TH350 rebuild tech

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==T-350 Overview==
==Overview==
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The GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 transmission (aka "T-350", "Turbo 350", THM350, etc.) was used between 1968-'86 in RWD and 4WD GM domestic vehicles. The TH350 was still produced many years beyond 1986 for export sales. It is a relatively rugged, compact transmission that lends itself to a wide variety of applications and modifications.
The GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 transmission (aka "T350", "TH350", "T-350", "Turbo 350", etc.) was used between 1968-'86 in RWD and 4WD GM vehicles. It is a relatively rugged, compact transmission that lends itself to a wide variety of applications and modifications.
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==Rebuilding the T-350==
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{|
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|[[File:TH 350 backXL diagram.jpg|thumb|300px|center|Exploded view, "back" of the TH350 transmission.]]
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|[[File:TH 350 front diagram.jpg|thumb|300px|center|Exploded view, "front" of transmission.]]
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|}
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==Basic rebuild information==
 
==Basic rebuild information==
[http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53671 Rebuild article by Jakeshoe]
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{{Note1}}
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*This wiki is not intended to be a replacement for an ATSG or factory tech manual. First time builders will likely need a tech manual. Recommended is Ron Sessions' book, [http://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Hydra-Matic-350-Handbook-Sessions/dp/0895860511 '''''Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 Handbook'''''] in the HP book series. It has good pictures, a lot of good info, but has some outdated info. Outstanding value for the money.
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*This is not a step-by step tutorial. That said, the following should help give a better understanding of the T-350 and possibly help when a question arises.
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*The following page was inspired by an original Hotrodders forum thread by jakeshoe, titled [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/th350-rebuild-tech-145361.html ''TH350 Rebuild Tech''].
  
'''NOTE:'''
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==Variations of the T-350 family==
*This WIKI is not intended to be a replacement for an ATSG or factory tech manual. First time builders will likely need a tech manual. Recommended is Ron Sessions' book "TH350 Handbook" in the HP book series. It has good pictures, a lot of good info, but has some outdated info. Outstanding value for the money.
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There is also a T-350C and T-250C version that has a lockup torque converter (TCC). Look for the end of the input shaft to have a smooth polished end with O-ring on it, similar in appearance to the 200C/2004R and 700R4/pre-LSx 4L60E. The case has a "C" cast into it, and there will be an electrical plug adjacent to the shifter shaft on the driver side of the tranny. Same also holds true with the oil pump - "C" is cast into the pump cover and pump half.  
*This is not a step-by step pictorial, don't assume it is shown where every part goes, there will be some thrust washers not illustrated that were installed and not taken an individual picture to show it because of bandwidth considerations.
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That said, the following should help give a better understanding of the T-350 and possibly help when a question arises.
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Don't confuse the T-350C with a T-350 '''non'''-lockup tranny with a screwed-in electrical connector on the ''passenger'' side of the case. This is a pressure switch that was used ~1972-'73 for the Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS) system. This disabled the distributor vacuum advance in all gears except high gear, and is a single wire switch threaded into a pressure port near where the cooler lines are located. In the case of this switch, you can either leave it in place, unused- or remove it and plug the port.  
  
==Transmission ID==
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Hughes, TCI and Boss Hog make TH350C torque converters.
{|
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|[[File:TH350 ID governor cover.jpg|frame|left|ID stamped into governor cover.]]
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|}
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There was also a TH350'''C''' version that has a lockup torque converter (TCC). The case has a "C" cast into it, and there will be an electrical plug adjacent to the shifter shaft on the driver side of the tranny. Not to be confused with a TH350 non-lockup tranny with a screwed-in electrical connector on the ''passenger'' side of the case. This is a pressure switch that was used ~1972-'73 for the Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS) system. This disabled the distributor vacuum advance in all gears except high gear, and is a single wire switch threaded into a pressure port near where the cooler lines are located. In the case of this switch, you can either leave it in place, unused- or remove it and plug the port. There have been reports of some TH350 trannys having a temp sender in this area as well.
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There aren't a lot of places making high stall torque converters for the TH350C. Torque converter makers for the “C”: Pats, TCI, and Keisler are three.
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==Rebuilding the T-350==
  
The TH250 has a band adjuster stud and locknut on the passenger side of the case near the cooler lines.
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===Bushings and thrust washers===
 
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==Bushings and thrust washers==
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A T-350 is known to be rough on bushings. Bushings are critical in that they allow the rotating parts to ride true on center, and for the lube to make it to the rear of the trans.
 
A T-350 is known to be rough on bushings. Bushings are critical in that they allow the rotating parts to ride true on center, and for the lube to make it to the rear of the trans.
  
Be prepared to replace almost ALL the bushings in a T-350. Might as well order a bushing kit, as well as a thrust washer kit. I would recommend you get at least 2 additional sun gear bushings individually also.
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Be prepared to replace almost ALL the bushings in a T-350. Might as well order a bushing kit, as well as a thrust washer kit. It is also recommended to get two additional sun gear bushings individually.
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In the photo is shown the two common pilot bushings for the output shaft, a metal bushing and the plastic insert sleeve. The plastic sleeve design is very durable, you will find professional builders have their own preference.
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{|
 
{|
|[[File:TCI pn 313700 TH350 bushing kit.jpg|thumb|300px|left|TCI p/n 313700 TH350 bushings.]]  
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|[[File:T-350_bushings.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 bushings]]  
|[[File:TCI pn 313600 thrust washers.jpg|thumb|300px|left|TCI p/n 313600 thrust washer kit.]]
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|[[File:T-350_thrust_washers.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 thrust washer kit]]
 
|}
 
|}
  
==Rebuild kits==
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===Case prep===
[[File:Hughes Performance transmission rebuild kit pn HP3288.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Hughes Performance transmission rebuild kit p/n HP3288.]] <br style="clear:both"/>
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Once the case has been cleaned, all threads checked and/or repaired, and the rear case bushing installed you can start assembly.
  
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===1-2 accumulator===
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While it may be true that removing the accumulator spring from the 1-2 servo will firm up the 1-2 shift, leaving the 1-2 accumulator spring out is not recommended. One reason is the accumulator protects the failure-prone intermediate sprag and another is the spring keeps the cover loaded against the snap ring. Photo shows accumulator cover, spring and piston (snap ring not shown). This is located on right side of transmission case. Check the bore in the case for scratches or other damage if the spring was found broken.
  
==Fluid level==
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[[File:T-350_acumilator01.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 Accumulator cover, spring and piston with sealing rings]] <br style="clear:both"/>
If the dipstick is missing or not correct, the fluid level should be from even with the pan to ¼” above the pan when the fluid is hot.
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==Tailshaft (extension housing) lengths==
 
You will find the TH350 with 6", 9" and 12" tail housings. Overall lengths are 27-11/16”,  30-11/16”,  and 33-27/32”, respectively. There is also a 4WD output (seen below).
 
