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| | ==Bulletproof cooling system tips== | | ==Bulletproof cooling system tips== |
| | *Clogging and leaks are two of the most common radiator problems. Bugs, dirt, and debris can block airflow, and limit the radiator's heat-dissipating characteristics. Thus, it's recommended to "backflush" the radiator and cooling system when changing coolant. This helps to clean out deposits, and flushes the remaining coolant from the engine block. You can backflush the radiator by running water through it in the opposite direction of regular flow. Typically, after draining the radiator, a t-fitting can be installed in the heater inlet hose. This fitting gets connected to a pressurized water hose, and the system is reverse flushed. Do this until clean water emerges. | | *Clogging and leaks are two of the most common radiator problems. Bugs, dirt, and debris can block airflow, and limit the radiator's heat-dissipating characteristics. Thus, it's recommended to "backflush" the radiator and cooling system when changing coolant. This helps to clean out deposits, and flushes the remaining coolant from the engine block. You can backflush the radiator by running water through it in the opposite direction of regular flow. Typically, after draining the radiator, a t-fitting can be installed in the heater inlet hose. This fitting gets connected to a pressurized water hose, and the system is reverse flushed. Do this until clean water emerges. |
| − | *You should use a radiator at least as large as the one that was originally used to cool the engine (not the car) from the factory, and with the same or more radiator cores. However, it's important to note that additional rows of radiators don't add a proportional amount of cooling: a 3-row radiator does not offer 50% more cooling than a 2-row. This is because subsequent rows receive warm air from the rows in front of them. However, adding radiator frontal area IS proportional, but this usually causes fitment issues, so additional rows are generally the only viable choice.
| + | This is usually true until you get to 3.55 gears and numerically higher, then 1 to 1 works better. Most all 1960's muscle cars are 1 to 1. Pump speeds over 4200 sustained cause cavitation. Nascar is a good example with roughly 3.5" crank pulleys and 8" waterpump pulleys for their 9200 rpm engines''(confirm)'' |
| − | *Oftentimes, the cheapest and most bulletproof way is to use the largest radiator that will fit, along with the shroud that was designed for the radiator from the factory and the designated steel fan and viscous drive assembly for same. ''(confirm and expand)''
| + | Motors using EFI induction should be operated at the temperature specified by the factory for that particular motor to prevent false input to the computer and consequent problems. ''(confirm and expand)'' The sensor pill goes toward the motor. |
| − | *Use a full shroud, with the radiator positioned so that the fan blades are half-in and half-out of the shroud hole ''(confirm and expand)'', and no more than 1" of clearance between the shroud and the fan blade tips. (Just enough to prevent intervention when the motor rocks on its rubber mounts).
| + | More info: [http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11774 brazing cast iron], [http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BRA%2D4375%2D07&autoview=sku Flow Kooler water pump conversion discs]. This disc should make an appreciable difference in the flow of water at engine speeds under 3,000 RPMs. On the other hand, Howard Stewart of Stewart Components (the guy with the water pump dyno), says that the disc's have little to no effect. |
| − | *Fan recommendations: OEM 18 inch, 7-blade steel fan with 2" to 2 3/4" pitch. Pitch of a fan can be measured by laying the fan down on a flat surface and measuring from the flat surface to the edge of the fan blade. Fans that are relatively flat (such as a flex fan) won't move enough air at idle and low engine rpm's to do the job properly.
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| − | *Thermostatically controlled fan clutch.
