=0 Comp Cams solid lifter flat tappet cam], 1.5 rockers.
 
Same motor as above with [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=238&sb=0 Comp Cams solid lifter flat tappet cam], 1.5 rockers.
  
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*6500 481 389
 
*6500 481 389
  
===355, L31 heads===
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===350 SBC L31 heads===
Flat tappet hydraulic cam, stock rail rockers, some head work for better springs.
+
Flat tappet hydraulic cam, stock self aligning (SA) rockers, some head work for better springs.
  
In this build, a tight budget is important. In that vein, use stock self aligning (SA) rockers. Lift is under a half inch, so the SA rockers should be OK. Check to see if using a -0.050" lock will be needed to insure the valve tip sticks up far enough above the retainer so that the retainer top surface doesn't get loaded by the side rails of the rail rockers. More on checking clearances, etc. under '''Resources''', below.
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In this build, a tight budget is called for. To that end, use stock self aligning rockers. Lift is under a half inch, so the SA rockers should be OK. Check to see if using a -0.050" lock will be needed to insure the valve tip sticks up far enough above the retainer so that the retainer top surface doesn't get loaded by the side rails of the rail rockers. More info on checking clearances, etc. under [[DynoSim combinations#Resources|'''Resources''']].
  
 
*Bore the block 0.030", use [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/test/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155 '''these'''] or similar 12cc dished pistons w/5.7 rods.
 
*Bore the block 0.030", use [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/test/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155 '''these'''] or similar 12cc dished pistons w/5.7 rods.
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*Performance Distributors custom curved HEI distributor,  [http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmssdui.htm p/n 12720], or [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Hot_rodding_the_HEI_distributor '''build your own'''] from a GM HEI.
 
*Performance Distributors custom curved HEI distributor,  [http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmssdui.htm p/n 12720], or [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Hot_rodding_the_HEI_distributor '''build your own'''] from a GM HEI.
 
*Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake mounting a 750 vacuum secondary carb of your choice. Edelbrock, Rochester 5 psi max at the inlet, Holley 6 psi max at the inlet.
 
*Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake mounting a 750 vacuum secondary carb of your choice. Edelbrock, Rochester 5 psi max at the inlet, Holley 6 psi max at the inlet.
*Performer RPM Vortec w/natural finish: #7116, w/EnduraShine finish: #71164, w/polished finish: #71161, or look for a used manifold on craigslist to save a few shekels.  
+
*Performer RPM Vortec w/natural finish: p/n 7116, w/EnduraShine finish: p/n 71164, w/polished finish: p/n 71161, or look for a used manifold on craigslist to save a few shekels.  
 
*Long-tube 1-5/8" headers with X or H pipe right after the collectors, 2-1/2" to 3" pipes to the rear through mufflers of your choice.
 
*Long-tube 1-5/8" headers with X or H pipe right after the collectors, 2-1/2" to 3" pipes to the rear through mufflers of your choice.
 
*Use 2500 stall converter, shorter rear gears.  
 
*Use 2500 stall converter, shorter rear gears.  
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**Peak BMEP 184.5 @4000
 
**Peak BMEP 184.5 @4000
  
===350 with dual four barrels===
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===350 SBC dual four barrels===
* Pistons: flat-top, 7cc's, 1.561" CH [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/...php?action=comp p/n KB106-030]
+
* Pistons: Keith Black flat-top, 7cc's, 1.561" CH p/n KB106-030.
 
*Heads: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5073/ Edelbrock E-Street] p/n 5073, 185cc intake runners, 70cc chambers, 9.53:1 SCR. Published flow was factored by 0.95 for this exercise.
 
*Heads: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5073/ Edelbrock E-Street] p/n 5073, 185cc intake runners, 70cc chambers, 9.53:1 SCR. Published flow was factored by 0.95 for this exercise.
*High leak-down rate flat tappet hydraulic lifters such as Crane 99377-16 Hi Intensity Hydraulic Lifters because we are going to use "too much" cam for the SCR. These lifters will reduce duration by 6-10 degrees under 3000 rpm for better bottom end torque.  
+
*High leak-down rate flat tappet hydraulic lifters such as Crane p/n 99377-16 Hi Intensity Hydraulic Lifters because we are going to use "too much" cam for the SCR. These lifters will reduce duration by 6-10 degrees under 3000 rpm for better bottom end torque.  
*Cam: Crane [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-110591/ '''p/n 110591'''] Saturday Night Special flat tappet hydraulic, installed 2 degrees retarded.
+
*Cam: Crane [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-110591/ p/n 110591] Saturday Night Special flat tappet hydraulic, installed 2 degrees retarded.
 