  
[[File:3504WD output.jpg]]
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Right side of T-350 case. Pressure ports are circled.
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*Rear port (yellow) is main line pressure. You will see pressure here in all gears for most valve body configurations. Some race-only valve bodies may not have pressure at this port or the others
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*Middle port (red) is 2nd gear pressure
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*Front port (blue) is third gear pressure
  
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[[File:T-350_acumilator02.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 pressure ports circled]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
==Gear ratios==
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=Transmission reassembly=
Ratios of the TH350 were consistent throughout its production:
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==Low-reverse piston install==
*First gear- 2.52:1
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The first item to go in the case will be the low/reverse apply piston. Its function is for oil to force it towards the front or bell housing side of the trans, applying the low/reverse clutches. This allows reverse when applied simultaneously with the direct (high gear) clutches, and allows manual low gear when applied with the forward clutches. Manual low gear creates engine braking on deceleration. The low/reverse clutches do not apply in automatic range 1st gear. The low sprag (low roller clutch actually) causes first gear when only the forward clutches are applied.
*Second gear- 1.52:1
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*Third gear- 1.00:1
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*Reverse- 1.93:1
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An aftermarket low-gear planetary is available that will lower the first gear ratio to 2.75:1.
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In the rare application that does not need reverse or low gear engine braking, the low piston and low clutches can be deleted and the feed holes in the case blocked.
  
==What vehicles came with the TH350?==
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Install new seals on the low piston, these are square cut seals, not lip seals.
TH350 was used in some Y- and F-body cars in 1968, then across the board in 1969 to 1980. Then from 1981-’86 the TH350C was available.
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[[File:T-350_low_piston.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 low-reverse piston has three seals on it, creating two separate sections]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
*1969-'84 Buick, Chevrolet, Olds and Pontiac full-size cars
 
*1969-'81 Buick, Chevrolet, Olds and Pontiac A-body, G-body and F-body cars
 
*1973-'79 Buick, Chevrolet Olds and Pontiac X-body cars
 
*1969-'78 Riviera
 
*1975-'82 Corvette
 
*1975-'80 Buick, Chevrolet, Olds and Pontiac H-body cars (Vega, Monza, Skyhawk, etc.)
 
*1981-'82 Cadillac Fleetwood and Deville (uni-bell and TH350C versions)
 
*1973-'85 Chevy and GMC 2- and 4WD pickups, Blazers, G-10, G-20 Vans and Suburbans
 
  
===Valve body modifications===
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Then push it into the rear of the case evenly by hand, aligning it properly so it will seat (there is a "tang"). Look at the park pawl notch to help index it.
Removing check balls and opening up orifices in the separator plate is also a common modification to firm up shifts. Just remember the one check ball that needs to stay is the one just below the modulator.
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====Shift kits====
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[[File:T-350caselowpiston.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 low-reverse piston installed into case]] <br style="clear:both"/>
Often shift improver kits are installed at the time of the tranny rebuild. Various manufacturers make shift improver kits, Trans Go has a good reputation.
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==Shift point changes==
 
  
===Modulator adjustment===
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Then install the return spring and retainer using the tool pictured.
The following is from Dean Mason of TransLab Engineering:
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<Blockquote>  Modulator adjustment is not about setting the shift timing where you want it, especially at max throttle. Modulator is for LINE PRESSURE BOOST, and here's how it works:</Blockquote>  
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[[File:T-350_low_pist_springtool.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Tool used to compress the springs and retainer to install the retaining snap ring]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
<Blockquote>  The modulator is a spring loaded vacuum canister. At high vacuum, the force of vacuum opposes/cancels out the spring force. As vacuum drops, the spring exerts an increasingly greater force against the modulator valve, until at near zero vacuum maximum line pressure boost is achieved.</Blockquote>
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==Output shaft install==
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Next you install the output shaft.
  
<Blockquote>  Now, line pressure boost is needed when torque is increased, so that clutches and bands won't slip. But we don't need boost sitting in park or neutral idling in the parking lot. This just causes premature pump gear and sealing ring wear. Therefore, line pressure should not be boosted at idle. If you use your car as a daily driver, the best setting is that which provides maximum boost during acceleration without unnecessarily high line pressure when it is not needed. That is, NO BOOST AT IDLE, BUT AS SOON AS YOU BEGIN TO ACCELERATE (that is, you drop 1" of vacuum off idle) you want RAPID/RESPONSIVE BOOST.</Blockquote>
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[[File:T-350_output_bearing.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 output shaft with bearing that fits between case and ring gear]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
<Blockquote>  Here's what you need to know:
 
WHAT IS THE VACUUM READING AT IDLE IN DRIVE?
 
The following work is most easily done on a lift with all 4 wheels off the ground and the emergency brake firmly locked!</Blockquote>
 
  
<Blockquote>  We want the engine fully warmed up for this test, and take the reading at the ''tranny'' end of the vacuum line. Unplug the modulator hose from the vacuum modulator assembly. Attach a vacuum gauge to the hose. Start the engine, TURN ON THE AIR CONDITIONER, put the shifter in DRIVE, and write down the vacuum reading on the gauge.</Blockquote> 
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Be sure you have the output ring gear to case bearing in the case.
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Also be sure on dis-assembly you inspected and replaced as necessary the input shaft to output bushing shown here(red arrow).
  
<Blockquote>  Next, get yourself a pocket screwdriver and a new modulator "elbow" (keep the elbow in your pocket). INSTALL PRESSURE GAUGE ON MAIN LINE PORT. Plug the engine side of the vacuum line (so you won't have a vacuum leak). Get a hand operated vacuum pump and attach it to the modulator. Get your little screwdriver and punch it thru the rubber hose (yes that's right!) about 1/2" behind the modulator stem. This way you can adjust your modulator inside the hose with it attached and the engine running!</Blockquote>  
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[[File:T-350_pilot_bushing.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Check this bushing for wear, replace with new metal bushing or slip-in plastic insert]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
<Blockquote>  Now, what was the vacuum reading you wrote down? Let’s say your engine pulls 16 in/Hg in D, HOT, with AC on. We want to drop ONE in/Hg of vacuum, then start to increase line pressure. So, start the engine (neutral is OK for this part), raise idle to 800-1000 rpm, and pump up 15" on your vacuum pump (you may need someone to help maintain a steady 15" on the pump with the screwdriver punched thru the hose due to very minor leakage). </Blockquote>
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==Rear planetary unit install==
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Next goes in the output planetary to output ring gear bearing or thrust washer (depending on year).
  
<Blockquote>  Typically a SBC 350 will run about 60-65 psi at idle, but there are variations in PR springs. If it is much higher, back the modulator adjustment out until there is no more "drop" on the gauge. Now, start to screw IN on the modulator adjuster until you see the pressure gauge start to lift and STOP right there. To check this, pump up 20", watch gauge and start to bleed vacuum off very slowly and the gauge should start to increase exactly at 15".</Blockquote>
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Then the planetary unit. Replace the bushing in this planet.Check planet pinion gears for side to side movement. Clearance of 0.030" to 0.050" is common. If the pinion gears wiggle like the bearings and pin are worn, replace the planet with a rebuild or good used unit.
  