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| − | *Water pump and crankshaft pulleys sized according to what was on the engine from the factory. On a street motor, shoot for 1.2 to 1.3 times crank speed for pump pulley speed. This is usually true until you get to 3.55 gears and numerically higher, then 1 to 1 works better. Most all 1960's muscle cars are 1 to 1. Pump speeds over 4200 sustained cause cavitation. Nascar is a good example with roughly 3.5" crank pulleys and 8" waterpump pulleys for their 9200 rpm engines''(confirm)''
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| − | *On a carbureted motor, most of us use a 180 degree thermostat, although a little hotter thermostat (190-195) may make the motor more responsive and add a little fuel mileage. It may also help to burn off some of the by-products of operation, such as moisture and acids which form and get into the oil. Motors using EFI induction should be operated at the temperature specified by the factory for that particular motor to prevent false input to the computer and consequent problems. ''(confirm and expand)'' The sensor pill goes toward the motor.
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| − | *Use a spiral-wound spring in the bottom radiator hose, to prevent collapse of the hose.
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| − | *Use the proper pressure cap for the radiator being used.
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| − | *Large engines can be perfectly cooled at very hot desert temperatures, without the use of electric fans, aluminum radiators, or various gimmicky cooling devices. Just use common sense and follow the suggestions in this tutorial. ''(confirm and expand)''
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| − | *Ensure that there are sufficient openings in the engine compartment to allow the exit of all the air drawn into the compartment. This might require the removal or surgery of inner fender panels or using spacers to raise the hood of the car up an inch or two at the back.
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| − | *Maintain the proper coolant/water mix to prevent freezing up in winter. Water transfers heat better than coolant, but some coolant must be used to prevent freezing. Using a 50/50 mix of coolant/water is a necessity for motors using aluminum parts. Plain water will turn aluminum into oatmeal.
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| − | *Before installing the water pump, grasp the impeller with one hand and the drive hub with the other and twist to make sure the impeller is tight on the drive shaft. Not finding this problem beforehand can make you crazy.
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| − | *Although it may not be necessary, the concept of a "water pump conversion disc" is intriguing. Flow Kooler originally marketed flat aluminum discs to rivet to the backside of the stamped steel impeller in the pump. With an iron impeller, a steel disc could be welded or brazed onto the impeller. The disc wouldn't be that difficult to fab up yourself. Space the water pump backing plate back farther with a couple of gaskets to prevent interference of the rivet heads on the backing plate if riveting a disc to a stamped steel impeller. More info: [http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11774 brazing cast iron], [http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BRA%2D4375%2D07&autoview=sku Flow Kooler water pump conversion discs]. This disc should make an appreciable difference in the flow of water at engine speeds under 3,000 RPMs. On the other hand, Howard Stewart of Stewart Components (the guy with the water pump dyno), says that the disc's have little to no effect.
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| | ==Swapping a core support and matching radiator into a recipient vehicle== | | ==Swapping a core support and matching radiator into a recipient vehicle== |
| − | In doing this swap, you will have to re-install the recipient vehicle's hood latch onto the donor core support in the proper location. Make up a fixture beforehand from scrap metal that bolts to the fender bolts or some other location that will be the same after the core support swap, and will show the proper location for the latch. This is a must-do when doing a frame or clip swap.
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| | ===Recommended donor vehicles=== | | ===Recommended donor vehicles=== |
| | *'76 Cadillac Fleetwood or Eldorado. For example: [http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part=1976+CADILLAC+FLEETWOOD++%2D+8%2E2+liter+V8+RADIATOR+Name+Brand+Replacement&part_id=1357&aaia_id=1026582 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 8.2 liter V8 radiator]. | | *'76 Cadillac Fleetwood or Eldorado. For example: [http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part=1976+CADILLAC+FLEETWOOD++%2D+8%2E2+liter+V8+RADIATOR+Name+Brand+Replacement&part_id=1357&aaia_id=1026582 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 8.2 liter V8 radiator]. |
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| | ===Cadillac radiator swap=== | | ===Cadillac radiator swap=== |
| − | Any of the Fleetwoods or Eldorados from '70 to '76 with a 472 or 500 will work, but the '76's used the 500 inch motor for sure.
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| − | Call around and find a boneyard that still has the fan, shroud and core support. You'll be using a new radiator and viscous drive fan clutch to bulletproof your installation. Make yourself a memo of the exact year and model the pieces came from so you can match up the parts.
