Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft
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The problem is: Then you have a monster crank able to withstand 1'200 hp in a two bolt cap block able to put out 500 at max. | The problem is: Then you have a monster crank able to withstand 1'200 hp in a two bolt cap block able to put out 500 at max. | ||
| − | So I'll have to go with the factory crank properly balanced (internal balance) which should easily withstand 300 hp. As the goal is below that number I should be fine with that. | + | So I'll have to go with the factory crank properly balanced (internal balance) which should easily withstand 300 hp. As the goal is below that number I should be fine with that. Found a crank from an older version of the engine. As the lenght's and the nose are the same we'll go and try this one. Belongs to a marine shop close by which had it available. I'll see with my machine shop once the internal parts are defined if we can balance it. That would help a lot as the bearings only need polishing. |
'''CYLINDER HEADS''' | '''CYLINDER HEADS''' | ||
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Have to check if the block needs machining at all. The deck surfaces are nice. As we have a lot of compression gain to take advantage from I can equalize the decks to match the main crank bore. The cam bore is a bit of a question mark as we can measure that only after having the engine on the mill. If possible with oversize bearings I'll adjust that one as well. | Have to check if the block needs machining at all. The deck surfaces are nice. As we have a lot of compression gain to take advantage from I can equalize the decks to match the main crank bore. The cam bore is a bit of a question mark as we can measure that only after having the engine on the mill. If possible with oversize bearings I'll adjust that one as well. | ||
| − | The big question now is if to use aftermarket billet main caps and drill the engine block now for a 4 bolt cap pattern or save that money for the next build. | + | The block turned out to be quite nice. Decks are very straight may need machining just a couple hundredth's or so - talking in mm that means just a couple thousandth's in inches. Turned out that the deck height was 9.025" at my reference point at #1 cyl. |
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| + | The bores are the same. They just need honing 0.001" over which is about 0.02 mm. This with forged pistons at 4.000" will give just the right clearance and save me money. | ||
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| + | The big question now is if to use aftermarket billet main caps and drill the engine block now for a 4 bolt cap pattern or save that money for the next build. The answer to this is "no", not at this time. The next build may include this modification but aiming at some 250 hp does not require such measures. | ||
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I have to remove all the studs and prepare the geometry for screw in studs. I'll go with whatever the cam company recommends either 3/8 or 7/16 studs. The choice of rockers will also be decisive. Aiming at a nice steel roller rocker such as CompCams Magnum Pro Roller Rocker 1,6:1. The geometry defined I'll have the bosses machined for proper height of the studs then the centers bored according to proper alignment from the lifter bores to the valve stems. | I have to remove all the studs and prepare the geometry for screw in studs. I'll go with whatever the cam company recommends either 3/8 or 7/16 studs. The choice of rockers will also be decisive. Aiming at a nice steel roller rocker such as CompCams Magnum Pro Roller Rocker 1,6:1. The geometry defined I'll have the bosses machined for proper height of the studs then the centers bored according to proper alignment from the lifter bores to the valve stems. | ||
| − | Machine the valve pockets and the valve guide bosses for clearance to accomodate the new lift. | + | Machine the valve pockets and the valve guide bosses for clearance to accomodate the new lift. Still have to see to what happens once I get the pistons. |
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