Editing Rust
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− | + | =What causes rust?= | |
− | + | qoOpBG <a href="http://vrwzptxclctf.com/">vrwzptxclctf</a>, [url=http://fwbyrarngcpp.com/]fwbyrarngcpp[/url], [link=http://vtbhllpjzrqa.com/]vtbhllpjzrqa[/link], http://jeysrvehrywy.com/ | |
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=Rust assessment= | =Rust assessment= | ||
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The "best" way to handle surface rust on an entire body is to have it professionally dipped, often at a cost of over $1000. This amount of money may not be available for a specific project, or it may be impractical to invest it. | The "best" way to handle surface rust on an entire body is to have it professionally dipped, often at a cost of over $1000. This amount of money may not be available for a specific project, or it may be impractical to invest it. | ||
− | If you take time to properly | + | If you take time to properly asses your own rust situation, you can choose a well-thought out solution that's "best" for you. |
==Areas to assess== | ==Areas to assess== | ||
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===Tools=== | ===Tools=== | ||
− | Besides basic hand tools, do you have | + | Besides basic hand tools, do you have access to a DA sander? Media blaster? Spot blaster? Blast cabinet? Spray gun? |
===Cost=== | ===Cost=== | ||
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===Miscellaneous (need to be sorted)=== | ===Miscellaneous (need to be sorted)=== | ||
*[http://www.tat-co.com/product.asp?ID=154 Body-Tec amber rustproofing]. 24 oz spray can. manufac: " Light viscosity allows material to flow into hard to reach areas easily. Ideal for core supports, sheet metal, frames etc" | *[http://www.tat-co.com/product.asp?ID=154 Body-Tec amber rustproofing]. 24 oz spray can. manufac: " Light viscosity allows material to flow into hard to reach areas easily. Ideal for core supports, sheet metal, frames etc" | ||
− | *[http://www.d-rust-it.com | + | *D-Rust-It [http://www.d-rust-it.com]Superior product also available in concentrate. |
*Amsoil HD | *Amsoil HD | ||
*Slicksand | *Slicksand | ||
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*Duro Extend | *Duro Extend | ||
*Devoe Bar-Rust | *Devoe Bar-Rust | ||
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*Loctite Extend Rust Treatment | *Loctite Extend Rust Treatment | ||
− | *Rustoleum (generally considered a poor choice for automotive applications. Good for cheap shop shelving, etc. | + | *Rustoleum (generally considered a poor choice for automotive applications. Good for cheap shop shelving, etc. |
*[http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/body_interior_trim/auto_Permatex_Rust_Treatment.htm Permatex Rust Treatment] | *[http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/body_interior_trim/auto_Permatex_Rust_Treatment.htm Permatex Rust Treatment] | ||
*[http://ridrust.com/ RidRust] | *[http://ridrust.com/ RidRust] | ||
*[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler Rust Fighter] | *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler Rust Fighter] | ||
*DuPont 5717S Metal Conditioner | *DuPont 5717S Metal Conditioner | ||
− | * | + | *http://www.rustx.com/ |
*[http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm Jasco] | *[http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm Jasco] | ||
*Prep-sol | *Prep-sol | ||
*[http://www.napasco.com/enrustreat.htm Mar-Hyde Rust Converter] | *[http://www.napasco.com/enrustreat.htm Mar-Hyde Rust Converter] | ||
*Rust N-M-E | *Rust N-M-E | ||
− | * | + | *http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=2182 |
+ | *[http://www.d-rust-it.com/ rust removal concentrate] | ||
*[http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/ Hammerite] | *[http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/ Hammerite] | ||
*[http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/ Fluid Film] | *[http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/ Fluid Film] | ||
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*Rust-Check | *Rust-Check | ||
*[http://www.evaporust.com/ Evapo-Rust Rust Remover] | *[http://www.evaporust.com/ Evapo-Rust Rust Remover] | ||
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*[http://www.corroless.com/ Corroless] | *[http://www.corroless.com/ Corroless] | ||
*[http://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm Klean Strip Rust Converter] | *[http://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm Klean Strip Rust Converter] | ||
− | *[http://www.zerorust.com/ Zero Rust] -- [http://www.zerorust.com/tech.htm tech page], [http://www.zerorust.com/faq.htm faq]. Rust cleaning product is "prep-step", and clearcoat is called "crystal coat" | + | *[http://www.zerorust.com/ Zero Rust] -- [http://www.zerorust.com/tech.htm tech page], [http://www.zerorust.com/faq.htm faq]. Rust cleaning product is "prep-step", and clearcoat is called "crystal coat" |
*Rust Reformer | *Rust Reformer | ||
*[http://www.rustbullet.com Rust Bullet] | *[http://www.rustbullet.com Rust Bullet] | ||