*With pistons at 1.561", rods at 5.703" and crank radius at 1.740", the stack measures 9.004", so with a nominal 9.025" block deck height, you would need to make a cut of 0.021" to get to zero deck. A 0.040" compressed gasket would then put the squish at 0.040".
 
*With pistons at 1.561", rods at 5.703" and crank radius at 1.740", the stack measures 9.004", so with a nominal 9.025" block deck height, you would need to make a cut of 0.021" to get to zero deck. A 0.040" compressed gasket would then put the squish at 0.040".
 
*1-5/8" long tube headers.
 
*1-5/8" long tube headers.
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**This motor should be waaaaaay fun with a 4-speed or auto with a loose converter.
 
**This motor should be waaaaaay fun with a 4-speed or auto with a loose converter.
  
===400 SBC street/strip truck motor.===
+
===400 SBC street/strip truck motor===
 
*400 block bored 0.030" and zero decked to the piston crowns, align honed main bearing bore.
 
*400 block bored 0.030" and zero decked to the piston crowns, align honed main bearing bore.
*Scat [http://www.race-mart.com/Scat_Manuf...-3750-5700.html p/n 9-400-3750-5700] cast steel Pro Comp crankshaft.
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*Scat p/n 9-400-3750-5700 cast steel Pro Comp crankshaft.
*Scat [http://www.race-mart.com/Scat_Manuf...2-ICR5700P.html forged I-beam 5.7" rods].
+
*Scat forged I-beam 5.7" rods.
 
*Keith Black [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030 p/n UEM-KB168-030] hypereutectic pistons with 22cc dish to make 9.8:1 static compression ratio with 64cc heads.
 
*Keith Black [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030 p/n UEM-KB168-030] hypereutectic pistons with 22cc dish to make 9.8:1 static compression ratio with 64cc heads.
 
*Comp Cams [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-430-8/ p/n CCA-12-430-8] retro-fit hydraulic roller cam installed 2 degrees retarded.
 
*Comp Cams [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-430-8/ p/n CCA-12-430-8] retro-fit hydraulic roller cam installed 2 degrees retarded.
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*Dart Iron Eagle Platinum 215 cast iron heads, [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DRT-10521123P/ p/n DRT-10521123P] (price shown is for one head).
 
*Dart Iron Eagle Platinum 215 cast iron heads, [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DRT-10521123P/ p/n DRT-10521123P] (price shown is for one head).
 
*Barry Grant [http://www.amazon.com/Barry-Grant-1...r/dp/B000CIN32M Speed Demon 750] (BG is now defunct, so a similar carb may be substituted).
 
*Barry Grant [http://www.amazon.com/Barry-Grant-1...r/dp/B000CIN32M Speed Demon 750] (BG is now defunct, so a similar carb may be substituted).
*Jegs [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5003...roductId=751908 air filter base]. Run a hose from the base to your PCV system's clean air inlet on opposite side from the PCV valve.
 
*Jegs [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5003...roductId=751908 air filter lid].
 
*14" x 4" [http://www.shopping.com/Allstar-ALL...4hO3SNWw==/info paper filter element]. Snag the correct length stud and a wing nut from your local Ace Hardware.
 
 
*Hedman [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69088 Elite headers], 1-3/4" primaries.
 
*Hedman [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69088 Elite headers], 1-3/4" primaries.
  
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Use a composition gasket that compresses to 0.039" to 0.041". With the zero deck of the block, this will put the piston crown at 0.039" to 0.041" from the underside of the cylinder head with the piston at TDC. This establishes your "squish" dimension at 0.039" to 0.041", which will optimize the motor for detonation-free operation on pump gas.
 
Use a composition gasket that compresses to 0.039" to 0.041". With the zero deck of the block, this will put the piston crown at 0.039" to 0.041" from the underside of the cylinder head with the piston at TDC. This establishes your "squish" dimension at 0.039" to 0.041", which will optimize the motor for detonation-free operation on pump gas.
  
