Editing Camshaft install tips and tricks (section)
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===Cleaning=== '''1. Failure to remove all rust-preventative from cam and lifters with solvent once you get them home.''' This advice does not include removing coatings applied at the factory such as phosphates. It is only suggesting to remove rust-preventative grease that may or may not have been applied to the cam/lifters to prevent rust in storage. This grease will not have the extreme pressure characteristics that Molybdenum Disulphide has and should be removed so that MD can be applied properly. MD is the black, tar-like extreme-pressure grease that is recommended by some camshaft manufacturers to be applied to the lifter crowns/cam lobes for initial flat tappet camshaft break-in. '''2. Failure to wash the cam and lifters with hot soapy water to remove the remainder of rust-preventative not removed with solvent.''' Caution: wash only the crown of the lifters: the very bottom of the lifter where it contacts the camshaft lobe. Do not allow water to get into the interior of the lifter body. Be very careful here if the lifter has an oiling hole that has been EDM'd into the crown to provide oil from the interior of the lifter body to the camshaft lobe. Before applying molybdenum disulphide, dry the cam and lifter crowns thoroughly with hot air from a hot air gun or hair dryer, to remove all traces of moisture. Do not use any abrasive materials such as Scotch-Brite pads or sandpaper of any kind to accomplish these solvent and soap cleaning operations. Use only soft, clean rags. The camshaft is cleaned so that rust-preventative oils and greases can be completely removed. If left on the camshaft, such substances might hinder the penetration of an extreme pressure lubricant such as molybdenum disulphide. '''3. Failure to properly massage an extreme pressure lubricant such as molybdenum disulphide into the pores of the metal on all lobes and lifter faces.''' Molybdenum disulphide will actually bond with the metal and give maximum protection to the lifter crown/lobe. Use the 'moly' lube on the distributor gear, cam lobes and the lifter foot that contacts the lobe only- '''not''' the bearing journals, and '''not''' the sides of the lifters. Engine oil can be used on the lifter bores and lifter sides, and the pushrod cups of the lifters. [[File:Zddplus.jpg|thumb|150px|ZDDPlus motor oil additive]] '''4. Failure to use an extreme pressure lubricant additive in the engine oil for camshaft break-in.''' There are many different products for facilitating valid cam break-in. Each cam manufacturer has their own specific product to facilitate valid cam break-in. The aftermarket has also come to our rescue with many different formulations of break in oil and oil additives containing zinc dialkyldithiophosphates (ZDDP). Most ZDDP additives recommend a specific quantity in the oil for break-in, and then half that amount for each subsequent oil change. Yes, it is possible to get too much ZDDP in the oil and generate spalling of the cam lobes. So do your research. And when in doubt, read the directions! ;ZDDP resources *[http://www.zddplus.com/ ZDDPlus.com] (includes various tech briefs) *[http://www.sfrcorp.com/product/sfr-100-petroleum-oil-fortifier/ SFR 100 Oil Fortifier] *[http://www.zddplus.com/ZDDPlus%20MSDS.pdf ZDDPlus MSDS] *[http://www.zddpforum.com/forum/ ZDDP forum] <br style="clear:both"/> It is a very good idea to change the oil and filter after the initial cam break in period. Use another dose of ZDDP. This oil and filter can remain for the next 500 miles. After that, change the oil and filter again. Add ZDDP unless the motor oil that's being used contains sufficient quantities for a flat tappet engine. Resume a normal maintenance routine after the first 500 miles.
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