<Blockquote>  If you took your initial readings correctly, you now have a perfectly adjusted modulator. For a slightly steeper boost rate with higher max line pressure, use a 2" modulator instead of the 1 9/16" can size and adjust it exactly as described here. Once you have set it this way you are finished with the adjustment procedure.</Blockquote>  
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[[File:T-350_rear_planet.jpg|thumb|300px|left|TH350 rear planetary unit with fresh busing installed]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
===Detent cable adjustment===
 
<Blockquote>  Unclip the cable locking mechanism and then press the accelerator pedal to the floor. Be sure there's nothing under the pedal and the linkage is allowing full throttle at the carb. Floorboard the gas pedal and the detent cable should just pull tight as the throttle reaches wide open. THAT'S IT! If it doesn't pull tight, readjust, bend bracket, or whatever is necessary to achieve this. If it doesn't pull tight you will not have full detent at wide open throttle. If it pulls tight BEFORE full throttle, you'll break the cable end.</Blockquote>
 
{|
 
|[[File:Kickdown1.jpg|thumb|180px|center|Unlock detent clip by prying up on it.]]
 
|[[File:Kickdown2.jpg|thumb|180px|center|Clip in unlocked position.]]
 
|[[File:Kickdown3.jpg|thumb|180px|center|Open throttle (should be done from inside the car to assure proper travel).]]
 
|[[File:Kickdown4.jpg|thumb|180px|center|Push clip down to lock.]]
 
|}
 
<Blockquote>  Now that the detent and modulator are set correctly, we are ready to think about shift scheduling. ROAD TEST THE CAR. You will need to know minimum and maximum throttle shift speeds for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, the RPM for the max throttle shifts, and the highest speed you can get a 3-1 and a 3-2 kick down. Also, what is the [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Gear_ratio_check axle ratio].</Blockquote>
 
  
<Blockquote>  From this point we work with governor weights, springs, and shift valve springs.</Blockquote>
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Now you can install the low/reverse clutches, beginning with a steel, then a friction, alternating, ending with a friction.
  
==Governor modifications==
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[[File:T-350_low_clutch_install.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 low-reverse frictions and steels installed with planetary and output shaft]] <br style="clear:both"/>
[[File:B&M Governor recalibration kit.jpg|thumb|300px|left|B&M Governor recalibration kit.]] <br style="clear:both"/>
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{{Note1}}If you have a light duty core with low count low pack, unless it is a transbrake application or will be manually shifted into low for engine braking often, fewer clutches is OK. In some cases where you are after every last bit of ET, using fewer clutches can cause less frictional loss in 2nd and high gear. "Turbulator" steel plates from a 4L60E will also help and are a direct drop-in.
  
=Transmission reassembly=
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There are Alto red frictions in this unit, however a stock tan clutch ( like Borg Warner brand) is more than adequate for even very high HP cars. A Hi-Energy Borg Warner friction from a 4L60E is also a good choice.
==Case prep==
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Once the case has been cleaned, all threads checked and/or repaired, and the rear case bushing installed you can start assembly.
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===1-2 accumulator===
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Once the low clutches are installed, you can install the anti-clunk spring (or case-saver). Hold in place with assembly gel or vaseline and then install the low-reverse support.
Photo shows accumulator cover, spring and piston (snap ring not shown). This is located on right side of trans case. Check the bore in the case for scratches or other damage if the spring was found broken.
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[[file:T-350_acumilator01.jpg|frame|none|Accumulator cover, spring and piston with sealing rings.]]
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[[File:T-350_anti-rattle_spring.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Anti rattle (clunk) spring shown in correct location; use assembly grease to hold in place]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
Right side of T-350 case. Pressure ports circled.
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Be sure the low sprag inner race is not brinelled or has any unusual wear. A center support from a 1987-present 700R4 or 4L60E (including the aftermarket case saver with a bolt-on outer plate held with torx head bolts) can be used in place of the stock center support since the roller clutch is wider.  
*Rear port (yellow) is main line pressure. You will see pressure here in all gears for most valve body configurations. Some race-only valve bodies may not have pressure at this port or the others.
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*Middle port (red) is 2nd gear pressure.
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*Front port (blue) is third gear pressure.
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[[file:T-350_acumilator02.jpg|frame|none|Pressure ports circled.]]
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===Low-reverse piston install===
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[[File:T-350_center_suport_sprag.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Photo shows center support with sprag (roller clutch) and inner race]] <br style="clear:both"/>
The first item to go in the case will be the low/reverse apply piston.
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Its function is for oil to force it towards the front or bell housing side of the trans, applying the low/reverse clutches. This allows reverse when applied simultaneously with the direct (high gear) clutches, and allows manual low gear when applied with the forward clutches. Manual low gear creates engine braking on deceleration. The low/reverse clutches do not apply in automatic range 1st gear. The low sprag (low roller clutch actually) causes first gear when only the forward clutches are applied.
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In the rare application that does not need reverse or low gear engine braking the low piston and low clutches can be deleted, and the feed holes in the case blocked.
 
  
Install new seals on the low piston, these are square cut seals, not lip seals.  
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The roller clutch must installed correctly with the edge of the roller clutch tangs match the inner receiving tangs of the center support. Install snap ring. There is a snap ring on both sides of the roller clutch.
[[File:TH350lowpiston.jpg|frame|none|Piston has 3 seals on it. That creates 2 separate sections.]]
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[[File:T-350_assembled_low_support.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Installed sprag (roller clutch), watch orientation of tangs into the center support housing]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
Then push it into the rear of the case evenly by hand, aligning it properly so it will seat (there is a "tang"). Look at the park pawl notch to help index it.
 
[[file:TH350caselowpiston.jpg|frame|none|Low-reverse piston installed into case.]]
 
  
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Once it is pushed into place, install the snap ring with the ends on each side of the spring or case-saver.
  
Then install the return spring and retainer using the tool pictured.
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Now is the time to air check the low clutches. You do so by applying pressurized air to the passage at the rear pan area of the worm casting in the case.  
[[file:TH350lowspringtool.jpg|frame|none| Tool used to compress the springs & retainer to install the retaining snap ring.]]
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[[file:TH350caselowtool.jpg|frame|none|Spring compression tool installed into case.]]
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Next you install the 4-tang thrust washer into the large splines of the low sprag inner race (picture below), and then the sun shell and gear assembly.
  
==Output shaft install==
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[[File:T-350_center_support.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Center support, inner race, thrust washer shown]] <br style="clear:both"/>
Next you install the output shaft.
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[[file:TH350outputassem.jpg|none|300px]]
 
  
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Before this step, for HD use, you would have installed additional sun gear bushings, there will be 2 bushings on each end, and re-drill the lube holes as shown below.
  
Be sure you have the output ring gear to case bearing in the case.
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[[File:T-350_sun_gear_bush.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Double bushings installed. You MUST drill oil holes in bushings]] <br style="clear:both"/>
Also be sure on dis-assembly you inspected and replaced as necessary the input shaft to output bushing shown here (red arrow).
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[[File:Input shaft to output bushing.jpg|frame|none|Check this bushing for wear, replace with new metal bushing or slip-in plastic insert.]]
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==Rear planetary unit install==
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==Install drive shell and front planetary unit==
Next goes in the output planetary to output ring gear bearing or thrust washer (depending on year).
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Drop the sun shell/gear in, spinning in the output carrier until it falls in place.
  
