Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft
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Drain the engine oil with engine hot. Or maybe place the engine close to a heat source or at the sun to heat up while draining. Maybe even a couple of days. Especially the water will still pool. By placing the engine at different angles you may drain most of it. Once the heads are off Some coolant may drain when turning the engine over from the passages in the back between block and heads and from the two located between the first and last and the middle cylinders. It is so much easier without the mess of oil and water. | Drain the engine oil with engine hot. Or maybe place the engine close to a heat source or at the sun to heat up while draining. Maybe even a couple of days. Especially the water will still pool. By placing the engine at different angles you may drain most of it. Once the heads are off Some coolant may drain when turning the engine over from the passages in the back between block and heads and from the two located between the first and last and the middle cylinders. It is so much easier without the mess of oil and water. | ||
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Spray all bolts with penetration oil and let it soak. Re-spray after 30 minutes and best is to go for lunch. | Spray all bolts with penetration oil and let it soak. Re-spray after 30 minutes and best is to go for lunch. | ||
Spray the gasket edges e.g. TBI, Thermostat, sensors, head-gasket as well. | Spray the gasket edges e.g. TBI, Thermostat, sensors, head-gasket as well. | ||
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I nearly always wear surgical gloves when working on dirty stuff. At the same time these gloves save you from fine metal filings which can sting through the skin. Use the "nitrile" ones as latex will dissolve in most of the fluids we have around engines. | I nearly always wear surgical gloves when working on dirty stuff. At the same time these gloves save you from fine metal filings which can sting through the skin. Use the "nitrile" ones as latex will dissolve in most of the fluids we have around engines. | ||
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| + | Marking parts is easiest using an engraver such as one from DREMEL or others. Just got one a couple days ago for 40$ and works like a charm. Try to etch your marks in locations where they do not add a stress raiser. Where original factory markings is could be a good spot or check on the internet or books. All machined parts which touch another part is no-no. All surfaces where a bearing is being set are no-no unless treated accordingly. Try finding spots where there is no gasket. On the heads for example is a lot of room on the intake side surface where there is no gasket. | ||
| + | Engravers stamp little craters into the metal. By sanding over it with a fine grit paper or a stone can relief the sharp craters rims. | ||
== ENGINE STAND == | == ENGINE STAND == | ||
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