===Street cruiser running on cheapo pump gas===
+
===SBC pump gas street cruiser===
 
*375-400 horsepower, 425+ lbs/ft of torque with 9.0:1 static compression ratio.
 
*375-400 horsepower, 425+ lbs/ft of torque with 9.0:1 static compression ratio.
 
*Stock converter
 
*Stock converter
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*Around 3.50:1 rear gear  
 
*Around 3.50:1 rear gear  
  
*[http://www.competitionproducts.com/...tinfo/RHS12407/ RHS heads] (one bare head). They're inexpensive and they work good.  
+
*This build uses bare [http://www.racingheadservice.com/ RHS heads]. They're inexpensive and they work good. They're filled out with good quality valves, etc. Or they can be bought assembled.
*Then use one [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...oductinfo/8511/ valve kit] (fills 2 heads).
+
*[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-110315-10/ Here's the cam] (installed retarded 2 degrees).
*One [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ctinfo/42151-8/ guide plate kit] (fills 2 heads).
+
*[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91164N/ Roller lifters].
*And one [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...tinfo/134-7101/ rocker stud kit] (fills 2 heads).
+
*Use a [http://www.daymotorsports.com/proddisp.php?ln=16665&product=HOWARDS+COMPOSITE+DISTRIBUTOR+GEARS&partnumber=HWD-94402&description=Make+bronze+distributor+gear+wear+a+thing+of+the+past!+NASCAR-proven+technology+ Howards p/n 94402 composite distributor gear], it will outlast a bronze gear 3 to 1.
*[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-110315-10/ '''Here's the cam'''] (installed retarded 2 degrees), also see [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...info/110315-10/ '''this'''].
+
*[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91164N/ Roller lifters], or
+
[http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ductinfo/91164/ '''these'''].
+
*Use a Howards [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ductinfo/94402/ composite distributor gear, it will outlast a bronze gear 3 to 1.
+
  
 
====Results====
 
====Results====
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===400 SBC with Vortec heads===
 
===400 SBC with Vortec heads===
This combo is best at building a lot of torque in the 3,500 rpm range. L31 heads on a 406 will not lend themselves to top end hp, so use them where they work the best. On a 400 ci engine that will be to make biottom end and midrange torque.
+
This combo is best at building a lot of torque in the 3,500 rpm range. L31 heads on a 406 will not lend themselves to top end hp, so use them where they work the best. On a 400 ci engine that will be to make bottom end and midrange torque.
  
*Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700P/ p/n KB168-030].
+
*Keith Black [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700P/ p/n KB168-030 hypereutectic pistons].
 
*Scat Pro Stock 5.7" rods. These rods are clearanced for the cam right out of the box. Minimum clearancing may be necessary at the pan rail for the big end of the rods.
 
*Scat Pro Stock 5.7" rods. These rods are clearanced for the cam right out of the box. Minimum clearancing may be necessary at the pan rail for the big end of the rods.
  
 
6" rods can cause the wrist pin to get up into the oil ring land. This adds a little more complexity and more things to go wrong than if you were to use a 5.7" rod.  
 
6" rods can cause the wrist pin to get up into the oil ring land. This adds a little more complexity and more things to go wrong than if you were to use a 5.7" rod.  
  
With nominal +/- 66cc heads (production head combustion chamber volumes are often larger than published data), these 22cc D-cup pistons will produce 9.6:1 static compression ratio. An added benefit is the tall 1.433" compression height, meaning less block deck to cut off to reach a target squish of 0.035" to 0.045".
+
With nominal +/- 66cc heads (production head combustion chamber volumes are often larger than published data), these [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030/ 22cc D-cup pistons] will produce 9.6:1 static compression ratio. An added benefit is the tall 1.433" compression height, meaning less block deck to cut off to reach a target squish of 0.035" to 0.045".
  
*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030/
+
Besides boring and honing, machine shop work will include align honing the main bearing bores and cutting the block decks square and to the proper deck height to work with the piston compression height and gasket thickness to set the squish.  
  