Then the planetary unit. Replace the bushing in this planet.
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[[File:T-350_front_planet_with_bearing.jpg|thumb|300px|left|This shows drive shell installed with planet and thrust washer in place]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
[[file:TH350planet.jpg]]
 
  
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Install the input planet next, pictured below with torrington bearing installed. The design of the OE planet determines bearing or thrust washer use. A bearing will not fit a thrust washer design planetary unit with out machine work.
  
Now you can install the low/reverse clutches, beginning with a steel, then a friction, alternating, ending with a friction.
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[[File:T-350_front_planet.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Front planet with torrington bearing in place]] <br style="clear:both"/>
[[file:TH350lowclutchesinstalled.jpg]]
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'''Note here:'''
 
If you have a light duty core with low count low pack, unless it is a transbrake application or will be manually shifted into low for engine braking often, fewer clutches is OK. In some cases where you are after every last bit of ET, using fewer clutches can cause less frictional loss in 2nd and high gear. "Turbulator" steel plates from a 4L60E will also help and are a direct drop-in.
 
I am using Alto red frictions in this unit, however a stock tan clutch (I prefer Borg Warner) is more than adequate for even very high HP cars. A Hi-Energy Borg from a 4L60E is also a good choice.
 
  
Once the low clutches are installed, you can install the anti-clunk spring (or case-saver). Both are pictured, the case-saver is solid and spreads the load over a larger area. Hold in place with assembly gel or vaseline and then install the low support.
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To prevent excessive end play, a pump thrust washer can be installed on top of the input planet, then the regular thrust washer. Then install the small outside snap ring to hold it all in place.
Be sure the low sprag inner race is not brinelled or has any unusual wear.
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[[file:TH350lowsupportcasesaver.jpg|frame|none|Photo shows OEM anti-rattle spring and a replacement piece known as a case saver used in cases with heavy wear in case lugs.]]
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+
 
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Once it is pushed into place, install the snap ring, with the ends on each side of the spring or case-saver.
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Now is the time to air check the low clutches. You do so by applying pressurized air to the passage at the rear pan area of the worm casting in the case.
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[[file:T-350_anti-rattle_spring.jpg|frame|none|Anti rattle (clunk) spring shown in correct location, use assembly grease to hold in place.]]
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[[file:T-350_center_support.jpg|frame|none|Center support, inner race, thrust washer shown.]]
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Check the output shaft for proper rotation, there will be some drag, especially in one direction.
  
Next you install the 4-tang thrust washer into the large splines of the low sprag inner race (picture above), and then the sun shell and gear assembly. Before this step, for HD use, you would have wanted to install additional sun gear bushings, 2 on each end, and re-drilled the lube holes.
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Check for excessive output end play. If end play is excessive, it can be tightened up by dis-assembling and shimming up the output ring gear bearing from the case.
Shown here.
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[[file:TH350sungearbushings.jpg|frame|none|Double bushings installed. You MUST drill oil holes in bushings.]]
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 +
Now you drop the input ring gear on, spinning into place.
  
==Install drive shell and front planetary unit==
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Then install the 3-tang thrust washer onto the top ring gear.
Drop the sun shell/gear in, spinning in the output carrier until it falls in place.
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[[file:TH350inputplanetthrust.jpg|frame|none|This shows drive shell installed with planet and thrust washer in place.]]
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 +
[[File:3_tang_whr_t-350.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Front ring gear with 3-tang thrust washer in place]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
Install the input planet next, pictured below with thrust washer installed.
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Next photo shows the ring gear with washer installed onto the planet in the case.
[[file:T-350_front_planet.jpg|frame|none|Front planet with thrust washer in place.]]
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 +
[[File:T-350_ring_gear_with_washer.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Front ring gear with 3-tang thrust washer in place installed into case on front planet]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
Now, To prevent excessive end play, a pump thrust washer can be installed on top of the input planet, then the regular thrust washer. Then install the small outside snap ring to hold it all in place.
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==T-350 Direct drum assembly==
Check the output shaft for proper rotation, there will be some drag, especially in one direction.
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Check for excessive output end play. If end play is excessive, it can be tightened up by dis-assembling and shimming up the output ring gear bearing from the case.
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Now you drop the input ring gear on, spinning into place.
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Then install the 3-tang thrust washer onto the top ring gear.
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[[file:3_tang_whr_t-350.jpg|frame|none|Front ring gear with 3 tang thrust washer in place.]]
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==Direct drum assembly==
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For racing and heavy towing use, you will want to machine the direct clutch piston down approximately 0.160" to allow for one extra friction and steel plate for a total of 5 frictions, and 5 steels in the directs. This can be accomplished on a brake lathe.
 
For racing and heavy towing use, you will want to machine the direct clutch piston down approximately 0.160" to allow for one extra friction and steel plate for a total of 5 frictions, and 5 steels in the directs. This can be accomplished on a brake lathe.
  
Stock measurement is 0.835", I cut them to 0.700". Ideally you would pre-assemble, and check clearance using a 4 clutch pack. Measure the additional thickness of the extra friction and steel, then cut the exact amount needed to leave you the exact clearance you desire. Rule of thumb on most auto trans friction clearances is ~0.010" clearance per friction. So a 5 friction direct setup would work great with 0.050" to 0.070" clearance. It will work with less, I wouldn't go less than 0.040", and will work with quite a bit more, but excessive clearance can result in delayed engagement, busted lip seals, and unsatisfactory shift quality.
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Stock measurement is 0.835", machining the piston to 0.685" to 0.720" will allow the use of 5 frictions using 0.070" steels. Ideally you would pre-assemble, and check clearance using a 4 clutch pack. Measure the additional thickness of the extra friction and steel, then cut the exact amount needed to leave you the exact clearance you desire. Rule of thumb for most auto transmission clutch pack clearance is 0.010" clearance per friction. So a 5 friction direct setup would work well with 0.050" to 0.070" clearance. It will work with less, but no less than 0.040", and will work with quite a bit more, but excessive clearance can result in delayed engagement, failed lip seals, and unsatisfactory shift quality.
  
 
If the piston is too low, the bottom flat steel plate can drop below the grooves in the drum and bind up the piston. You can leave out center cushion seal if dual feed is used.  
 
If the piston is too low, the bottom flat steel plate can drop below the grooves in the drum and bind up the piston. You can leave out center cushion seal if dual feed is used.  
 
   
 
   
[[file:TH350directpistons.jpg]]
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[[File:T-350_direct_piston.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 direct clutch drum pistons, piston on left cut for 5 friction use]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
The HD applications should also get a heat treated intermediate sprag race. It is darker colored than a stock piece. The intermediate sprag race and intermediate sprag (actually roller clutch) take a brutal amount of force on a 1-2 shift at high rpm. Even more so with harsher shift calibrations. It is the single weakest part of a T-350. This is not to say a T-350 is not tough; they are under-rated and can reliably handle in the 600 HP or lb/ft range based on my experience.
+
Heavy duty applications should also get a heat treated intermediate sprag race. The heat treatment makes the race less brittle. A heat treated intermediate sprag race is darker colored than a stock part. The T-350 intermediate sprag race and sprag (actually a roller clutch) take a brutal amount of force on a 1-2 shift at high rpm. Even more so with harsher shift calibrations. It is the single weakest part of a TH350. This is not to say a TH350 is not tough; they can reliably handle power in the 600 HP or lb/ft range if properly assembled using the right parts.
  
