Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft
(→TECH STUFF ABOUT THE 1994 4.3l V6) |
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The large COMPCAMS degree wheel was a perfect assistant. The only thing I have to change is insert two thin plastic washers between the nut and the wheel in order to tighten the nut without turning the wheel again. A small pointer was quickly fabricated with a 1/2" wide strip of stainless steel sheetmetal. Makes a nice pointer and I can put the heads on without touching the pointer. | The large COMPCAMS degree wheel was a perfect assistant. The only thing I have to change is insert two thin plastic washers between the nut and the wheel in order to tighten the nut without turning the wheel again. A small pointer was quickly fabricated with a 1/2" wide strip of stainless steel sheetmetal. Makes a nice pointer and I can put the heads on without touching the pointer. | ||
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| + | === PISTONS - FINALLY THERE - TEST ASSEMBLY WITH NEW STUFF === | ||
| + | 2017-SEPT | ||
| + | It took 3 months for our custom pistons to arrive but finally unpacked the JE forged pistons. Nice stuff, flat deck with 6 cc valve reliefs. We forgot to order the offset pin so they came centered. The slapping should not be audible and when warm it shouldn't really be an issue. | ||
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| + | At 4.004" diameter they fit the OEM 4.000" bore easily. Turns out they are just a couple 1/1000s below deck. When milling the deck to equalize and get the finish for the gasket they will sit at zero deck. The distance to the valves is also o.k. Pockets are nice and may just need some radiusing on the still rather sharp edge. | ||
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| + | Next thing will be the crankshaft. | ||
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| + | === CRANKSHAFT - PREPARATIOn === | ||
| + | We have straigthened the cranksaft and in these mid September days I got a couple things done on it. Put it on the lathe and had all the oil holes chamfered. One side of these holes is normally paper thin and sharp. Just used a Dremel to radius them, then polished all the holes. | ||
| + | Next step was to cut down on all the sharp edges on the counter-weights and throws. The removal will facilitate the work with the crank (no more cutting your hands) and the overall removal of 5 grams will not hurt balance. | ||
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| + | Then got a fine equalizing stone and checked on all the dents (not from me but whoever handled the crank before was a bit careless) not to have protrusions. Then using the lathe I polished all the bearing surfaces. The end of the crank needed a bit more polishing and a second pass with a 400 grit paper to get rid of the slight pitting where the one piece seal runs. I'll have to see that the new seal does not run in that area. | ||
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| + | The next step will be to take the crank for nitriding. | ||
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