1937-1957 Buick Oldsmobile Pontiac suspension upgrade
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[[image:58 pontiac 41 pontiac lower control arm s.jpg]] | [[image:58 pontiac 41 pontiac lower control arm s.jpg]] | ||
| − | The upper control arm mount is a fairly simple fabrication. If you have a pre 50’s car, the upper mount will differ from the article. The pre 50’s had the lever action shock, therefore no upper shock mount. On both of our conversions (41 Pontiac and 49 Olds) we fabricated the mounts out of angle iron. We used ¼ in. 3x3 angle iron on the Pontiac and added 2 gussets. On the Olds we had some 3/8 in. 4x6 angle iron, so only added one gusset. Note in the pictures how the front mount is higher than the rear mount. This sets up the anti dive angle. Up to 10 * is fine, as long as the upper ball joint is not in a bind. | + | The upper control arm mount is a fairly simple fabrication. If you have a pre 50’s car, the upper mount will differ from the article. The pre 50’s had the lever action shock, therefore no upper shock mount. On both of our conversions (41 Pontiac and 49 Olds) we fabricated the mounts out of angle iron. We used ¼ in. 3x3 angle iron on the Pontiac and added 2 gussets. On the Olds we had some 3/8 in. 4x6 angle iron, so only added one gusset. |
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| + | [[image:49_olds_upper_mount_1.jpg]] | ||
| + | Note in the pictures how the front mount is higher than the rear mount. This sets up the anti dive angle. Up to 10 * is fine, as long as the upper ball joint is not in a bind. | ||
Be sure the frame is level side to side and has the correct front to rear angle that you want. (with 15 inch wheels, my spindle center was 12.5 inches off the ground. I blocked the frame, so that when the lower A was level, the spindle was 12.5 in up) Even a small error here will be costly. It takes ½ inch of shims to adjust 1 degree of camber. If you need to put additional shims on therear of the bracket, to increase caster, and can’t take enough out of the front to keep the camber static, you will have to cut it loose and start over. Unfortunately, you can’t do a full alignment until it is totally finished, basically driveable. So get this part right. If you have any doubts, shade towards the positive camber side, you can add more shims later to move it towards negative. Likewise, move the upper mount to a position about 3/4 inch behind the plumb line for the spindle, to set up at least 5 * of caster in the neutral position (neutral being the static position as mocked up, before final alignment). If you intend to add power steering, I would shoot for 6 * in the neutral position, but don’t get the uppers so far behind the lowers you put the ball joints in a bind. I drilled holes in the bottom plate of the angle iron and when I had it mocked up, I drilled thru the frame and bolted it up with 3/8 inch bolts. This was strong enough to allow me to assemble the entire front end, with springs, put the wheels and tires on it and set it on the ground. Since I had my engine in, I was basically in a final drive setup. I double checked everything, then tore it down and had it welded in place. | Be sure the frame is level side to side and has the correct front to rear angle that you want. (with 15 inch wheels, my spindle center was 12.5 inches off the ground. I blocked the frame, so that when the lower A was level, the spindle was 12.5 in up) Even a small error here will be costly. It takes ½ inch of shims to adjust 1 degree of camber. If you need to put additional shims on therear of the bracket, to increase caster, and can’t take enough out of the front to keep the camber static, you will have to cut it loose and start over. Unfortunately, you can’t do a full alignment until it is totally finished, basically driveable. So get this part right. If you have any doubts, shade towards the positive camber side, you can add more shims later to move it towards negative. Likewise, move the upper mount to a position about 3/4 inch behind the plumb line for the spindle, to set up at least 5 * of caster in the neutral position (neutral being the static position as mocked up, before final alignment). If you intend to add power steering, I would shoot for 6 * in the neutral position, but don’t get the uppers so far behind the lowers you put the ball joints in a bind. I drilled holes in the bottom plate of the angle iron and when I had it mocked up, I drilled thru the frame and bolted it up with 3/8 inch bolts. This was strong enough to allow me to assemble the entire front end, with springs, put the wheels and tires on it and set it on the ground. Since I had my engine in, I was basically in a final drive setup. I double checked everything, then tore it down and had it welded in place. | ||
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We used his original springs, but don’t have it finished yet, so we may do some adjusting to the ride height when all is said and done. Be aware, if you use a disc brake kit with the caliper to the front, you will probably have an issue with the sway bar. | We used his original springs, but don’t have it finished yet, so we may do some adjusting to the ride height when all is said and done. Be aware, if you use a disc brake kit with the caliper to the front, you will probably have an issue with the sway bar. | ||
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[[image:49_olds_lower_with_for_ball_joint.jpg]] | [[image:49_olds_lower_with_for_ball_joint.jpg]] | ||
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