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| − | You may or may not have to alter the fan clutch hub where it bolts to the water pump/pulley. Usually, the holes are slotted so you can make it work. If not, some minor surgery on the hub with a rat-tail file will do the trick. With the motor in the vehicle and finalized for position, bolt the fan clutch and fan to the water pump. Mount the Cadillac radiator and shroud to the Cadillac core support.
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| − | The Cadillac core support will probably be longer side to side than the stock one in the recipient vehicle. Retain the outer pieces of the recipient vehicle support where it bolts into the body and cut the middle part of the recipient vehicle support out with a reciprocating saw, leaving a few inches on each side. Then, measure the opening between the two stubs that are still bolted to the recipient vehicle and cut the Cadillac support to fit into this opening. It's better to leave a little more sheet metal on the Cadillac support until you determine the correct position of the fan where it engages the shroud opening. Then, position the Cadillac support with radiator and shroud attached up to the fan, equalizing the distance between the fan blade tips and the inner circumference of the shroud all around. Move the shroud around the fan until you have the fan blades halfway in and halfway out of the shroud opening. Normally, you'll have to tilt the top of the radiator/shroud back a little at the top to match the fan angle because the motor sits in the recipient vehicle on a rearward tilt. If you need a little more front to rear clearance for mounting the support, you can position the fan blades 2/3 in and 1/3 out of the shroud opening. A little further in is OK, as long as the fan clutch is at least 1" from the radiator core material. A little further out is not OK.
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| − | With that accomplished, simply attach the middle piece of the Cadillac support to the stubs of the recipient vehicle support. Use whatever pieces of sheet metal or whatever that you have to in order to make the connection. The Cadillac support may end up sitting forward of the stubs or a little behind them or it might fall exactly into place and you'll have very little welding to do to stitch the Cad support and the stubs together. Whatever. Just use your head and figure out how to connect the sheet metal, then MIG it in place.
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| − | Now, you will have a radiator that will cool anything and you still have the stock attachment of the stubs to the recipient vehicle so you can use simple hand tools to disassemble the whole mess later if you have to. It'll all come out as one piece -- because it is one piece.
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| | This swap may not be for everyone, you will have to judge that for yourself. Consideration should be given to the weight of the system when at full capacity, this could mean as much as 25 to 50 extra pounds on the front end. This swap does give you valuable information on limits of fan installation and mounting of core. | | This swap may not be for everyone, you will have to judge that for yourself. Consideration should be given to the weight of the system when at full capacity, this could mean as much as 25 to 50 extra pounds on the front end. This swap does give you valuable information on limits of fan installation and mounting of core. |
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| | ===400 SB Chevy engines=== | | ===400 SB Chevy engines=== |
| − | 400 small block chevys are a special case. The cylinder barrels are siamesed in the block so that no cooling water can pass between them. This creates hot spots or "steam pockets" in the block at lower engine rpm's which conceivably could create a spot at the top of the cylinder that is hot enough to create pre-ignition. As rpm's increase, there is enough turbulence in the cooling system to wash these steam pockets away. GM engineers cured the problem by drilling holes into the cylinder heads to relieve this pressure and allow water to flow from the block up into the heads. That's all fine and dandy if you are using a 400 head on a 400 block because the heads are drilled. But, when using any other kind of head on the 400 block, there are usually no steam holes in the heads unless you are buying new heads and specify to the manufacturer of the heads that you want steam holes drilled into them before delivery. Alternately, if you already have the heads, you can have your machine shop drill the holes or you can drill them yourself if you have proper equipment. See: http://www.gregsengine.com/350to400.htm.
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| | ==See also== | | ==See also== |
| | *[http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/water-temp-gauge.shtml Checking your water temperature gauge] | | *[http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/water-temp-gauge.shtml Checking your water temperature gauge] |
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