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*DuPont Vari-Prime | *DuPont Vari-Prime | ||
*All-Metal | *All-Metal | ||
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===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ||
− | After using an acid to remove rust, flush the surface with water and baking soda | + | After using an acid to remove rust, flush the surface with water and baking soda (confirm or expand on this). |
When converting/neutralizing rust: | When converting/neutralizing rust: | ||
− | # Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better) | + | # Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better) |
− | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing | + | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing phospheric acid or another type of acid shold be used |
− | # Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it | + | # Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it |
− | # Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing | + | # Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing |
− | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the | + | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the brisles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint so again use caution. |
Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | ||
− | Don't use battery acid (sulfuric | + | Don't use battery acid (sulfuric acid) for rust removal. It's too dangerous, and there are many more effective chemicals. |
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− | *[http://rustbeeter.com/ Rustbeeter] Merchant description: A byproduct of the sugar refining process. Probably similar to molasses. Parts must be submerged. Parts soak in a bucket for usually under a week, but as long as several weeks. Food product. Dry powder that gets mixed with water. Non-acidic or caustic. After use, parts are cleaned with | + | *[http://rustbeeter.com/ Rustbeeter] Merchant description: A byproduct of the sugar refining process. Probably similar to molasses. Parts must be submerged. Parts soak in a bucket for usually under a week, but as long as several weeks. Food product. Dry powder that gets mixed with water. Non-acidic or caustic. After use, parts are cleaned with dishsoap and water, dried, and coated. |
*[http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php Must for Rust] Merchant description: removes rust and corrosion, non-caustic to skin, needs no neutralizing, primer goes right over it. $28/gallon. | *[http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php Must for Rust] Merchant description: removes rust and corrosion, non-caustic to skin, needs no neutralizing, primer goes right over it. $28/gallon. | ||
− | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=15974 Eastwood Rust Converter] Merchant description: 2-part mix, adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be | + | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=15974 Eastwood Rust Converter] Merchant description: 2-part mix, adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be topcoated with most coatings. 1 gallon each of the 2-part mix is $125. |
*[http://www.rust-cure.com/ Rust Cure] Merchant description: phosphoric acid-based. leaves a thin film that bonds well with most primers and paints. for pricing, need to see this page: http://rustcure.bizland.com/xwheretobuy.html . | *[http://www.rust-cure.com/ Rust Cure] Merchant description: phosphoric acid-based. leaves a thin film that bonds well with most primers and paints. for pricing, need to see this page: http://rustcure.bizland.com/xwheretobuy.html . | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1124&itemType=PRODUCT Oxisolv Rust Remover] Merchant description: dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Spray/brush/dip. Non-toxic, non-flammable, and re-usable. Must be cleaned off before priming. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1124&itemType=PRODUCT Oxisolv Rust Remover] Merchant description: dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Spray/brush/dip. Non-toxic, non-flammable, and re-usable. Must be cleaned off before priming. | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11122&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Rust Dissolver] Merchant description: acid free rust remover, leaves surface ready to paint, plate, or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts, and harmless to copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Surface must remain wet for product to work. $40/gallon. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11122&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Rust Dissolver] Merchant description: acid free rust remover, leaves surface ready to paint, plate, or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts, and harmless to copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Surface must remain wet for product to work. $40/gallon. | ||
*[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164 Rust-Mort] Merchant's description: "Converts rust to a black or grayish, hard, insoluble, protective coating". | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164 Rust-Mort] Merchant's description: "Converts rust to a black or grayish, hard, insoluble, protective coating". | ||
− | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=206 SEM Rust-Seal] | + | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=206 SEM Rust-Seal] Manufac descrip: "Transforms rust leaving a tough, permanent, black protective coating. RUST-SEAL can be left exposed or may be topcoated with enamels, lacquers or urethanes." |
− | + | (Make sure that none of the above count as "encapsulators". Also, what about the converters that leave a "protective film" on the metal. They say that they don't need neutralization, and they don't need to be washed off. Is this as good as cleaning to bare metal, and then hitting with epoxy primer?) | |
*Vinegar | *Vinegar | ||
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*[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GS3H3CPLMLbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter application wand] | *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GS3H3CPLMLbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter application wand] | ||
*[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter] | *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter] | ||
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*You can make your own basic rust protection coating from 1 part anhydrous lanolin (available from a pharmacy), and 5 parts paint thinner. | *You can make your own basic rust protection coating from 1 part anhydrous lanolin (available from a pharmacy), and 5 parts paint thinner. | ||
*For machine tools, this is recommended: http://www.clclubricants.com/waylubes.htm . | *For machine tools, this is recommended: http://www.clclubricants.com/waylubes.htm . | ||
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''Main article: [[Epoxy primer]].'' | ''Main article: [[Epoxy primer]].'' | ||
− | Epoxy primer/sealer is a non-porous finish that is typically recommended as the first basecoat over bare steel. Various epoxy primers can also be applied over | + | Epoxy primer/sealer is a non-porous finish that is typically recommended as the first basecoat over bare steel. Various epoxy primers can also be applied over fiberglass, plastic, or the black iron phosphate coating that remains after "converting" rust. |
Epoxy primer is a two-part mix, with a hardener that has to be added before spraying. Body fillers and high-build primers can be used on top of epoxy primer. | Epoxy primer is a two-part mix, with a hardener that has to be added before spraying. Body fillers and high-build primers can be used on top of epoxy primer. | ||
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===Metal washes, wax and grease removers=== | ===Metal washes, wax and grease removers=== | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=258&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C458%2C467%2C473&KickerID=39&KICKER Eastwood Metal Wash]. Merchant's description: dry compound that is mixed with water. removes grease and oils from bare metal, and leaves behind corrosion inhibitors that prevent flash rusting and promote paint adhesion. $11 for enough dry mix to make 7 quarts. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=258&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C458%2C467%2C473&KickerID=39&KICKER Eastwood Metal Wash]. Merchant's description: dry compound that is mixed with water. removes grease and oils from bare metal, and leaves behind corrosion inhibitors that prevent flash rusting and promote paint adhesion. $11 for enough dry mix to make 7 quarts. | ||
− | *[http://www.aerospace.henkel.com/index.cfm?ID=178 Metalprep 79] | + | *[http://www.aerospace.henkel.com/index.cfm?ID=178 Metalprep 79] manufac: phosphoric acid-based cleaner. leaves surface chemically clean and corrosion free. thoroughly rinse with water when done. brush/spray/dip |
*Is DuPont's "Quick-Prep" equivalent to Metalprep? | *Is DuPont's "Quick-Prep" equivalent to Metalprep? | ||
− | Read this thread thoroughly: | + | Read this thread thoroughly: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-else-wax-grease-remover-besides-mineral-spirits-51150.html |
The following are not to be used as metal cleaners: lacquer thinner, acetone, reducers. Use the product within the recommendations of your product system. Cleaners typically vary as to strength, and time they take to evaporate. | The following are not to be used as metal cleaners: lacquer thinner, acetone, reducers. Use the product within the recommendations of your product system. Cleaners typically vary as to strength, and time they take to evaporate. | ||
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*Sand paper. 36 grit to 220 grit. | *Sand paper. 36 grit to 220 grit. | ||
*Wire wheel on drill. When the wire bristles start to bend one way, reverse the drill and work in the other direction for a while. | *Wire wheel on drill. When the wire bristles start to bend one way, reverse the drill and work in the other direction for a while. | ||