 
[[file:TH350intspragraces.jpg]]
 
[[file:TH350intspragraces.jpg]]
  
  
An even heavier duty direct drum/sprag assembly is available. It uses a 36 element sprag and a machined drum, it will withstand more torque than a stock unit or one w/just a hardened race. These units can cost upwards of $300.00.
+
Several companies offer an even heavier duty direct drum/sprag assembly. It uses a 36 element sprag (similar to what is used in the TH400) and a machined drum; it will withstand more torque than a stock unit or one with just a hardened race. These units can cost $300.00 or more.  
[[File:ATI direct drum and sprag.jpg|thumb|300px|left|ATI TH350 direct clutch drum with HD 36 element sprag]] <br style="clear:both"/>
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 +
[[File:T-350_HD_drum_sprag.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 direct clutch drum with 36 element sprag]] <br style="clear:both"/>
 
   
 
   
I also like to always use a NEW intermediate roller clutch for HD builds. My theory on a long lived setup is that the springs that force the rollers against the race must be in good condition to help the rollers grab quicker and more evenly on apply.
+
 
 +
It is recommended to always use a new intermediate roller clutch for HD builds. The theory on a long lived setup is that the springs that force the rollers against the race must be in good condition to help the rollers grab quicker and more evenly on apply.
  
 
The parts go on the direct drum.
 
The parts go on the direct drum.
  
[[file:TH350directdrumnsprag.jpg]]
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[[File:T-350 drum sprag race.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 direct clutch drum with sprag, race, retainer]] <br style="clear:both"/>
 
+
  
 
Assembled direct drum sprag and race with retainer.
 
Assembled direct drum sprag and race with retainer.
  
[[file:TH350intspragassemb.jpg]]
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[[File:T-350_drum_sprag_assembled.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 direct clutch drum with assembled sprag, race, retainer]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
The direct drum should use a wider bushing even on stock rebuilds. Stock is 0.500" a wider 0.750" is available in some bushing kits. Most bushing kits include the wide one. There is a lot of load on this bushing, and it should ALWAYS be replaced on overhaul.
+
The T-350 direct drum should use a wider bushing even on stock rebuilds. Stock is 0.500" a wider 0.750" is available in some bushing kits. Most bushing kits include the wide one. There is a lot of load on this bushing, and it should ALWAYS be replaced on overhaul.
  
[[File:TH350directbushings1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|The direct drum should use a wider bushing even on stock rebuilds.]] <br style="clear:both"/>
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[[File:TH350directbushings1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The T-350 direct drum should use a wider bushing even on stock rebuilds]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
Also check the inside bore of the drum for wear from the sealing rings. A small amount of wear can be honed out. Visual shiny spots with no detectable wear are OK.
+
Also check the inside bore of the drum for wear from the sealing rings. A small amount of wear can be honed out. Visual shiny spots with no detectable wear are acceptable.
  
[[File:TH350directdrumbushing1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|]] <br style="clear:both"/>
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[[File:T-350_direct_drum_bushing.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 Direct drum with wide bushing, piston, springs and retainer installed]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
Next you will install the direct piston lip seals, and install the piston in the drum.
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Next you will install the direct piston lip seals, and install the piston in the drum. Take note of the orientation of the seals, the lip will face towards the "oil" side of the piston, not the clutch side.
  
[[File:TH350directpistonseals1.jpg|thumb|400px|left]] <br style="clear:both"/>
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Below is a high performance T-350 piston for a drum without a center seal that would separate the two halves of the direct piston.
  
Take note of the orientation of the seals, the lip will face towards the "oil" side of the piston, not the clutch side.
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[[File:TH350directpistonseals1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 Direct piston with lip seals installed]] <br style="clear:both"/>
 
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This is a high performance T-350 and I did NOT install a lip seal in the drum that would separate the two halves of the direct piston.
+
  
 
==Dual feeding==
 
==Dual feeding==
 
This is part of the process of "dual-feeding" the direct clutches. On a stock rebuild you would normally install this lip seal.
 
This is part of the process of "dual-feeding" the direct clutches. On a stock rebuild you would normally install this lip seal.
 +
 
You can do this on any rebuild but you must also block a passage in the case near the pump to prevent loss of pressure to the reverse circuit.
 
You can do this on any rebuild but you must also block a passage in the case near the pump to prevent loss of pressure to the reverse circuit.
  
Line 266: Line 201:
 
Dual feeding doubles the area of the piston that has pressurized fluid on it in 3rd gear, more than doubling the capacity of the clutch. It is accomplished by most valve body kits without doing so internally but requires a "transfer" plate and gasket to be added under the support plate in front of the valve body.
 
Dual feeding doubles the area of the piston that has pressurized fluid on it in 3rd gear, more than doubling the capacity of the clutch. It is accomplished by most valve body kits without doing so internally but requires a "transfer" plate and gasket to be added under the support plate in front of the valve body.
  
I prefer internally dual feeding because it leave out the additional gasket and eliminates that one extra possibility for a pressure loss resulting in burnt 3rd gear clutches (yes it has happened to me).
+
Internally dual feeding is preferred  because it leaves out the additional gasket and eliminates that one extra possibility for a pressure loss resulting in burnt 3rd gear clutches.
All transbrakes will require dual feed of the direct clutch, as well as many manual valve bodies.
+
  
Here is the passage that must be blocked. I usually tap this hole with a 3/8" tap, and cut off the end of a 3/8" bolt. I then slot the head of the bolt so I can use a flat-tip screwdriver.
+
All transbrake applications will require dual feed of the direct clutch, possibly as well as manual valve bodies.
  
I don't thread the passage completely to bottom. I want the "plug" to seat on the unthreaded portion.
+
Shown below is the passage that must be blocked. One method is to tap this hole with a 3/8" tap, and cut off the end of a 3/8" bolt. The head of the bolt can be slotted so a screwdrive can be used.
  
May also use roller from a direct drum or sprag to drive into the passage, will not be able to remove!
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Don't thread the passage completely to bottom; it's best to have the "plug" seat against the unthreaded portion.
  
[[file:Dualfeed.jpg]]
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This passage may also be plugged by using a roller from a direct drum or sprag to drive into the passage, but this will be a more or less permanent modification due to the difficulty in removing the roller.
  
 +
[[File:T-350_dual_feed02.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Plug the hole indicated for dual feed on TH350]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
Also of note, if you are using almost any aftermarket kit, these kits use a feed plate between the support plate in front of the valve body and the separator plate. This feed plate dual feeds the directs and plugging this hole is unnecessary. Also most manual valve bodies, trans-brakes, etc. will have you omit the direct drum center seal and the sealing ring on the stator but plugging of this hole is also unnecessary due to the design of the separator plate.
+
{{Note1}}Don't assume you need to plug this hole. Only plug this hole if you plan on doing the dual feed modification yourself.
 
