Bulletproof cooling system
(→Swapping a core support and matching radiator into a recipient vehicle: add text) |
(→Bulletproof cooling system tips) |
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*Ensure that there is adequate airflow from the engine compartment to allow the exit of the air drawn into the compartment. In custom applications this might require the removal or surgery of inner fender panels or using spacers to raise the hood of the car up an inch or two at the back. | *Ensure that there is adequate airflow from the engine compartment to allow the exit of the air drawn into the compartment. In custom applications this might require the removal or surgery of inner fender panels or using spacers to raise the hood of the car up an inch or two at the back. | ||
*Maintain the proper coolant/water mix to prevent freezing up in winter. Water transfers heat better than coolant, but some coolant must be used to prevent freezing. Using a 50/50 mix of coolant/water is a necessity for motors using aluminum parts. Plain water will turn aluminum into oatmeal. | *Maintain the proper coolant/water mix to prevent freezing up in winter. Water transfers heat better than coolant, but some coolant must be used to prevent freezing. Using a 50/50 mix of coolant/water is a necessity for motors using aluminum parts. Plain water will turn aluminum into oatmeal. | ||
| − | *Before installing the water pump, grasp the impeller with one hand and the drive hub with the other and twist to make sure the impeller is tight on the drive shaft. | + | *Before installing the water pump, grasp the impeller with one hand and the drive hub with the other and twist to make sure the impeller is tight on the drive shaft. If the driveshaft is not spinning the impeller, no water is being moved through the motor. This problem can be the source of great frustration and is hard to find unless you know to look for it when installing the pump. |
*Although it may not be necessary, the concept of a "water pump conversion disc" can be researched. Flow Kooler originally marketed flat aluminum discs to be riveted to the backside of the stamped steel impeller of the water pump. With an iron impeller, a steel disc could be welded or brazed onto the impeller. Such a disc wouldn't be that difficult to make. Space the water pump backing plate back farther with a couple of gaskets to prevent interference of the rivet heads on the backing plate if riveting a disc to a stamped steel impeller. More info: [http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11774 brazing cast iron], [http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BRA%2D4375%2D07&autoview=sku Flow Kooler water pump conversion discs]. This disc could make an appreciable difference in the flow of water at engine speeds under 3,000 RPM. On the other hand, Howard Stewart of Stewart Components (the guy with the water pump dyno), says that these discs have little to no effect. | *Although it may not be necessary, the concept of a "water pump conversion disc" can be researched. Flow Kooler originally marketed flat aluminum discs to be riveted to the backside of the stamped steel impeller of the water pump. With an iron impeller, a steel disc could be welded or brazed onto the impeller. Such a disc wouldn't be that difficult to make. Space the water pump backing plate back farther with a couple of gaskets to prevent interference of the rivet heads on the backing plate if riveting a disc to a stamped steel impeller. More info: [http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11774 brazing cast iron], [http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BRA%2D4375%2D07&autoview=sku Flow Kooler water pump conversion discs]. This disc could make an appreciable difference in the flow of water at engine speeds under 3,000 RPM. On the other hand, Howard Stewart of Stewart Components (the guy with the water pump dyno), says that these discs have little to no effect. | ||
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