Mounting an electric fuel pump

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If you solid-mount the pump (bolt it directly to a frame member or other suitable structure of the car), it will transmit the noise and vibrations made by the pump into the sheet metal of the car and make a pretty good racket that gets old to your ears after a while. When I mount one, I stop by Pep Boys or other automotive outlet and get some muffler/exhaust pipe hangers. These are black rubber hangers that are about 3/4 inch thick and 1inch wide and look like they may have been cut from an old truck tire. They have holes drilled in them along the length and a quarter-round metal piece riveted onto one end of the hanger that matches the exhaust pipe curvature. I cut the metal piece off and bolt a couple of hangers to the car and then bolt the pump to the hangers to isolate the noise. I also use barbed fittings for the fuel in/out at the pump and use a 2-3 inch piece of fuel-rated rubber hose to attach the inlet and outlet hard lines to the pump to further isolate the noise and vibration produced by the pump. It's also a good idea to mount a fuel filter between the tank and the pump to keep junk out of the pump. Mount the pump as low and as near to the tank as possible without putting it so low that it would get hooked on highway trash and leave you thumbin' for a ride home. Electric pumps were designed to push fuel, not pull it.
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==Pump mounting==
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Electric pumps were designed to push fuel, not pull it. Mount the pump as low and as near to the tank as possible without putting it so low that it would get damaged by highway debris.
  
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Mounting an electric fuel pump '''directly''' to the vehicle's frame or underbody, etc. is not a good method for most vehicles. If you solid-mount the pump (bolt it directly to a frame member or other suitable structure of the car), it will transmit the noise and vibrations made by the pump into the sheet metal of the car and can make a pretty good racket that gets old to your ears after a while.
  
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One way to mount an electric fuel pump is to use rubber insulated muffler/exhaust pipe hangers. These are black rubber hangers that are about 3/8" thick and 1" wide and look like they may have been cut from an old truck tire. They have holes drilled in them along the length and a quarter-round metal piece riveted onto one end of the hanger that matches the exhaust pipe curvature. The metal piece can be removed and as many of these hangars can be combined to give the size needed, then bolt the pump to the hangers to isolate the noise. One such hanger is the < $5.00/each Walker p/n 36273, shown below:
  
A good pump like the Carter P4070 will come with a mounting bracket suitable for most applications, Plus it usually comes with the mounting and electrical hardware. The cad plated bracket has a 90 deg. bend in it that can be bent to fit most applications in a multitude of places.
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[[File:Walker 36273.JPG]]
[[Image:Carter_P4070_pump_kit.jpg‎]][[Image:Ford_Carter_mount.JPG‎]]
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This is a rotary pump as opposed to the diaphragm pumps like Holley. A rotary pump will be much quieter and has less vibration this will result in less noise to the occupants inside the car. It will pump out an honest 4 - 7 pounds too.  
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A good pump like the Carter P4070 shown below will come with a mounting bracket suitable for most applications, Plus it usually comes with the mounting and electrical hardware. The cad plated bracket has a 90º bend in it that can be bent to fit most applications.
  
If you decide on using a Holley Blue or Red pump, they also come with a round clamp that grips the cylinder type body of the pump. Here is a couple of pictures of a mounting system that you could use on your application. Its somewhat flexible and protects the pump body from mechanical hazards. [[Image:Holley_pump_mount.jpg‎]][[Image:Holley_mount.jpg‎ ]]
 
  
This Mallory pump and filter makes a nice setup with a one bolt mount to the body and a clamp around the fuel pump body. Easy access and simple design make it worthwhile. Notice that the fuel filter is an easy spin on. Flexible braided line eliminates most of the vibration from the pump.
 
[[Image:Mallory_fuel_pump.jpg‎]]
 
  
One thing that should be noted when installing an electric fuel pump is that if you should have an accident or a roll over that the pump will keep on pumping as long as the ignition is 'ON'. Therefore, I would recommend that some sort of 'Inertia interrupter' or rollover switch, be installed to shut off the fuel pump for this very reason. For a couple bucks at the wreckers, you can usually find one a late model Mustang, located in the trunk area by removing some of the trim panels by the left tail light you'll see a small plastic box with two wires and a red reset button. Install this inline from the pump to the ignition switch and you'll have the same protection as the newer Ford cars enjoy.
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The Carter pump is a rotary pump, so is the Holley. A rotary pump will be much quieter and has less vibration. This will result in less noise to the occupants inside the car. It will pump out an honest 4-7 psi.
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{|
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|[[Image:Carter_P4070_pump_kit.jpg]]
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|[[Image:Ford_Carter_mount.JPG|310px]]
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|}
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If you decide to use a Holley Blue or Red pump, they come with a round clamp that grips the cylindrical body of the pump. Below are a couple of pictures of a mounting system that you could use on your application. It's somewhat flexible and protects the pump body from mechanical hazards.
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{|
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|[[Image:Holley_pump_mount.jpg|300px]]
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|[[Image:Holley_mount.jpg‎|300px]]
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|}
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==Filters==
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It's a good idea to mount a fuel filter between the tank and the pump to keep junk out of the pump.
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The Holley pump and Fram filter below make a nice setup with a one-bolt mount to the body and a clamp around the fuel pump body. Easy access and a simple design make it user friendly. Notice that the fuel filter is an easy to remove/replace spin-on type. Flexible braided line eliminates most of the vibration from the pump, although the hard line used on the outlet side may transmit some vibrations.
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[[Image:Mallory_fuel_pump.jpg|border|left|450px]] <br style="clear:both"/>
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==Fittings==
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Barbed or AN-type fittings can be used with flexible fuel line like braided stainless steel lines for the fuel in/out at the pump, instead of steel hard lines. Use a 2-3 inch long piece of fuel-rated rubber hose to attach the inlet and outlet hard lines to the pump to further isolate the noise and vibration produced by the pump.
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==Rollover protection==
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One thing that should be noted when installing an electric fuel pump is that should there be an accident or a roll over, the pump will keep on pumping as long as the ignition is 'ON'. Therefore, it's recommended that some sort of rollover safety switch be installed to shut off the fuel pump for this very reason. For a couple bucks at the wreckers, you can usually find one in a late model Mustang or Crown Victoria, located in the trunk area by removing some of the trim panels by the driver side tail light. It's a small plastic box with two wires and a red reset button. They also can be found in most '90s trucks and SUVs in the passenger side kick panel. Install this inline in the power wire from the pump to the ignition switch and you'll have the same protection as the newer Ford cars enjoy. Painless sells a rollover safety switch kit as well, p/n 80160.
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The pump can also be wired through an oil pressure switch that will shut the pump off any time the oil pressure falls below a predetermined pressure. However this is no guarantee the pump will shut off in a rollover, etc. because the engine may remain running. So do not rely solely on such a set-up.
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==Mounting instructions on pdf==
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*[[Media:Jegs fp install.pdf|Jegs instructions]]
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*[[Media: Mallory inst..pdf|Mallory instructions]]
  
 
[[Category:Electrical]]
 
[[Category:Electrical]]
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[[Category:Engine]]
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[[Category:Carburetors]]

Latest revision as of 18:05, 30 May 2021

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