Bulletproof cooling system

Jump to: navigation, search
(Bulletproof cooling system tips)
(Bulletproof cooling system tips)
Line 23: Line 23:
 
*The most common problems radiators fall prey to are clogging (both internal and external) and leaks. Dirt, bugs and debris can block airflow through the core and reduce the radiator’s ability to dissipate heat. Internal corrosion and an accumulation of deposits can likewise inhibit coolant circulation and reduce cooling. “Back flushing” the radiator and cooling system when changing coolant is highly recommended to dislodge accumulated deposits and to flush the remaining coolant from the engine block. Back flushing is running water back through the radiator and engine in the opposite direction to which it normally flows. After the coolant has been drained from the radiator, a T-fitting is installed in the heater inlet hose. The fitting is then connected to a pressurized water hose or power flusher. The water is turned on and the system is reverse flushed. The flushing should be continued until only clean water emerges from the radiator. Cleaning chemicals may also be used to remove accumulated deposits from the system.  
 
*The most common problems radiators fall prey to are clogging (both internal and external) and leaks. Dirt, bugs and debris can block airflow through the core and reduce the radiator’s ability to dissipate heat. Internal corrosion and an accumulation of deposits can likewise inhibit coolant circulation and reduce cooling. “Back flushing” the radiator and cooling system when changing coolant is highly recommended to dislodge accumulated deposits and to flush the remaining coolant from the engine block. Back flushing is running water back through the radiator and engine in the opposite direction to which it normally flows. After the coolant has been drained from the radiator, a T-fitting is installed in the heater inlet hose. The fitting is then connected to a pressurized water hose or power flusher. The water is turned on and the system is reverse flushed. The flushing should be continued until only clean water emerges from the radiator. Cleaning chemicals may also be used to remove accumulated deposits from the system.  
 
*Use a radiator of at least the same square inch area that was used originally to cool the engine from the factory. '''The engine''', not the car.
 
*Use a radiator of at least the same square inch area that was used originally to cool the engine from the factory. '''The engine''', not the car.
 +
* Use a "high bypass" thermostat rather than a "standard" one.  The standard thermostat flows very little coolant even when temperature is above it's open mode and full flow is active.  Look at a standard and high bypass and see the huge difference in volume of flow.  The high bypass may flow as much coolant when closed as the standard does when open.  In my experience this one factor has more influence on cooling than all others combined.
 
*Use a radiator with the same or more radiator cores that were used originally to cool the engine from the factory. Two cores will cool most motors, although in special towing cases or applications where the motor is put under considerable load for periods of time, a three core unit may be a better choice.  ''(confirm and expand)''. Once again, '''the engine''', not the car.  Its important to note that additional rows of radiators don't add a proportional amount of cooling efficiency.  For instance, going from a 2-row to a 3-row doesn't increase the cooling efficiency by 50% because the subsequent rows are receiving warm air from the rows in front.  Adding radiator frontal area IS proportional, but since the radiator size is mostly fixed because of what fits in the car, additional rows are often the only choice.
 
*Use a radiator with the same or more radiator cores that were used originally to cool the engine from the factory. Two cores will cool most motors, although in special towing cases or applications where the motor is put under considerable load for periods of time, a three core unit may be a better choice.  ''(confirm and expand)''. Once again, '''the engine''', not the car.  Its important to note that additional rows of radiators don't add a proportional amount of cooling efficiency.  For instance, going from a 2-row to a 3-row doesn't increase the cooling efficiency by 50% because the subsequent rows are receiving warm air from the rows in front.  Adding radiator frontal area IS proportional, but since the radiator size is mostly fixed because of what fits in the car, additional rows are often the only choice.
 
*In most cases, use a radiator of copper and brass construction ''(confirm and expand)''. While pure copper has far superior thermal conductivity to aluminum, the aluminum will contain pressure in more extreme shapes.  What this means is that an aluminum radiator can be made with flatter tubes.  That means for the same given flow area, an aluminum radiator's tubes have greater surface area contact with the coolant.  The metals copper and brass are more thermally conductive, but the greater freedom of design that is possible with aluminum makes them a tiny fraction more efficient despite the alloy's poorer conductivity.
 
*In most cases, use a radiator of copper and brass construction ''(confirm and expand)''. While pure copper has far superior thermal conductivity to aluminum, the aluminum will contain pressure in more extreme shapes.  What this means is that an aluminum radiator can be made with flatter tubes.  That means for the same given flow area, an aluminum radiator's tubes have greater surface area contact with the coolant.  The metals copper and brass are more thermally conductive, but the greater freedom of design that is possible with aluminum makes them a tiny fraction more efficient despite the alloy's poorer conductivity.

Revision as of 13:13, 22 January 2009

Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Categories
Toolbox