Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft

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(TECH STUFF ABOUT THE 1994 4.3l V6)
(TIPS AND TRICKS)
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I nearly always wear surgical gloves when working on dirty stuff. At the same time these gloves save you from fine metal filings which can sting through the skin. Use the "nitrile" ones as latex will dissolve in most of the fluids we have around engines.
 
I nearly always wear surgical gloves when working on dirty stuff. At the same time these gloves save you from fine metal filings which can sting through the skin. Use the "nitrile" ones as latex will dissolve in most of the fluids we have around engines.
  
Marking parts is easiest using an engraver such as one from DREMEL or others. Just got one a couple days ago for 40$ and works like a charm. Try to etch your marks in locations where they do not add a stress raiser. Where original factory markings is could be a good spot or check on the internet or books. All machined parts which touch another part is no-no. All surfaces where a bearing is being set are no-no unless treated accordingly. Try finding spots where there is no gasket. On the heads for example is a lot of room on the intake side surface where there is no gasket.
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Marking parts is easiest using an engraver such as one from DREMEL or others. Just got one a couple days ago for 40$ and works like a charm. Try to etch your marks in locations where they do not add a stress raiser. Where original factory markings are located could be a good spot or check on the internet or books. All machined parts which touch another part is no-no. All surfaces where a bearing is being set are no-no unless treated accordingly. Try finding spots where there is no gasket. On the heads for example is a lot of room on the intake side surface where there is no gasket.
Engravers stamp little craters into the metal. By sanding over it with a fine grit paper or a stone can relief the sharp craters rims.
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Engravers stamp little craters into the metal. By sanding over it with a fine grit paper or a stone can relief the sharp craters rims and allow for a gasket to sit on the marking without leaking.
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I'm in restoration of old and historic cars. We do 12 cylinder Ferraris at the place I work and it all comes down to the finish.
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Put an engine together in a hurry and sloppily and it will leak and wear.
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Cleanliness is not an option but a must on the workplace. I do not assemble in the same location where I grind and sand.
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I've disassembled a big block which has been killed by sanding the intake. The little bit of remaining grit which got not washed out properly had it killed in 100 miles. After 100 miles it had used 2 quarts of oil - no leaks - but everything was scratched and scored. Result - rebuild with all new bearings, new hydraulic lifters, new pistons and rings, new valves, with a bit of luck no new valve guides and a hone on the cylinders.
  
 
== ENGINE STAND ==
 
== ENGINE STAND ==

Revision as of 03:56, 27 June 2016

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