Bulletproof cooling system

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Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system’s ability to absorb, transport and dissipate heat. Some causes of overheating are:
 
Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system’s ability to absorb, transport and dissipate heat. Some causes of overheating are:
  
*Low coolant level, loss of coolant, or insufficient coolant capacity.
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*Low coolant level, loss of coolant, or insufficient coolant capacity
*Buildup of deposits that cause poor conduction of heat into the cooling system.
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*Buildup of deposits that cause poor conduction of heat into the cooling system
*A thermostat that won't open.
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*A thermostat that won't open
*Poor airflow through the radiator.
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*Poor airflow through the radiator
*Damaged or worn fan clutch, or broken fan.
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*Damaged or worn fan clutch, or broken fan
 
*Collapsed radiator hose
 
*Collapsed radiator hose
*Loose or defective water pump impeller.
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*Loose or defective water pump impeller
*Defective radiator cap.
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*Defective radiator cap
 
*Late ignition timing
 
*Late ignition timing
  
 
==Bulletproof cooling system tips==
 
==Bulletproof cooling system tips==
 
*Clogging and leaks are two of the most common radiator problems. Bugs, dirt, and debris can block airflow, and limit the radiator's heat-dissipating characteristics. Thus, it's recommended to "back flush" the radiator and cooling system when changing coolant. This helps to clean out deposits, and flushes the remaining coolant from the engine block. You can back flush the radiator by running water through it in the opposite direction of regular flow. Typically, after draining the radiator a t-fitting can be installed in the heater inlet hose. This fitting gets connected to a pressurized water hose, and the system is reverse flushed. Do this until clean water emerges.
 
*Clogging and leaks are two of the most common radiator problems. Bugs, dirt, and debris can block airflow, and limit the radiator's heat-dissipating characteristics. Thus, it's recommended to "back flush" the radiator and cooling system when changing coolant. This helps to clean out deposits, and flushes the remaining coolant from the engine block. You can back flush the radiator by running water through it in the opposite direction of regular flow. Typically, after draining the radiator a t-fitting can be installed in the heater inlet hose. This fitting gets connected to a pressurized water hose, and the system is reverse flushed. Do this until clean water emerges.
*You should use a radiator at least as large as the one that was originally used to cool the engine (not the car) from the factory, and with the same or more radiator cores. However, it's important to note that additional rows of radiators don't add a proportional amount of cooling: a 3-row radiator does not offer 50% more cooling than a 2-row radiator. This is because subsequent rows receive warm air from the rows in front of them. However, adding radiator frontal area IS proportional, but this usually causes fitment issues, so additional rows are generally the only viable choice.
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*A rough guide is to use a radiator at least as large as the one that was originally used to cool the engine, with the same or more radiator cores. However, it's important to note that additional rows don't add a proportional amount of cooling, i.e. a 3-row radiator does not necessarily offer 50% more cooling than a 2-row radiator. This is because subsequent rows receive warm air from the rows in front of them. However, adding radiator frontal area IS proportional, but this usually causes fitment issues, so additional rows are generally the only viable choice. Also the radiator design and materials can have an affect on the radiator efficiency; a larger radiator is not necessarily a better radiator.  
 
*Oftentimes, the cheapest and most bulletproof way is to use the largest radiator that will fit, along with the shroud that was designed for the radiator from the factory and the designated steel fan and viscous drive assembly for same. ''(confirm and expand)''
 
*Oftentimes, the cheapest and most bulletproof way is to use the largest radiator that will fit, along with the shroud that was designed for the radiator from the factory and the designated steel fan and viscous drive assembly for same. ''(confirm and expand)''
 
*Use a full shroud, with the radiator positioned so that the fan blades are half-in and half-out of the shroud hole ''(confirm and expand)'', and no more than 1" of clearance between the shroud and the fan blade tips. (Just enough to prevent interference when the motor rocks on its rubber mounts).
 
*Use a full shroud, with the radiator positioned so that the fan blades are half-in and half-out of the shroud hole ''(confirm and expand)'', and no more than 1" of clearance between the shroud and the fan blade tips. (Just enough to prevent interference when the motor rocks on its rubber mounts).

Revision as of 12:30, 30 March 2012

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