Editing Adjusting solid lifters
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# After the intake valve has been adjusted, continue to rotate the engine, watching that same intake valve. The intake valve will go to full lift and then begin to close. When the intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake valve almost closed, we are sure that the exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Use the feeler gauge and follow the procedure described before in step 3. | # After the intake valve has been adjusted, continue to rotate the engine, watching that same intake valve. The intake valve will go to full lift and then begin to close. When the intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake valve almost closed, we are sure that the exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Use the feeler gauge and follow the procedure described before in step 3. | ||
# Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, so move to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again. In the future you may find shortcuts to this method, but it still remains the best way to do the job correctly. | # Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, so move to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again. In the future you may find shortcuts to this method, but it still remains the best way to do the job correctly. | ||
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===Using Valve Lash to Help Tune the Engine (aka "lash loop")=== | ===Using Valve Lash to Help Tune the Engine (aka "lash loop")=== | ||
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*If the engine is running normally, take both cold and hot lash readings. Those reading will obviously be close to the correct lash for that cam and engine. | *If the engine is running normally, take both cold and hot lash readings. Those reading will obviously be close to the correct lash for that cam and engine. | ||
*If nothing is known about the cam and the engine isn't running, and the unknown cam has to be used, regardless- set the valves cold to 0.016" for an iron head and block engine. 0.016" is used because it's basically at the top of the "tight lash" range, and at the bottom of an old-school cam's wider settings. What you do NOT want to do is set the lash too loose! If you have aluminum heads, go 0.004" to 0.006" tighter on the cold lash. | *If nothing is known about the cam and the engine isn't running, and the unknown cam has to be used, regardless- set the valves cold to 0.016" for an iron head and block engine. 0.016" is used because it's basically at the top of the "tight lash" range, and at the bottom of an old-school cam's wider settings. What you do NOT want to do is set the lash too loose! If you have aluminum heads, go 0.004" to 0.006" tighter on the cold lash. | ||
− | *Most cams have an ID engraved or stamped into them, often on the back end of the cam. The lift and duration @ 0.050" can also be measured if the equipment to degree the cam is available | + | *Most cams have an ID engraved or stamped into them, often on the back end of the cam. The lift and duration @ 0.050" can also be measured if the equipment to degree the cam is available. |
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==Special instructions for Duntov 30-30 cam== | ==Special instructions for Duntov 30-30 cam== |