Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft
(→TECH STUFF ABOUT THE 1994 4.3l V6) |
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'''CRANK REMOVAL''' | '''CRANK REMOVAL''' | ||
| − | By removing the crank and the main bearing caps I can put the block back upside and it will rest on the base nicely for transport. To remove the crank crack all the bolts on the caps and remove them. I again kept them in the order I have removed them from. Clean and check the bearing surface. The crank has no discolorations which is a good sign. Seems that it never overheated somewhere. The bearings show normal wear for a 120'000 miles engine. Once all the caps | + | By removing the crank and the main bearing caps I can put the block back upside and it will rest on the base nicely for transport. To remove the crank crack all the bolts on the caps and remove them. I again kept them in the order I have removed them from. Clean and check the bearing surface. The crank has no discolorations which is a good sign. Seems that it never overheated somewhere. The bearings show normal wear for a 120'000 miles engine. Once all the caps were off I found one with a scratch through about 100 degrees of the lower half of the bearing. The small debris embedded itself into the soft bearing surface and did not scratch the crank as it is supposed to do. This is one of the reasons for a soft surface. Packed all neatly into the boxes and two large cardboard boxes and transported it home. |
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Spray the gasket edges e.g. TBI, Thermostat, sensors, head-gasket as well. | Spray the gasket edges e.g. TBI, Thermostat, sensors, head-gasket as well. | ||
I nearly always wear surgical gloves when working on dirty stuff. At the same time these gloves save you from fine metal filings which can sting through the skin. Use the "nitrile" ones as latex will dissolve in most of the fluids we have around engines. | I nearly always wear surgical gloves when working on dirty stuff. At the same time these gloves save you from fine metal filings which can sting through the skin. Use the "nitrile" ones as latex will dissolve in most of the fluids we have around engines. | ||
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| + | == ENGINE STAND == | ||
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| + | Engine stands for U.S. engines are not readily available in Europe and very expensive to have them shipped. I opted for a build based on two 400 kg (some 850 lbs) carts with four free steering wheels and brakes on two. A couple of scaffolding tubing and joints for some 180 $ make a nice and rather solid stand. I'll have a friend cut a steel plate for the fixing holes on the engine transmission side. Then I may be able to turn the engine on two axis. Could be handy to store the block on the stand. | ||
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| + | == NEXT STEPS == | ||
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| + | The coming week I'll have to disassemble the block completely by removing the lifters, cam and balance shafts and take it to my machine shop for hot tanking. The heads as well have to be disassembled and once all the stuff is out hot tanked. We'll see what comes from them once cleaned. | ||
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