Bulletproof cooling system
(→What You Put In Your Cooling System) |
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Now, you will have a radiator that will cool anything and you still have the stock attachment of the stubs to the recipient vehicle so you can use simple hand tools to disassemble the whole mess later if you have to. It'll all come out as one piece -- because it is one piece. | Now, you will have a radiator that will cool anything and you still have the stock attachment of the stubs to the recipient vehicle so you can use simple hand tools to disassemble the whole mess later if you have to. It'll all come out as one piece -- because it is one piece. | ||
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| + | == Directing Air Flow == | ||
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| + | This is one of the most important points of engine cooling and heat disbursal, moving the air through the radiator. In order for cooling to take place, the air MUST move through the radiator fins and by way of convection the cooler air will remove the heat from the engine coolant to the outside air flow. For this to happen, the frontal area of the vehicle must be clear and the entering air must not be blocked. The radiator fins must be clean, clear and unblocked by mechanical damage, i.e. folded over fins, plugged by bugs and dirt. The air MUST pass through the radiator, NOT OVER OR AROUND IT. Seal up hood to rad cradle air spaces with sheet metal or rubber sheeting. The fan shroud should contain 90% of the fan blade and the edges should be sealed to the contours of the radiator for maximum suction by the fan. Hot exhausted air should have an escape route out of the engine compartment. If it doesn't make louvers or outside air scoops. Direct air to pass over the engine and exhaust manifolds or headers and out the bottom and sides away from the passenger compartment. Don't remove the rubber skirts from the inner wheel wells over the suspension, they are there for a reason. | ||
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| + | If you have a external trans cooler in front of the radiator and also have a high stall torque converter, your fluid temperature in the trans cooler will pre-heat the incoming air to the radiator. If this is the case, try relocating the trans cooler to another location. | ||
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| + | Hood removal will cause buffeting of air in the engine compartment and result in uneven pressure. Removal of side panels on three piece hoods will exhaust air better in some cases. Louvers in hoods and side panels are a god-send to ventilating hot air from the engine compartment. | ||
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| + | All air in front of the rad cradle is positive flow, air after the rad cradle is negative flow in a driving automobile. In order for that arrangement to continue, air must be evacuated from the engine compartment. When the vehicle is at a standstill, the engine fan provides flow from positive to negative and cools the engine compartment. The fan should have the ability to push/pull enough air to keep the temperature within operating range of 160 to 210 degrees. | ||
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| + | If you are at the drags and need to cool down between rounds, run your electric water pump and fan along with a portable squirrel cage fan to bring down the temperature. | ||
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| + | == Electric Water Pumps VS Mechanical Water Pumps == | ||
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| + | Electric water pumps are constant flow pumps that push X amount of gals of water per minute, no matter what the rpm of the engine is. Mechanical water pumps are variable speed pumps which have decreased flow at idle and increased flow at higher speeds WITH LIMITATIONS. The limitations are; water will slip and cause air cavitation. Mechanical pumps will only operate while the engine is running and electric pumps operation is user selectable. | ||
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==Serpentine cross-flow radiators== | ==Serpentine cross-flow radiators== | ||
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