+
Don't assume you need to plug this hole. Only plug this hole if you plan on building a unit yourself.
+
  
 
You can omit the center seal, plug this passage, enlarge the 2nd and 3rd feed holes in the stock separator plate and you will have greatly increased the torque capacity of a stock TH350 as well as gained a firmer shift.
 
You can omit the center seal, plug this passage, enlarge the 2nd and 3rd feed holes in the stock separator plate and you will have greatly increased the torque capacity of a stock TH350 as well as gained a firmer shift.
  
Even firmer shifts can be accomplished with check ball removal and modifications to the accumulators. I recommend NOT modifying the 1-2 accumulator. Retain the cushion spring and do not block the circuit. The 2-3 accumulator can be blocked by several methods.
+
Almost all aftermarket kits use a feed plate between the support plate in front of the valve body and the separator plate. This feed plate 'dual feeds' the directs, so plugging this hole is unnecessary. Also most manual valve bodies, trans-brakes, etc. will call for omitting the direct drum center seal and the sealing ring on the stator, but plugging this hole is also unnecessary due to the design of the separator plate.
  
Removing the 2-3 accumulator spring and using a spacer (nut, washers, cut down section of tubing) between the piston and the E-clip is the "shade tree' method. You can also block the feed in the valve body to the 2-3 accumulator.
+
Even firmer shifts can be accomplished with check ball removal and modifications to the accumulators. It is recommend to NOT modify the 1-2 accumulator. Retain the cushion spring and do not block the circuit. The 2-3 accumulator can be blocked by several methods.
  
Installing the direct piston will require some patience, a lip seal installed or 0.010" feeler gauge, and a trick I use is a section of plastic cut from a 3 liter soda bottle to use as an outside installer tool. Set it in the drum, and it will force the lip seal into the drum without using a tool around the entire circumference. You may however need to work the exposed part of the seal into the drum with the feeler gauge or seal tool.
+
Removing the 2-3 accumulator spring and using a spacer (nut, washers, cut down section of tubing) between the piston and the E-clip is the "shade tree" method. You can also block the feed in the valve body to the 2-3 accumulator.
  
Use care using the lip seal tool, I use a push-in technique more than a work-around-the-drum technique. If you slide around the drum, and it catches the seal it will cut it and then you must get a new lip seal and start again. Good lighting, patience, and technique are key here, and a good air check.
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Installing the direct piston will require some patience, a lip seal installed or 0.010" feeler gauge, and a trick to use is a section of plastic cut from a 3 liter soda bottle to use as an outside installer tool. Set it in the drum, and it will force the lip seal into the drum without using a tool around the entire circumference. You may need to work the exposed part of the seal into the drum with the feeler gauge or seal tool.
  
Once you have the piston seated in the drum you can install the return springs and retainer.
+
Use care using the lip seal tool. Use a push-in technique more than a work-around-the-drum technique. If you slide around the drum, and it catches the seal, it will cut it and then you must get a new lip seal and start again. Good lighting, patience, and technique are key here, and a be sure to verify using an air check.
  
[[file:TH350directspringtool.jpg]]
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Once you have the piston seated in the drum you can install the return springs and retainer. You can buy or make a tool similar to the one pictured below, or use several 5" or larger C-clamps.
  
You can buy or make a tool similar to the one pictured or use 2-3, 5" or larger C-clamps (much more of a PITA).
+
[[File:T-350_direct_sprng_compress.jpg|thumb|300px|left|One method to compress springs to install the snap ring]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
 
===Forward drum inspection===
 
===Forward drum inspection===
Line 305: Line 238:
 
Pay attention to this polished stub of the input shaft, it goes into the bushing that is in the end of the output shaft. It is a high wear area. Be sure it is smooth. Minor scoring can be smoothed down.  May consider use of teflon bushing, only a lubrication passage, no pressure, no lateral loading.
 
Pay attention to this polished stub of the input shaft, it goes into the bushing that is in the end of the output shaft. It is a high wear area. Be sure it is smooth. Minor scoring can be smoothed down.  May consider use of teflon bushing, only a lubrication passage, no pressure, no lateral loading.
  
[[file:TH350forwardwear.jpg]]
+
[[File:T-350_fwd_drum.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Check forward drum for wear.]]<br style="clear:both"/>
 
+
  
Notice the scraped and split low reverse friction in the intermediate piston cavity. This slightly tightens the intermediate clutch clearance to achieve cleaner 1-2 shift.
+
===T-350 Pump assembly===
 +
'''Notice''' the scraped and split T-350  low reverse friction in the intermediate piston cavity. This slightly tightens the intermediate clutch clearance to achieve cleaner 1-2 shift.
  
[[File:Scraped and split low reverse friction in the intermediate piston cavity..jpg|thumb|600px|left|Scraped and split low reverse friction in the intermediate piston cavity.]]<br style="clear:both"/>
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[[File:T-350_intmed_piston_spacer.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Scraped and split T-350 low reverse friction in the intermediate piston cavity]]<br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
 
Intermediate piston installed.
 
Intermediate piston installed.
  
[[file:TH350intpiston.jpg]]
+
[[File:T-350_pump_n_piston.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 pump with intermediate piston installed]]<br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
Sealing rings on the pump stator. Notice the missing sealing ring 2nd from bottom. You can remove this ring if dual feeding.
+
Sealing rings on the T-350 pump stator. Remove the second ring from the bottom if dual feeding.
  
[[file:TH350pumprings.jpg]]
+
[[File:T-350_stator_rings.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Sealing rings on pump]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
Pump gear install. Note the orientation of the tangs on the inner gear. They are offset. They should face away from the seal. Mis-installation will result in pump failure and converter damage.
+
Pump gear install. Note the orientation of the tangs on the inner gear. They are offset. They should face away from the seal. Incorrect installation will result in pump failure and converter damage.
  
[[file:TH350pumpgears.jpg]]
+
[[File:T-350_pump_half.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Notice the T-350  inner pump gear tangs, they must be '''up''' as seen here]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
 
Notice the dowel pins threaded into the case, you use these and the case to align the pump halves.
 
Notice the dowel pins threaded into the case, you use these and the case to align the pump halves.
  
[[file:TH350pumpalign.jpg]]
+
[[File:T-350_pump_alignment.jpg|thumb|300px|left|One method to align the T-350  pump halves shown]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
This is an example of how I air check the forward and direct drum. After everything is assembled, I place the drums on the pump (above a hole in the bench) with all sealing rings in place, thrust washers or bearings.
+
This is an example of to air check the T-350 forward and direct drum. After everything is assembled, I place the T-350  drums on the pump (above a hole in the bench) with all sealing rings in place, thrust washers or bearings.
  
 
Use a rubber tipped air nozzle to apply air to the passages around the pump circumference. As you apply air to the correct passages, you will see and hear the drums apply the clutches. Be sure there are no leaks from the lip seals. There will usually be some minor leakage at the sealing rings. Iron rings air check better than teflon on the bench.
 
