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| − | [http://henryherbert.com original site]A great handmade dinner suit will be created with similar thing in mind when it comes to bespoke suits, it of course need to style precisely for most desireable comfort and style but also need to stand up and be able to stand the stubborn test of time and all of the weddings within it that can easily contribute to the unthreading and unwanted wearing of the over coat. We cant stop things like gravity a natural wear but we can put in strong measures to prevent unwanted tearing and miss shaping, one possible solution is what a lot of great wedding suit makers have done including Thomas Pink, Armani, Gucci and Henry Herbert Tailors. What I am specifically talking about without fail is of course the all important last but not least and better off never forgotten or ignored gusset along the seam, a gusset is basically a junction created by clever stitching at either the bottom or top where is is most needed and most pressure with be put on the delicate areas. I have met some tailors who turn their noses up at using gussets as they expressed that they feel if a shirt has been made correctly it wont need one, I agree this is true and all bespoke country suitmust be made correctly with double stitching in certain areas etc but why not exercise caution for the sake of caution, just in case a piece of cotton twist splits which can happen to a piece of fashionable clothing no matter how careful a dandy gentleman is, in fact this remind me of an article I once read quite some time ago now if I recall that discussed business suits, weddings suits, double breasted and bespoke dinner suits as well as our bespoke shirt topic double breasted suit. All it takes is one situation where an accident happens not connected the making of the shirt for it to god forbid split which is why the very best London tailors will always as I said above double stitch where possible and also use a gusset, you can use a T gusset which is more commonly used on bags to be honest or a butterfly gusset which is triangular in sharp and almost looks like an odd shape at the top or button of the seam but advantages as it gives you the extra sartorial support you need so that you can have confidence your Tailor has done a good job!
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