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| − | ==Why not do a "cheapo" paint job?==
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| − | *Time invested in mechanical aspect of job.
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| − | *Deterioration of finish over time. Looks great at first, but can take years to deteriorate.
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| − | *Value of paint job relevant to value of rest of vehicle is disproportionate. AKA, using this method to paint a show car or rare automobile.
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| − | *Down the line, if you want to do a professional-quality paint job, all of the underlying cheapo paint will need to be removed. Stripping the paint, doing the filler work, priming, blocking, and removing trim or panels can take hundreds of hours for a hobbyist, or cost thousands of dollars if done professionally. When modern finishes are applied over cheapo finishes, the differing chemical make-ups cause problems. This removal is very time-consuming and labor intensive. Cheapo paints are often very soluble, and when modern finishes are applied over them, the solvents will get under the old paint and make it peel.
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| − | Cheap Paint Job?
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| − | As a novice don’t even think about painting your car to save money. Do it for a quality job you can count on with better results than an economy paint shop would give you. Don’t think you can beat the $299 special on price though. I spent that in primer. Remember this is just an opinion and you know how those go. You can look at the pictures http://vintagebus.net/red/index.htm to see the extent I went to. I have over 10 hours in the color sand and buff which at $65 an hour shop rate, would have cost $650 alone.
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| − | The first step was to grind out all the rust and weld in any new panels. It has been going on for so long that I can only begin to guess at hours, but I would say close to 25.
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| − | Step two was to tape off and prime. The primer filler alone was over $100 a gallon. I would say block sanding and priming took about 40 hours. I should have done a lot more to truly get a flat panel worthy of painting flat black. Don’t forget I have another $100 in sandpaper, masking paper, and tape.
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| − | Step three was to paint the entire car white. This was done not only for the two tone effect, but also for a white base to highlight the green. I bought cheap enamel offline at $50 for a gallon with hardener. With taping and spraying I would say about 6 hours.
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| − | Step four was the green. This was another $50 and about 3 hours of masking and spraying.
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| − | Step five was the clear coat. This cost another $50 and about 7 hours worth of masking and praying the 5 coats.
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| − | Step six really sucked. The final coat of clear yellowed because of some type of garbage in the paint. I think it was juice from the million bugs that seem to land in the paint the minute you start spraying. Yes, I did use pre cleaner before every coat. So now I have to re-spray the white after sanding. There goes another 5 hours.
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| − | Step seven is another coat of clear. One hour for start to finish.
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| − | Step eight is the color sanding and buffing. Color sanding took about 5 hours and buffing took about 5. Don’t forget the rubbing compound and swirl remover with pads costs another $125.
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| − | So what was the grand total on my cheap paint job?
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| − | Miscellaneous supplies like thinner to clean the gun and pre-cleaner $80
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| − | Total hours 97 at $65 an hour $6305
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| − | Primer $100
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| − | Sandpaper $100
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| − | Paint $150
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| − | Buffing $125
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| − | Total without labor $555
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| − | Total with labor $6860
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| | ==When is a "cheapo" paint job appropriate?== | | ==When is a "cheapo" paint job appropriate?== |
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