Use a rubber tipped air nozzle to apply air to the passages around the pump circumference. As you apply air to the correct passages, you will see and hear the drums apply the clutches. Be sure there are no leaks from the lip seals. There will usually be some minor leakage at the sealing rings. Iron rings air check better than teflon on the bench.
  
[[file:TH350aircheck.jpg]]
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[[File:T-350_air_check_pump.jpg|thumb|300px|left|One method to air check T-350 clutch drums in the pump shown. Refer to build manual for locations]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
  
Drums installed in the transmission case. Ready for intermediate pressure plate install. Ensure the lugs of the direct drum are engaged with the sun shell. They should be slightly below the top edge of the sun shell. If you do not get complete engagement, the input shaft will not turn when you install the pump and begin to tighten it.
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T-350 Drums installed in the transmission case. Ready for intermediate pressure plate install. Ensure the lugs of the direct drum are engaged with the sun shell. They should be slightly below the top edge of the sun shell. If you do not get complete engagement, the input shaft will not turn when you install the pump and begin to tighten it. You can also see the braking band installed.
  
[[file:Th350drumsinstalled.jpg]]
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[[File:T-350_coast_band01.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Both T-350 clutch drums installed with braking band shown]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
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===Braking band===
 +
Install coasting band aka braking band. This band provides engine braking in manual 2nd gear.This slides in the case around the direct drum. Check band for wear at the struts. The servo pin can wear a hole through the strut.
  
Brass screened filter allows for more flow. Avoid the cloth looking material filters for the T-350
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[[File:T-350_coasting_band.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Check band for wear in the area the servo pin rides]]<br style="clear:both"/>
  
[[file:TH350HPfilter.jpg]]
 
  
 +
There are HD versions of this braking band. These HD bands should have welded reinforced band struts as show in photo.
  
Here's a pic of the feed holes. These regulate the amount of fluid, or how fast, it can apply the clutches. Drilling them bigger allows a faster apply. However, bigger is not always better.
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[[File:T-350_HD__braking_band.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Heavy duty brake band should have weld reinforced struts]]<br style="clear:both"/>
  
[[file:TH350feedholes.jpg]]
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=T-350 Intermediate clutch=
 +
6 cylinder applications use an intermediate piston measuring 1.175"-1.185" thick. The 6 cylinder uses two frictions.
  
Remember that as the load increases on the trans, so does the pressure. The increase in pressure will cause the fluid to move faster and shifts to be firmer. If you drill the holes too big the shifts become too harsh at light throttle openings. This causes undue wear on the internal transmission parts, rear differential and axles, drive line and u-joints.
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The V8 T-350  intermediate uses three frictions. The T-350 piston is about 0.990" thick.  
  
The ideal situation is a shift that gets progressively harder with greater throttle openings. I recommend drilling the 2nd feed to 0.125" and the 3rd feed from 0.125"-0.140"
+
The wavy cushion plate should be used.
  
 +
There are two types of intermediate return spring/retainers. With the early type you had to manually place the loose springs onto the piston's spring locator bosses,then the retainer went over that. The later retainer has the springs attached to their respective retainers (the bosses are not used). So if the intermediate piston is smooth, use the retainer with the springs attached to it. The late retainers will work in a transmission that originally used the early type retainer, but not vice versa.
  
Also note the 2-3 accumulator hole marked in the upper portion. This hole can be blocked but it is easier to block the passage in the VB or the 2-3 accumulator piston as previously mentioned.
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==T-350 Intermediate clutch clearance==
 +
After the pump is set into place to test end play clearance, you can also check the clutch clearance on the intermediate clutch pack. Clearance of 0.050" to 0.070" will work well. There are thicker intermediate steel plates available if need to tighten up the clutch pack clearance. T-350 Intermediate steels are available  in 0.068", 0.078" and 0.089" thicknesses, some manufacturers may use slightly different thicknesses than these.  
  
=Governor=
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Also, a T-350 scraped low-reverse friction can be used under the intermediate piston if need be. A scraped T-350 friction will measure about 0.032".
Photo of the T-350 governor and cover. Note the direction of the plastic drive gear teeth. If the plastic gear breaks or wears out, there will be no upshifts since the governor is not rotating.
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+
[[file:T-350_governor.jpg]]
+
  
 +
[[File:T-350_intermed_clearance_ck.jpg|thumb|300px|left|T-350 intermediate clutch pack clearance can be checked through this hole]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
 +
=Valve body=
 
==Valve body gasket check==
 
==Valve body gasket check==
 
Always check the valve body gaskets against the separator plate to see if any holes in the plate are covered by the gasket. Place the gasket behind the plate and hold both up at light to check for covered holes.
 
Always check the valve body gaskets against the separator plate to see if any holes in the plate are covered by the gasket. Place the gasket behind the plate and hold both up at light to check for covered holes.
Line 375: Line 312:
 
This gasket on a T-350 sits against the valve body. Notice the open line in the gasket that will parallel the support plate that bolts on at front of the valve body.
 
This gasket on a T-350 sits against the valve body. Notice the open line in the gasket that will parallel the support plate that bolts on at front of the valve body.
  
[[file:T-350_v-body_gasket02.jpg|frame|none| notice the open line in the gasket, this gasket installs against valve body, not the case]]
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[[file:T-350_v-body_gasket02.jpg|frame|none|Notice the open line in the gasket, this gasket installs against valve body, not the case]]
  
 +
==Valve body modifications==
 +
Removing check balls and opening up orifices in the separator plate is a common modification to firm up shifts. Just remember the one check ball that needs to stay is the one just below the modulator.
 +
 +
==Separator plate==
 +
Below is a picture of the feed holes. These regulate the amount of fluid, or how fast it can apply the clutches. Drilling them bigger allows a faster apply. However, bigger is not always better.
 +
 +
[[file:T-350feedholes.jpg]]
 +
 +
Remember that as the load increases on the trans, so does the pressure. The increase in pressure will cause the fluid to move faster and shifts to be firmer. If you drill the holes ''too'' big the shifts become too harsh at light throttle openings. This causes undue wear on the internal transmission parts, rear differential and axles, drive line and u-joints.
 +
 +
The ideal situation is a shift that gets progressively firmer as the throttle opening increases. Drilling the 2nd feed hole to 0.125" and the 3rd feed hole to 0.125"-0.140" works well for many applications.
 +
 +
Also note above the 2-3 accumulator hole marked in the upper portion. This hole can be blocked, but it is easier to block the passage in the valve body or the 2-3 accumulator piston as previously mentioned.
 +
 +
===Shift kits===
 +
Often shift improver kits are installed at the time of the tranny rebuild. Various manufacturers make shift improver kits, TransGo has a good reputation.
  
 
==Racing valve body==
 
==Racing valve body==
 
Coan reverse manual valve body. Notice the machining of passages. Please note the DIY cannot just mill the valve body as valves have also been changed in the valve body.
 