− | *Wire wheel on grinder, or, these discs are considered to be superior to wire wheels: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=H55CPWS904gl&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=RCM96XTX07be&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_portal&PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M clean & strip disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSGKXWRKYVbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler 3M bristle disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSVDY2CZYDbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv Surface Conditioning Disc] | + | *Wire wheel on grinder, or, these discs are considered to be superior to wire wheels: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=H55CPWS904gl&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=RCM96XTX07be&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_portal&PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M clean & strip disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSGKXWRKYVbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler 3M bristle disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSVDY2CZYDbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv Surface Conditioning Disc] |
*Scotch-brite pads | *Scotch-brite pads | ||
*Steel toothbrush | *Steel toothbrush | ||
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*Steel wool | *Steel wool | ||
− | + | Tips | |
− | *When using a wire wheel, don't sit in one spot for too long -- | + | *When using a wire wheel, don't sit in one spot for too long -- it will warp the metal. |
==Methods== | ==Methods== | ||
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#Sand with 180 grit. | #Sand with 180 grit. | ||
#Use wax and grease remover, and then spray with epoxy primer. | #Use wax and grease remover, and then spray with epoxy primer. | ||
− | #From there, you can apply body filler (the epoxy may need to be scuffed, read instructions) | + | #From there, you can apply body filler (the epoxy may need to be scuffed, read instructions) |
#When the filler work is done, scuff with a red scotch-brite pad. | #When the filler work is done, scuff with a red scotch-brite pad. | ||
#Then, apply two more coats of epoxy, followed by high-build primer. | #Then, apply two more coats of epoxy, followed by high-build primer. | ||
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====Getting the entire vehicle body dipped==== | ====Getting the entire vehicle body dipped==== | ||
− | + | Need more info on Redi-Strip. What chemical do they use? What's the cost? Can a hobbyist acquire and use the same chemical that Redi-Strip uses? When the body is returned to you, is it truly completely clean, or does it have to be cleaned to get all of the chemical removed from nooks and crannies, etc.? | |
====Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)==== | ====Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)==== | ||
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====Storing body panels==== | ====Storing body panels==== | ||
− | Use epoxy primer ( | + | Use epoxy primer (AKA epoxy primer/sealer), it won't allow rust. Not the same as regular primer. |
Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. | Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. | ||
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====Rusted window channels==== | ====Rusted window channels==== | ||
− | + | Difficult to fabricate, need more info on this. | |
===Vinyl tops=== | ===Vinyl tops=== | ||
Rust is common in vinyl tops. The vinyl gets porous after a few years, and lets in moisture. | Rust is common in vinyl tops. The vinyl gets porous after a few years, and lets in moisture. | ||
− | + | How to prevent? | |
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===Leaf spring rust=== | ===Leaf spring rust=== | ||
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===Cleaning light surface rust off crankshaft=== | ===Cleaning light surface rust off crankshaft=== | ||
+ | Have a machine shop do it, or: | ||
− | + | #Very fine steel wool or scotchbrite pad, and light oil. Rub around the journals in the direction of rotation, not across. | |
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− | + | OR | |
− | + | #Cut 600 grip wet or dry sandpaper into strips the width of the crank journals. Wrap it around the journal, and secure it with tape. Then, make a strap from leather, about one-half the width of the sandpaper strips. Use the strap on the paper in a shoeshine motion. Finish off with some light oil on the sandpaper. Do a few strokes first, then clean the paper, because the rust will clog the sandpaper. | |
− | + | ||
− | + | LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts? | |
===Electrolysis=== | ===Electrolysis=== | ||
Advantages: self-limiting (can't remove too much), safe (low electrical current), won't harm good metal, not an acid (less dangerous, and no risk of hydrogen embrittlement) | Advantages: self-limiting (can't remove too much), safe (low electrical current), won't harm good metal, not an acid (less dangerous, and no risk of hydrogen embrittlement) | ||
