1937-1957 Buick Oldsmobile Pontiac suspension upgrade

The upper control arm mount is a fairly simple fabrication.  If you have a pre 50’s car, the upper mount will differ from the article. The pre 50’s had the lever action shock, therefore no upper shock mount.  On both of our conversions (41 Pontiac and 49 Olds) we fabricated the mounts out of angle iron. We used ¼ in. 3x3 angle iron on the Pontiac and added 2 gussets.  On the Olds we had some 3/8 in. 4x6 angle iron, so only added one gusset.  Note in the pictures how the front mount is higher than the rear mount.  This sets up the anti dive angle. Up to 10 * is fine, as long as the upper ball joint is not in a bind.  

The upper control arm mount is a fairly simple fabrication.  If you have a pre 50’s car, the upper mount will differ from the article. The pre 50’s had the lever action shock, therefore no upper shock mount.  On both of our conversions (41 Pontiac and 49 Olds) we fabricated the mounts out of angle iron. We used ¼ in. 3x3 angle iron on the Pontiac and added 2 gussets.  On the Olds we had some 3/8 in. 4x6 angle iron, so only added one gusset.  Note in the pictures how the front mount is higher than the rear mount.  This sets up the anti dive angle. Up to 10 * is fine, as long as the upper ball joint is not in a bind.  

Be sure the frame is level side to side and has the correct front to rear angle that you want.  (with 15 inch wheels, my spindle center was 12.5 inches off the ground. I blocked the frame, so that when the lower A was level, the spindle was 12.5 in up)  Even a small error here will be costly.  It takes ½ inch of shims to adjust 1 degree of camber. If you need to put additional shims on therear of the bracket, to increase caster, and can’t take enough out of the front to keep the camber static, you will have to cut it loose and start over.  Unfortunately, you can’t do a full alignment until it is totally finished, basically driveable. So get this part right. If you have any doubts, shade towards the positive camber side, you can add more shims later to move it towards negative.  Likewise, move the upper mount to a position about 3/4 inch behind the plumb line for the spindle, to set up at least 5 * of caster in the neutral position (neutral being the static position as mocked up, before final alignment).  If you intend to add power steering, I would shoot for 6 * in the neutral position, but don’t get the uppers so far behind the lowers you put the ball joints in a bind. I drilled holes in the bottom plate of the angle iron and when I had it mocked up, I drilled thru the frame and bolted it up with 3/8 inch bolts.  This was strong enough to allow me to assemble the entire front end, with springs, put the wheels and tires on it and set it on the ground.  Since I had my engine in, I was basically in a final drive setup. I double checked everything, then tore it down and had it welded in place.

Be sure the frame is level side to side and has the correct front to rear angle that you want.  (with 15 inch wheels, my spindle center was 12.5 inches off the ground. I blocked the frame, so that when the lower A was level, the spindle was 12.5 in up)  Even a small error here will be costly.  It takes ½ inch of shims to adjust 1 degree of camber. If you need to put additional shims on therear of the bracket, to increase caster, and can’t take enough out of the front to keep the camber static, you will have to cut it loose and start over.  Unfortunately, you can’t do a full alignment until it is totally finished, basically driveable. So get this part right. If you have any doubts, shade towards the positive camber side, you can add more shims later to move it towards negative.  Likewise, move the upper mount to a position about 3/4 inch behind the plumb line for the spindle, to set up at least 5 * of caster in the neutral position (neutral being the static position as mocked up, before final alignment).  If you intend to add power steering, I would shoot for 6 * in the neutral position, but don’t get the uppers so far behind the lowers you put the ball joints in a bind. I drilled holes in the bottom plate of the angle iron and when I had it mocked up, I drilled thru the frame and bolted it up with 3/8 inch bolts.  This was strong enough to allow me to assemble the entire front end, with springs, put the wheels and tires on it and set it on the ground.  Since I had my engine in, I was basically in a final drive setup. I double checked everything, then tore it down and had it welded in place.

For spindles, I started with the 63 Pontiac spindles as advised in the article.  ( Tapered bearings and a good Scarebird kit available.)  Unfortunately when I set it on the ground, it was too high.  This led to a search for dropped spindles.  BOP – they don’t exist.  

For spindles, I started with the 63 Pontiac spindles as advised in the article.  ( Tapered bearings and a good Scarebird kit available.)  Unfortunately when I set it on the ground, it was too high.  This led to a search for dropped spindles.  BOP – they don’t exist.  

Here is where I appreciated the bolt in mock up.  The dropped spindle from CPP was almost 2 inches longer than the stock spindle.  Not a problem, in fact they say the longer spindle gives move stability.  But the longer spindle changed the geometry and I had to reset the location of the upper control arm mounts.  Glad it wasn’t welded in at this point.

Here is where I appreciated the bolt in mock up.  The dropped spindle from CPP was almost 2 inches longer than the stock spindle.  Not a problem, in fact they say the longer spindle gives move stability.  But the longer spindle changed the geometry and I had to reset the location of the upper control arm mounts.  Glad it wasn’t welded in at this point.

Note: CPP’s drop spindle is available alone, or in a disc brake kit. Be sure you get the CP30101 spindle. It has no steering arms built in. Stock spindles are front steer and won’t work. With the CP30101 you can just add a pair of 65-70 stock arms. Flipped over they fit your rear steer perfectly, even the taper is the right direction.  Unlike the 63 Pontiac arm in the article, the Chevy arms are pretty straight.  I only needed to shorten my tie rods less than an inch, rather than the 3 inches in the article.  I got there by trimming a little off both the inner and outer tie rod threads and the sleeve. No cutting and welding.  

Note: CPP’s drop spindle is available alone, or in a disc brake kit. Be sure you get the CP30101 spindle. It has no steering arms built in. Stock spindles are front steer and won’t work. With the CP30101 you can just add a pair of 65-70 stock arms. Flipped over they fit your rear steer perfectly, even the taper is the right direction.  Unlike the 63 Pontiac arm in the article, the Chevy arms are pretty straight.  I only needed to shorten my tie rods less than an inch, rather than the 3 inches in the article.  I got there by trimming a little off both the inner and outer tie rod threads and the sleeve. No cutting and welding.