Coan reverse manual valve body. Notice the machining of passages. Please note the DIY cannot just mill the valve body as valves have also been changed in the valve body.
  
[[file:TH350reverseVB.jpg]]
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[[file:T-350reverseVB.jpg]]
  
==Fastener size and torque values==
+
=Governor=
*Pump Cover to Pump Body- (5/16-18) 15 ft/lb
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Image below of an OEM T-350 governor and cover.
*Pump assembly to case- (5/16-18) 20 ft/lb
+
 
*Valve body and support plate- (5/16-18) 13 ft/lb
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[[file:T-350_governor.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Note the direction of the plastic drive gear teeth. If the plastic gear breaks or wears out, there will be no upshifts since the governor is not rotating.]]<br style="clear:both"/>
*Oil channel support plate to case- (5/16-18) 13 ft/lb
+
 
*Parking lock bracket- (5/16-18) 29 ft/lb
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==Shift point changes==
 +
 
 +
===Governor adjustment===
 +
Shift point changes made via the governor weights and springs. Stronger springs and heavier weights will bring earlier shift points. Lighter springs and weights have the opposite affect.
 +
 
 +
The springs have a greater affect on shift points at light throttle. After about 5/8 throttle the weights have more affect on shift points. Gear ratio and tire size will also play  apart of the shift points and changes made.
 +
 
 +
[[File:Bm goc recal kit.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Governor recalibration kit]] <br style="clear:both"/>
 +
 
 +
=Filter=
 +
Brass screened filter allows for more flow. Avoid the cloth looking material filters for the T-350
 +
 
 +
[[file:T-350HPfilter.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
=Vacuum modulator=
 +
The vacuum modulator senses vacuum in the intake manifold as an indicator of engine load. As the throttle is opened, vacuum decreases. The modulator on the transmission will raise the main line pressure in the transmission
 +
 
 +
[[File:T-350_modulators.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Two types of modulators shown. Low vacuum design on left, ID by the black and red strips. It has a larger diameter, too.]] <br style="clear:both"/>
 +
 
 +
=Fastener size and torque values=
 +
*Pump cover to pump body- (5/16-18) 15 ft/lb
 +
*Pump assembly to case- (5/16-18) 15 ft/lb
 +
*Valve body and support plate- (5/16-18) 10 ft/lb
 +
*Oil channel support plate to case- (5/16-18) 10 ft/lb
 +
*Parking lock bracket- (5/16-18) 20 ft/lb
 
*Oil suction screen- 40 in/lb
 
*Oil suction screen- 40 in/lb
*Oil pan to case- (5/16-18) 13 ft/lb
+
*Oil pan to case- (5/16-18) 10-12 ft/lb
 
*Extension housing to case- (3/8-16) 35 ft/lb
 
*Extension housing to case- (3/8-16) 35 ft/lb
 
*Modulator retainer to case- (5/16-18) 12 ft/lb
 
*Modulator retainer to case- (5/16-18) 12 ft/lb
*Inner Selector Lever to Shaft- (M10-1.5) 27 Nm (20 ft/lb)
+
*Inner selector lever to shaft- (M10-1.5) 27 Nm (20 ft/lb)
 
*External test plugs to case- (1/8-27) 8 ft/lb
 
*External test plugs to case- (1/8-27) 8 ft/lb
 
*Transmission mount to transmission (M10-1.5) 48 Nm (35 ft/lb)
 
*Transmission mount to transmission (M10-1.5) 48 Nm (35 ft/lb)
*Speedo sleeve retainer on extension housing- (M6.3-1.0) 17 Nm (150 in/lb)  
+
*Speedometer sleeve retainer on extension housing- (M6.3-1.0) 17 Nm (150 in/lb)  
 
*Detent cable to case- (M6.3-1.0) 8.5 Nm (75 in/lb)
 
*Detent cable to case- (M6.3-1.0) 8.5 Nm (75 in/lb)
 
*Nut on outer end of shift selector shaft- (M10-1.5) 27 Nm (20 ft/lb)
 
*Nut on outer end of shift selector shaft- (M10-1.5) 27 Nm (20 ft/lb)
*Converter to Flexplate Bolts- 35 ft/lb
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*Converter to flexplate bolts- 35 ft/lb
 
*Torque converter dust cover pan to transmission case- 110 in/lb
 
*Torque converter dust cover pan to transmission case- 110 in/lb
*Transmission Case to Engine- 35 ft/lb
+
*Transmission case to engine- 35 ft/lb
  
====Oil cooler line connectors to transmission case====
+
==Oil cooler line connectors to transmission case==
*Straight Pipe Fitting-25 ft/lb
+
*Straight pipe fitting- 20 ft/lb
*Tapered Pipe Fitting- 15 ft/lb
+
*Tapered pipe fitting- 15 ft/lb
*Oil Cooler Pipe to Connectors- 10 ft/lb
+
*Oil cooler pipe to connectors- 10 ft/lb
  
====Other torque values====
+
==Other torque values==
 
*Gearshift bracket to frame- 15 ft/lb
 
*Gearshift bracket to frame- 15 ft/lb
 
*Gearshift Shaft to Swivel- 20 ft/lb
 
*Gearshift Shaft to Swivel- 20 ft/lb
 
*Manual Shaft to Bracket- 20 ft/lb
 
*Manual Shaft to Bracket- 20 ft/lb
*Detent Cable to Transmission- 75 in/lb
 
 
*Intermediate Band Adjust Nut- 15 ft/lb
 
*Intermediate Band Adjust Nut- 15 ft/lb
  
[[Category:Transmission]]
+
=T-350 dimensions and tailshaft housing (or ''extension'' housing) lengths=
[[Category:Good articles]]
+
 
 +
[[File:TH350 dimensions.jpg|thumb|left|400px|]]<br style="clear:both"/>
 +
 
 +
You will find the T-350 with 6", 9" and 12" tail housings.
 +
 
 +
There is also two 4WD output shaft lengths, the shortest and more common is seen below. A longer 4x4 output shaft was used for around 1.5 years. It is a 2WD shaft of 6 inch length that is cut off about 1.250 inches. Used on 208 transfer case with adapter.
 +
 
 +
[[File:3504WD output.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
=Gear ratios=
 +
Ratios of the T-350 were consistent throughout its production:
 +
 
 +
*First gear- 2.52:1
 +
*Second gear- 1.52:1
 +
*Third gear- 1.00:1
 +
*Reverse- 1.93:1
 +
 
 +
=Aftermarket parts=
 +
*An aftermarket low-gear planetary is available that will lower the first gear ratio to 2.75:1.
 +
 
 +
=Reference material=
 +
[[File:Sessions- ATSG-Haynes manuals.jpg|thumb|600px|left|Left to right: [http://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Hydra-Matic-350-Handbook-Sessions/dp/0895860511 Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 Handbook] by Ron Sessions; [http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=786 ATSG manual] p/n 44400; Haynes [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1563924234/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0895860511&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0J4A1QHT1Y8B032P3Z6P GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul] manual, p/n 10360.]] <br>
 +
 
 +
 
 +
[[Category:GM]]

Latest revision as of 07:52, 1 September 2023

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