− | Need: a plastic tub, iron electrode, water and washing soda (sodium carbonate), and a batter charger. About 1 tablespoon of soda per gallon of water. Can't find washing soda, then lye will work. Wear eye protection and protect skin too. Connect the electrode to the positive battery terminal. Connect the rusted object to the negative terminal. Submerge the object. Make sure the contact is good (may need to clean off some of the rust from the rusty part). Typically takes a few hours, but can take up to overnight. Rinse or scrub with brush to remove final rust debris. May need to re-treat. Oil, wax, or prime soon after. Surface of rusted metals is black after treatment. | + | Need: a plastic tub, a stainless steel or iron electrode, water and washing soda (sodium carbonate), and a batter charger. About 1 tablespoon of soda per gallon of water. Can't find washing soda, then lye will work. Wear eye protection and protect skin too. Connect the electrode to the positive battery terminal. Connect the rusted object to the negative terminal. Submerge the object. Make sure the contact is good (may need to clean off some of the rust from the rusty part). Typically takes a few hours, but can take up to overnight. Rinse or scrub with brush to remove final rust debris. May need to re-treat. Oil, wax, or prime soon after. Surface of rusted metals is black after treatment. |
Be creative to clean oddly-shaped objects: | Be creative to clean oddly-shaped objects: | ||
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====Resources==== | ====Resources==== | ||
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*http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm | *http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm | ||
*http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html | *http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html | ||
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*http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm | *http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm | ||
*http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html | *http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html | ||
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===How to remove rust from chrome=== | ===How to remove rust from chrome=== | ||
− | + | Use mag wheel polish, fine steel wool, crumpled-up pieces of aluminum foil. | |
− | + | ||
===Preventing engine rust=== | ===Preventing engine rust=== | ||
Engine storage spray, or wipe down with [http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ Marvel Mystery Oil]. | Engine storage spray, or wipe down with [http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ Marvel Mystery Oil]. | ||
− | Cylinder walls with flash rust: | + | Cylinder walls with flash rust: marvel mystery oil, steel wool, etc. Pitted rusting will necessitate a rebuild. |
===How to de-rust gas tanks=== | ===How to de-rust gas tanks=== | ||
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Flush with CLR, Kool Klean (can't find). Manufacturers of CLR say that it shouldn't be used in a radiator: http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.asp . | Flush with CLR, Kool Klean (can't find). Manufacturers of CLR say that it shouldn't be used in a radiator: http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.asp . | ||
− | When building an engine, to prevent rust: when done washing it and blowing it dry, oil it down, and store it in a plastic bag -- sealed | + | When building an engine, to prevent rust: when done washing it and blowing it dry, oil it down, and store it in a plastic bag -- sealed (confirm this). |
==="Oiling" your car=== | ==="Oiling" your car=== | ||
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*[http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/electronic-rustproofing-rust-proofing.htm Rust Stop North America] | *[http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/electronic-rustproofing-rust-proofing.htm Rust Stop North America] | ||
− | + | This is known as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection cathodic protection]? Research this. And: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode sacrificial anode] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode galvanic anode]. | |
===Frame rust=== | ===Frame rust=== | ||
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See: [[Media blasting]]. | See: [[Media blasting]]. | ||
− | *Sand is not recommended for media blasting panels. It acts like little hammers, warping panels with compressive forces (analagous to hail). It can be done, but extreme caution must be used | + | *Sand is not recommended for media blasting panels. It acts like little hammers, warping panels with compressive forces (analagous to hail). It can be done, but extreme caution must be used. |
*Use softer media (list examples): | *Use softer media (list examples): | ||
**55 grit silica-based media | **55 grit silica-based media | ||
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*One option is to use chemical paint stripper, then use a sandblaster to lightly "dust" the remaining rust. | *One option is to use chemical paint stripper, then use a sandblaster to lightly "dust" the remaining rust. | ||
