Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft
(→SEARCHING FOR PARTS) |
|||
| Line 146: | Line 146: | ||
== ENGINE STAND == | == ENGINE STAND == | ||
| − | Engine stands for U.S. engines are not readily available in Europe and very expensive to have them shipped. I opted for a build based on two 400 kg (some 850 lbs) dollies with four free steering wheels and brakes on two. A couple of scaffolding tubing and joints for some 180 $ make a nice and rather solid stand. I'll have a friend cut a steel plate | + | Engine stands for U.S. engines are not readily available in Europe and very expensive to have them shipped. I opted for a build based on two 400 kg (some 850 lbs) dollies with four free steering wheels and brakes on two. A couple of scaffolding tubing and joints for some 180 $ make a nice and rather solid stand. I'll have a friend cut a steel plate to match the holes on the engine transmission side. Then I may be able to turn the engine on two axis. Could be handy to store the block on the stand. |
| + | |||
| + | The block has been disassembled completely now, the lifters are out, everything except the crankshaft looks reasonably well in shape and could be reused right away. No surprises so far. The block is clean and dry now, the heads as well, all the stuff is out and shows reasonable wear. Above the lifter valley things look good. No scratchings as in the lower side. Camshaft looks good as well. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Hot tanked and washed I ground all the casting ridges down and smoothed some of the sharp edges and corners on the block and heads. No more cuts from the heads and block. Talk to your machine shop where this is safe to be done and where not to touch the surface. In general all machined "surfaces" are no-go with the grinder. All external casting ribs and sharp machined edges are o.k. to get a slight chamfer or being deburred. Easy on thin surfaces that should seal such as the timing covers or the valve covers ribs on the block and heads. | ||
== NEXT STEPS == | == NEXT STEPS == | ||
| − | + | I'll have to get my block and heads then I'll put the first and last cam bearing back into place to measure all the stuff from OEM and determine machining specs. | |
| + | |||
| + | Looks like the heads will have the pressed studs removed and replaced with screw in studs and the valvespring pockets will be machined as well as the stud bosses to get good seating for springs and studs. | ||
== SEARCHING FOR PARTS == | == SEARCHING FOR PARTS == | ||
| − | One of the downsides of this engine is the fact that nobody ever took care of serious builds on this base. Although this engine has seen a myriad of applications and has been produced in millions it has never been seriously considered for racing or | + | One of the downsides of this engine is the fact that nobody ever took care of serious builds on this base. Although this engine has seen a myriad of applications and has been produced in millions it has never been seriously considered for racing or builds. It shares a great deal of common parts with the SBC V8 so a lot of parts can be sourced from there. The hot-rod magazine has probably built the ultimate 4.3l V6 showing the potential. |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
'''CRANKSHAFT''' | '''CRANKSHAFT''' | ||
| − | Cranks are available as cast cranks for as little as 150 $. For a more serious build a forged crank would be nice. | + | Cranks are available as cast cranks for as little as 150 $. For a more serious build a forged crank would be nice. All the OEM cranks including those used on the marine engines producing 200+ hp are cast cranks. All the V6 are external balance cranks. |
Most suppliers would supply a billet crank for this engine from 3'000 to 5'000 $. | Most suppliers would supply a billet crank for this engine from 3'000 to 5'000 $. | ||
| − | The problem is: Then you have a monster crank able to | + | The problem is: Then you have a monster crank able to withstand 1'200 hp in a two bolt cap block able to put out 500 at max. |
| + | |||
| + | So I'll have to go with the factory crank properly balanced (internal balance) which should easily withstand 300 hp. As the goal is below that number I should be fine with that. | ||
| − | + | '''CYLINDER HEADS''' | |
| + | I think at this time after some reading that it can be safely assumed the 1994 V6 "Vortec" heads are the same as the OEM LS31 heads for the 350ci V8's. | ||
| + | The 1.94 Intake and 1.50 Exhaust valves should have acceptable flow at low lifts which would be a nice thing for a daily drive and low to mid rpm power band modifications. At the same time this will keep the cost way down. Modifications for screw in studs and decent roller rockers are enough. | ||
Your Privacy Choices