1937-1957 Buick Oldsmobile Pontiac suspension upgrade
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Postwar, they were 2-1/4" by 12”, with 1-1/8” wheel cylinders. The most basic upgrade would be to the later, larger, components. Control arms and spindles are unchanged for 20 years, so this is a basic bolt on. Even the shop manuals refer to this upgrade. | Postwar, they were 2-1/4" by 12”, with 1-1/8” wheel cylinders. The most basic upgrade would be to the later, larger, components. Control arms and spindles are unchanged for 20 years, so this is a basic bolt on. Even the shop manuals refer to this upgrade. | ||
| − | The single reservoir master cylinder is located under the floor and bolted to the frame. A new split system | + | The single reservoir master cylinder is located under the floor and bolted to the frame. A new split system master cylinder and power [[booster]] will be an amazing transformation of your stopping ability. Several aftermarket master cylinders and 7” boosters (with universal pedal mounts) are available. With a V8 engine swap, a 7” booster seems to be the most you can squeeze under the hood. |
The Geo Metro hanging pedal and 7 inch booster is one option, but the MC (master cylinder) is small. Didn't chase down a match, but the center hole and bolt pattern appear to be typical GM. Be sure to get one designed for a booster application, and pay attention to the pushrod length. | The Geo Metro hanging pedal and 7 inch booster is one option, but the MC (master cylinder) is small. Didn't chase down a match, but the center hole and bolt pattern appear to be typical GM. Be sure to get one designed for a booster application, and pay attention to the pushrod length. | ||
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If you elect to do a power-only upgrade, and keep 4-wheel drums, be aware most master cylinders are designed for a disc/drum setup, and you will have to add 10 psi residual valves to the front lines. | If you elect to do a power-only upgrade, and keep 4-wheel drums, be aware most master cylinders are designed for a disc/drum setup, and you will have to add 10 psi residual valves to the front lines. | ||
| − | *The front drums and hubs come together, at about $130 each | + | *The front drums and hubs come together, at about $130 each |
| − | *Wheel cylinders are $32 each | + | *Wheel cylinders are $32 each |
| − | *Shoes are $25 plus cores | + | *Shoes are $25 plus cores |
| − | *Hardware is $15, flex hoses are $25 each | + | *Hardware is $15, flex hoses are $25 each |
| − | *The above mentioned wheel bearings are $200 | + | *The above mentioned wheel bearings are $200 |
| − | So, a complete brake job will run around $600 just for the | + | So, a complete brake job will run around $600 just for the two front wheels, without the master cylinder or booster. |
===Disc brake upgrade=== | ===Disc brake upgrade=== | ||
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