Machining operations to the block, besides the boring and honing to +0.030 oversize, will include align honing the main bearing bores and cutting the block decks to square and to the proper block deck height to work with the piston deck height and gasket thickness to set the squish. Stock block deck height is +/- 9.025". The height of your stack of parts will be 1.875" for the crank throw radius, 5.700" for the connecting rod center to center and 1.433" for the piston compression height, for a total of 9.008". If we use a gasket thickness of 0.039"/0.040", then we will have to cut the block decks 0.017" to reach a zero deck. This will put the squish at 0.039" or 0.040", depending on the head gasket used. Decking the block will also insure that the block decks on all four corners of the block are the same distance from the main bearing centerline, meaning that static compression ratio will be closer to equal across all cylinders and will also contribute to the heads and intake manifold lining up and sealing the way they're supposed to. Thinner shim head gaskets used to be available for the 400, but not any longer. Some fellows have used 350 shims and drilled them for steam holes, but the bore of the gasket is iffy with the larger 400 bore. If you get any of that thin shim out into the cylinder/chamber at all and it glows hot, it could be a potential trouble spot for pre-ignition/detonation. Better to use a composition gasket that is engineered for the purpose and cut the decks accordingly. Speaking of steam holes, the heads will have to be drilled for them. Here's the tutorial....
+
Stock block deck height is +/- 9.025". The height of your stack of parts will be 1.875" for the crank throw radius, 5.700" for the connecting rod center to center and 1.433" for the piston compression height, for a total of 9.008". Using a gasket thickness of 0.039"/0.040", the block decks will have to be cut 0.017" to reach a zero deck. This will put the squish at 0.039" or 0.040", depending on the head gasket used. Decking the block will also insure that the block decks on all four corners of the block are the same distance from the main bearing centerline, meaning that static compression ratio will be closer to equal across all cylinders and will also contribute to the heads and intake manifold lining up and sealing the way they're supposed to.  
  
*http://www.gregsengine.com/converting-350-heads-to-400.html
+
Thinner shim head gaskets used to be available for the 400, but not any longer. If 350 shim gaskets are drilled for steam holes, they might have a large enough bore diameter to work on the 400 block, but this has to be carefully checked to be sure there's no overhang of the gasket into the bore. If the shim gasket intrudes into the cylinder/chamber, it could be a potential cause of pre-ignition/detonation. It's better to use a composition gasket that is engineered for the purpose and cut the decks accordingly. Speaking of steam holes, the heads will have to be drilled for them. [[Drilling steam holes in smallblock Chevy heads]] has info on this procedure.
  
I'm going to waver from my usual roller tappet song and dance here and suggest a low-cost hydraulic flat tappet cam because we're going to use the stock L31 valve springs and retainers. Our rpm limit with this motor will be 5000, so we don't need to do any changes to the heads except maybe replacing the seals, unless of course if you want to pony up 60 bucks for fresh springs. Chevrolet says if you want to keep some safety margin (total of 0.050" between the 5 coils), then you should limit valve lift to 0.430". We can move into the margin a little with this low rpm motor and use a cam with 0.450" lift if we need to. I would advise against the use of an extreme energy type cam and also against the use of rockers in excess of 1.5:1 ratio in this build.  
+
This build uses a low-cost hydraulic flat tappet cam and the stock L31 valve springs and retainers. The rpm limit with this motor will be 5000, so there's no need to make any changes to the heads except maybe replacing the seals, unless there's a need for new springs. If you want to keep some safety margin (total of at least 0.050" between the 5 coils, and a safety margin for retainer-to-seal clearance), then you should limit valve lift to 0.420- 0.450". There's no need for 1.6 ratio rockers for this build, either.  
  
Crane has a cam that uses easy ramps and will fall right into the static compression ratio range we will use in this motor. #10017 has an operating range of 1800-5400. Here's the 100172 kit which includes lifters. Always buy your lifters with the camshaft....that way you know they were produced by the camshaft grinder, not some fosdick Chinese outfit....
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Crane has a cam that uses easy ramps and will fall right into the static compression ratio range we will use in this motor. #10017 has an operating range of 1800-5400. [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-100172/ '''Here's'''] the p/n 100172 kit which includes lifters. Always buy quality lifters. Get them with the cam if possible.  
  