*Media blasting can remove good metal from body panels too. Also, used media can have metal particles left in the media. | *Media blasting can remove good metal from body panels too. Also, used media can have metal particles left in the media. | ||
− | *Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels. However, when soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. | + | *Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels. However, when soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. Epoxy primer can peel off. Soda blast medium must be "neutralized". 24 or 36 grit grinder, followed by warm water with soap. Do this with a scuff pad, and rinse thoroughly. Some finish companies specifically advise against the use of their products on soda-blasted finishes, which makes its use contentious. |
=Miscellaneous= | =Miscellaneous= | ||
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Many modern automotive body panels are galvanized. | Many modern automotive body panels are galvanized. | ||
− | You can buy cold galvanizing spray | + | You can buy cold galvanizing spray (list examples here) |
==Hydrogen embrittlement== | ==Hydrogen embrittlement== | ||
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==Fiberglass resin patches== | ==Fiberglass resin patches== | ||
− | One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces. Metal also expands at different rates than | + | One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces. Metal also expands at different rates than fiberglass, causing cracks to form, allowing more rust to form in these cracks. |
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==Do metal etches leave coating?== | ==Do metal etches leave coating?== | ||
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==What about riveting in patch panels?== | ==What about riveting in patch panels?== | ||
− | Very low-end solution, like | + | Very low-end solution, like fiberglass patching metal. Panel adhesives are a better choice when you can't weld. |
+ | |||
+ | |||
=Resource dump= | =Resource dump= | ||
'''Drop links in here if they're relevant to this article. They'll be reviewed, incorporated, and referenced.''' | '''Drop links in here if they're relevant to this article. They'll be reviewed, incorporated, and referenced.''' | ||
− | + | ||
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*[http://www.theruststore.com/rust_info.aspx articles at theruststore.com] | *[http://www.theruststore.com/rust_info.aspx articles at theruststore.com] | ||
*http://www.corrosionsource.com/index.htm | *http://www.corrosionsource.com/index.htm | ||
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*http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm | *http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm | ||
*[http://www.restorick.com/tech/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37 zero rust application tips] | *[http://www.restorick.com/tech/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37 zero rust application tips] | ||
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=Related resources= | =Related resources= | ||
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*[http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html MetalWeb Rust Primer] | *[http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html MetalWeb Rust Primer] | ||
*[http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm Electrolytic Rust removal FAQ] | *[http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm Electrolytic Rust removal FAQ] | ||
− | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization | + | *[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization Galvanization, from wikiP] |
− | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hematite | + | *[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hematite, from wikiP] |
− | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetite | + | *[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetite, from wikiP] |
− | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conversion_coating | + | *[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conversion_coating, from wikiP] |
− | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_oxide | + | *[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_oxide, from wikiP] |
*[http://science.howstuffworks.com/question445.htm How does rust work?] HowStuffWorks.com | *[http://science.howstuffworks.com/question445.htm How does rust work?] HowStuffWorks.com | ||
*[http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=700 Quarter panel rust fix], ''A2Z Automotive Forums'', March 26, 2002. | *[http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=700 Quarter panel rust fix], ''A2Z Automotive Forums'', March 26, 2002. | ||
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[[Category:Body and exterior]] | [[Category:Body and exterior]] | ||
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{{youcanedit}} | {{youcanedit}} |