Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft
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- remove all burrs, sharp edges, make it look nice outside (casting) and inside | - remove all burrs, sharp edges, make it look nice outside (casting) and inside | ||
- Port matching | - Port matching | ||
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| + | == TECH STUFF ABOUT THE 1994 4.3l V6 == | ||
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| + | Apart from having many similarities with the small block there is a couple of things that are not well documented in the forums about this engines more advanced, more modern features. | ||
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| + | '''HEADS''' | ||
| + | Nothing particular there. Stamped rockers, pinched nuts on pressed studs. This will most probably be one of the mods. | ||
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| + | '''BLOCK''' | ||
| + | Nothing particular there. A couple of threaded holes are not used according to the car. | ||
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| + | '''OIL PAN''' | ||
| + | The 4x4 has a very deep oil pan. | ||
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| + | '''CAMSHAFT''' | ||
| + | It has a hydraulic roller camshaft with the stepped nose and the retainer. This is a benefit for the build. | ||
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| + | '''LIFTERS''' | ||
| + | This has come to a surprise. It employs a plastic retainer along the full side of the lifter valley. One left, one right which bolts into the block. We'll see what to do of it. Seems a nice and easy way to keep the lifters where they belong. It has some oil holes and a lot of small fins I guess are for oil flow. | ||
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| + | I'll add more stuff as I go and discover what is particular or what differs largely from a standard pre 1988 small block. | ||
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Think of how you can center the rod in the bore, tap it with an adequate tool to move down and once it slides out (actually falls out) catch it! Have somebody help you or as was my case with the block upside down on a flat space the piston will just fall 5 cm (2 inches) and lay on the table. Put some cardboard underneath to soften the fall and catch residual oil dripping from the piston and bore. | Think of how you can center the rod in the bore, tap it with an adequate tool to move down and once it slides out (actually falls out) catch it! Have somebody help you or as was my case with the block upside down on a flat space the piston will just fall 5 cm (2 inches) and lay on the table. Put some cardboard underneath to soften the fall and catch residual oil dripping from the piston and bore. | ||
To get it out the trick is to suspend the rod with one finger from the bolt and position it in the center of the cylinder bore in order for the rod not to touch the lower skirt of the bore and get stuck. The upper portion of the rod bearing is normally still in place in the rod. It is cramped in the bore despite the 4" bore. I use the plastic hammers handle (wood) after making sure that the end is round and has no protrusions from stuff embedded in the wood. Then try to tap slightly on the piston pin bossed or if that is not possible on the rod. Another possibility would be to remove the upper rod bearing and tap it in the rods bearing location. | To get it out the trick is to suspend the rod with one finger from the bolt and position it in the center of the cylinder bore in order for the rod not to touch the lower skirt of the bore and get stuck. The upper portion of the rod bearing is normally still in place in the rod. It is cramped in the bore despite the 4" bore. I use the plastic hammers handle (wood) after making sure that the end is round and has no protrusions from stuff embedded in the wood. Then try to tap slightly on the piston pin bossed or if that is not possible on the rod. Another possibility would be to remove the upper rod bearing and tap it in the rods bearing location. | ||
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| + | Put all together in the correct location and stored the pistons with rings, pin and rod with cap, bolts and nuts assembled loosely in the boxes I had prepared. | ||
'''WARNING!''' | '''WARNING!''' | ||
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Or maybe the best advice is to ask your machine shop or take the block to the shop right away. | Or maybe the best advice is to ask your machine shop or take the block to the shop right away. | ||
| + | '''CRANK REMOVAL''' | ||
| + | By removing the crank and the main bearing caps I can put the block back upside and it will rest on the base nicely for transport. To remove the crank crack all the bolts on the caps and remove them. I again kept them in the order I have removed them from. Clean and check the bearing surface. The crank has no discolorations which is a good sign. Seems that it never overheated somewhere. The bearings show normal wear for a 120'000 miles engine. Once all the caps are off | ||
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