*http://www.amazon.com/Crane-100172-...r/dp/B000CIRW8I
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Crane's description says this cam needs a 2500 converter, but with the amount of torque the engine will make down low a stock converter and a 3.50 gear will suffice. The lobe separation angle of 106 degrees will help make the bottom end torque that's needed for a stock converter and 3.5:1 range rear gears. The 0.450" lift will work with the stock springs and retainers. Be sure to use feeler gauges between the spring coils at full valve lift to insure that the springs don't stack solid. In theory, they shouldn't, but they have to be checked to be sure. Use 16-18 degrees of initial advance with an additional amount of mechanical advance to bring the total initial and mechanical to 34 degrees. That's all you need with these heads. You need more at the crank than you would with a stock cam though, for the motor to idle properly. We need to bring the idle down for use with a stock converter so we don't have to stand on the brake pedal at stoplights. See [[Hot rodding the HEI distributor]] for details on this and for using a vacuum advance.
*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-100172/
+
  
Crane's description says the cam needs a 2500 converter, but with the amount of torque we're gonna produce down low, I'd be thinkin' stock converter and a 3.50 gear. The lobe separation angle of 106 degrees will give us the bottom end bias we need and the 0.450" theoretical lift will work with our stock springs and retainers. Be sure to use feeler gauges between the spring coils at full valve lift to insure that the springs don't stack solid. In theory, they shouldn't, but theory doesn't always agree with reality. Use 16-18 degrees of ignition lead at the crank with an additional amount at the weights to bring the total initial and centrifugal to 34 degrees. That's all you need with these heads. You need more at the crank than you would with a stock cam though, for the motor to idle properly. We need to bring the idle down for use with a stock converter so we don't have to stand on the brake pedal at stoplights.  
+
To the long block, add an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold and top it off with a rebuilt [http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/carbs_access_main.shtml Edelbrock] Thunder series AVS 650 CFM manual choke carburetor, p/n 1805. Also get the Edelbrock choke cable p/n 8013.
  
OK, we have a long block. Now, let's bolt on an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold and top it off with a rebuilt Edelbrock Thunder series AVS 650 CFM, manual choke carburetor #1805. Also get the Edelbrock choke cable #8013.
+
Mount a 14" x 4" air filter on top. Stack two 14 x 2's if you can't find a 4" thick element. This (and any) motor needs to breathe. Bolt on a pair of long-tube 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" headers and connect the two sides of the exhaust system by using either an X or an H pipe right after the collectors. Use the mufflers of your choice.  
  
*http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive...c/thunder.shtml
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====Results====
 
+
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
Mount a 14" x 4" air filter on top. Stack two 14 x 2's if you can't find a 4" thick element. This motor needs to breathe. Speaking of that, bolt on a pair of equal-length, long-tube 1 3/4" headers and fashion either an X or an H pipe right after the collectors. Mufflers of your choice, but run the pipes to the rear of the car. Nothing is more "trailer park" than terminating the pipes under the car  .
+
 
+
*RPM HP TQ
+
 
*1500 122 426
 
*1500 122 426
 
*2000 174 457
 
*2000 174 457
Line 284: Line 273:
 
*5000 373 392
 
*5000 373 392
 
*5500 326 311
 
*5500 326 311
 +
 
There you have it boys and girls, a tire-shredding motor with a "flat-as-a-table" torque curve and a cam that will have a slightly rough idle so the OP can pose cool down at the Sonic Drive-In.
 
There you have it boys and girls, a tire-shredding motor with a "flat-as-a-table" torque curve and a cam that will have a slightly rough idle so the OP can pose cool down at the Sonic Drive-In.
  
The OP should read this tutorial over as many times as it takes to make good sense of it and understand completely what it says......
+
When using a flat tappet cam, break in is ''uber'' important. Read up on what to do and how to do it [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Camshaft_install_tips_and_tricks '''here'''].
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...tips_and_tricks
+
 
+
 
+
*Cheapo to build, cheap gas 350 street motor....
+
*These pistons
+
 
+
*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB142-030/
+
 
+
*This cam
+
 
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*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL112011-11/
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+
*L31 heads from a boneyard, casting # 12558062 or 10239906. Magnaflux for cracks. Fit new STOCK springs and seals. Make certain seals are *fully seated on the guide boss by tapping them with a socket and small hammer. The stock springs will work well with the mild cam and will *not pull the rocker studs out of the heads. Doesn't matter whether the heads have hard inserts in the exhaust or induction hardened seats, *either way will work. Same casting, both styles flow the same. Give 'em a good valve job and otherwise leave 'em alone. Use the rail rockers *that came on the heads stock.
+
 
