Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft

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(2016-FEB-27 - MEASURING FOR BLUEPRINTING)
(TIPS AND TRICKS)
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== TIPS AND TRICKS ==
 
== TIPS AND TRICKS ==
  
Drain the engine oil with engine hot. Or maybe place the engine close to a heat source or at the sun to heat up while draining. Maybe even a couple of days. Especially the water will still pool. By placing the engine at different angles you may drain most of it. Once the heads are off Some coolant may drain when turning the engine over from the passages in the back between block and heads and from the two located between the first and last and the middle cylinders. It is so much easier without the mess of oil and water.
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Drain the engine oil with engine hot. Or maybe place the engine close to a heat source or at the sun to heat up while draining. Maybe even a couple of days. Especially the water will still pool. By placing the engine at different angles you may drain most of it. Once the heads are off some coolant may drain when turning the engine over from the passages in the back between block and heads and from the two located between the first and last and the middle cylinders. It is so much easier without the mess of oil and water on your workplace.
  
Spray all bolts with penetration oil and let it soak. Re-spray after 30 minutes and best is to go for lunch.
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Spray all bolts with penetration oil and let it soak. Re-spray after 30 minutes or spray before heading out for lunch.
 
Spray the gasket edges e.g. TBI, Thermostat, sensors, head-gasket as well.
 
Spray the gasket edges e.g. TBI, Thermostat, sensors, head-gasket as well.
  
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Marking parts is easiest using an engraver such as one from DREMEL or others. Just got one a couple days ago for 40$ and works like a charm. Try to etch your marks in locations where they do not add a stress raiser. Where original factory markings are located could be a good spot or check on the internet or books. All machined parts which touch another part is no-no. All surfaces where a bearing is being set are no-no unless treated accordingly. Try finding spots where there is no gasket. On the heads for example is a lot of room on the intake side surface where there is no gasket.
 
Marking parts is easiest using an engraver such as one from DREMEL or others. Just got one a couple days ago for 40$ and works like a charm. Try to etch your marks in locations where they do not add a stress raiser. Where original factory markings are located could be a good spot or check on the internet or books. All machined parts which touch another part is no-no. All surfaces where a bearing is being set are no-no unless treated accordingly. Try finding spots where there is no gasket. On the heads for example is a lot of room on the intake side surface where there is no gasket.
 
Engravers stamp little craters into the metal. By sanding over it with a fine grit paper or a stone can relief the sharp craters rims and allow for a gasket to sit on the marking without leaking.
 
Engravers stamp little craters into the metal. By sanding over it with a fine grit paper or a stone can relief the sharp craters rims and allow for a gasket to sit on the marking without leaking.
 
I'm in restoration of old and historic cars. We do 12 cylinder Ferraris at the place I work and it all comes down to the finish.
 
  
 
Put an engine together in a hurry and sloppily and it will leak and wear.
 
Put an engine together in a hurry and sloppily and it will leak and wear.
  
Cleanliness is not an option but a must on the workplace. I do not assemble in the same location where I grind and sand.
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Cleanliness is not an option but a MUST on the workplace. I do not assemble in the same location where I grind and sand.
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I've disassembled a big block which has been killed because somebody had sanded the intake. The little bit of remaining grit which had not been washed out properly killed the new engine in 100 miles. After 100 miles it had used 2 quarts of oil - no leaks - but everything was scratched and scored. Result - rebuild with all new bearings, new hydraulic lifters, new pistons and rings, new valves, with a bit of luck no new valve guides and a hone on the cylinders.
  
I've disassembled a big block which has been killed by sanding the intake. The little bit of remaining grit which got not washed out properly had it killed in 100 miles. After 100 miles it had used 2 quarts of oil - no leaks - but everything was scratched and scored. Result - rebuild with all new bearings, new hydraulic lifters, new pistons and rings, new valves, with a bit of luck no new valve guides and a hone on the cylinders.
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For analysis we had it disassembled and one piston with the rings still on washed out into a glass plate with thinner. Once dried we placed it under the microscope to find a "beach". We found glass particles, sand particles of various color and the nice diamond shapes of corund. The rings had been sanded and were showing the wear normally associated with 300'000 - 400'000 miles of engine life! So any sand is a big no-no near my engines.
  
 
== ENGINE STAND ==
 
== ENGINE STAND ==

Revision as of 06:46, 20 October 2016

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