+
*Align-hone the main bearing bores in the block and cut the block decks for 9.015" block deck height, referenced off the main bearing bore so *that you know the block deck height is equal on all four corners. This will insure that the heads sit level and flat on the deck and that *the intake manifold will sit square to the heads with no gaps to cause an internal or external vacuum leak. Use GM head gasket #10105117. *Static compression ratio will be 9.1:1 and squish will be 0.042". Use Edelbrock #7116 Performer RPM intake manifold. 600 carb is all you'll *need.
+
 
+
*Makes 365 hp @ 5000 rpm with a double torque peak of 420 ft/lbs @3500 and 4000. Should make this power on crummy cat-pea pump gas without *detonation and make a real nice daily driver motor.
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*Cam begins making power at 1200, so it's your call whether or not you need a looser converter. If I did anything at all with this combo, it *would be a mild 2000 stall unit just so I didn't have to contend with the car creeping at stoplights and also to get up into the 1500 rpm *low range of the intake manifold when the light turns green.
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+
  
 +
===350 SBC- Cheap to build/regular fuel street motor===
 +
*[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB142-030/ These pistons]
 +
*[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL112011-11/ This cam]
 +
*[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Vortec_L31_cylinder_head '''Vortec L31 heads'''] from a boneyard, casting number 12558062 or 10239906. Magnaflux for cracks. Fit new stock or equivalent springs and seals. Make certain seals are fully seated on the guide boss by tapping them with a socket and small hammer.
 +
*The stock springs will work well with the mild cam and will not pull the rocker studs out of the heads. Doesn't matter whether the heads have hard inserts in the exhaust or induction hardened seats, either will work. Same casting, both styles flow the same. Give them a three angle valve job and backcut the valves if they're not already done. Use the self aligning stock rockers that came on the heads.
 +
*Align hone the main bearing bores in the block and cut the block decks for 9.015" block deck height, referenced off the main bearing bore so that you know the block deck height is equal on all four corners. This will insure that the heads sit level and flat on the deck and that the intake manifold will sit square to the heads with no gaps to cause a vacuum leak. Use GM head gasket #10105117 or equivalent.
 +
*Static compression ratio will be 9.1:1 and squish will be 0.042". Use Edelbrock p/n 7116 Performer RPM intake manifold. A 600cfm carb is all that's needed.
 +
*Makes 365 hp @ 5000 rpm with a double torque peak of 420 ft/lbs @ 3500 and 4000 rpm. Should make this power on regular pump gas without detonation and make for a real nice daily driver motor.
 +
*The cam begins making power at 1200 rpm, so there's little need for a looser converter. A 2000 stall converter would be all that wouold be needed to keep the car from creeping at stoplights and also to get up into the 1500 rpm bottom range of the intake manifold at the hit of the throttle.
  
 +
==Comp Cams free simulation program==
 +
*[http://www.compcams.com/camquest/default.asp Camquest], Comp Cams engine simulation program
  
 
==Resources==
 
==Resources==
*[[Valve spring installed height]]
+
*[[Valve spring tech]]
 
*[[Valve train geometry]]
 
*[[Valve train geometry]]
 
*[[Valve train points to check]]
 
*[[Valve train points to check]]
Line 318: Line 299:
 
*[[Drilling steam holes in smallblock Chevy heads]]
 
*[[Drilling steam holes in smallblock Chevy heads]]
 
*[[Camshaft install tips and tricks]]
 
*[[Camshaft install tips and tricks]]
*[[Computer dyno simulation and engine building software]]
+
*[[Computer dyno simulation and engine building software]]<br>
 +
{{!}}Return to [[DynoSim combinations#350 SBC L31 heads|'''''350 SBC L31 heads''''']]
 +
 
 
[[Category:General hotrodding]]
 
[[Category:General hotrodding]]
 
[[Category:Engine]]
 
[[Category:Engine]]

Latest revision as of 04:02, 10 March 2016

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