Editing Rust
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[[Image:Rust at battery tray old versus new.JPG|thumb|300px|A rusted battery tray alongside a new one.]] | [[Image:Rust at battery tray old versus new.JPG|thumb|300px|A rusted battery tray alongside a new one.]] | ||
− | ==What is rust | + | =What causes rust?= |
− | Rust is a kind of corrosion | + | |
+ | ==What is rust?== | ||
+ | Rust is a kind of corrosion -- a decay or breakdown of a material in reaction to its environment. Specifically, rust is an electro-chemical corrosion that occurs in the presence of iron, oxygen, and water. Oxygen and water are available in the open air, and iron is the principal ingredient in steel. | ||
For rust to occur it needs an anode (a piece of metal that gives up electrons), an electrolyte (a liquid that helps transport electrons), and a cathode (a piece of metal that accepts electrons). The more conductive the electrolyte, the quicker rust will occur. For this reason, humid air, salty air, or salty water will accelerate the formation of rust. | For rust to occur it needs an anode (a piece of metal that gives up electrons), an electrolyte (a liquid that helps transport electrons), and a cathode (a piece of metal that accepts electrons). The more conductive the electrolyte, the quicker rust will occur. For this reason, humid air, salty air, or salty water will accelerate the formation of rust. | ||
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Other metals besides iron oxidize, but their oxidation is not referred to as rust. For example, when aluminum oxidizes, it forms a protective, corrosion-resistant coating that is similar in appearance to un-oxidized aluminum. Zinc oxidizes similarly, which is why it is used for galvanizing. Only the oxidation of iron and steel is known as "rust". Why? Because iron oxide takes up more physical space than iron. It's bigger. So, when iron and air combine to make Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>, it "puffs out", exposing even more of the original steel to the elements. | Other metals besides iron oxidize, but their oxidation is not referred to as rust. For example, when aluminum oxidizes, it forms a protective, corrosion-resistant coating that is similar in appearance to un-oxidized aluminum. Zinc oxidizes similarly, which is why it is used for galvanizing. Only the oxidation of iron and steel is known as "rust". Why? Because iron oxide takes up more physical space than iron. It's bigger. So, when iron and air combine to make Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>, it "puffs out", exposing even more of the original steel to the elements. | ||
− | There is another iron oxide also referred to as "rust". It's Fe<sub>3</sub>O<sub>4</sub>, commonly called "black oxide", or, in mineral form, magnetite. This is the stuff that's left over after using certain products to "convert" rust. Black oxide takes up the same amount of space as iron, so it doesn't bulge it out, like reddish-brown rust, Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>. Since black oxide itself doesn't offer much protection against corrosion, it's typically covered up (often with [[epoxy primer]]). Black oxide is an example of a conversion coating, a metal coating where part of the surface is converted into the coating itself, by a chemical or electrochemical process. | + | There is another iron oxide also referred to as "rust". It's Fe<sub>3</sub>O<sub>4</sub>, commonly called "black oxide", or, in mineral form, magnetite. This is the stuff that's left over after using certain products to "convert" rust. Black oxide takes up the same amount of space as iron, so it doesn't bulge it out, like reddish-brown rust, Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>. Since black oxide itself doesn't offer much protection against corrosion, it's typically covered up (often with [[epoxy primer]]). Black oxide is an example of a conversion coating, a metal coating where part of the surface is converted into the coating itself, by a chemical or electrochemical process. ''(Is this the same thing as blueing?)'' |
===Why do older cars rust more than newer cars?=== | ===Why do older cars rust more than newer cars?=== | ||
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*Steel used in cars is of a higher quality these days. | *Steel used in cars is of a higher quality these days. | ||
*More salt is used on roads these days. | *More salt is used on roads these days. | ||
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=Rust assessment= | =Rust assessment= | ||
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===Tools=== | ===Tools=== | ||
− | Besides basic hand tools, do you have | + | Besides basic hand tools, do you have access to a DA sander? Media blaster? Spot blaster? Blast cabinet? Spray gun? |
===Cost=== | ===Cost=== | ||
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*Rust-Check | *Rust-Check | ||
*[http://www.evaporust.com/ Evapo-Rust Rust Remover] | *[http://www.evaporust.com/ Evapo-Rust Rust Remover] | ||
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*[http://www.corroless.com/ Corroless] | *[http://www.corroless.com/ Corroless] | ||
*[http://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm Klean Strip Rust Converter] | *[http://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm Klean Strip Rust Converter] | ||
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*DuPont Vari-Prime | *DuPont Vari-Prime | ||
*All-Metal | *All-Metal | ||
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===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ||
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When converting/neutralizing rust: | When converting/neutralizing rust: | ||
# Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better). | # Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better). | ||
− | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing tannic acid, | + | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing tannic acid, phospheric acid or another type of acid should be used |
# Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it. | # Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it. | ||
# Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing. | # Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing. | ||
− | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the | + | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the brisles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint, so, again, use caution. |
Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | ||
− | Don't use battery acid (sulfuric | + | Don't use battery acid (sulfuric acid) for rust removal. It's too dangerous, and there are many more effective chemicals. |
− | + | Ospho | |
− | *[http://rustbeeter.com/ Rustbeeter] Merchant description: A byproduct of the sugar refining process. Probably similar to molasses. Parts must be submerged. Parts soak in a bucket for usually under a week, but as long as several weeks. Food product. Dry powder that gets mixed with water. Non-acidic or caustic. After use, parts are cleaned with | + | *[http://rustbeeter.com/ Rustbeeter] Merchant description: A byproduct of the sugar refining process. Probably similar to molasses. Parts must be submerged. Parts soak in a bucket for usually under a week, but as long as several weeks. Food product. Dry powder that gets mixed with water. Non-acidic or caustic. After use, parts are cleaned with dishsoap and water, dried, and coated. |
*[http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php Must for Rust] Merchant description: removes rust and corrosion, non-caustic to skin, needs no neutralizing, primer goes right over it. $28/gallon. | *[http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php Must for Rust] Merchant description: removes rust and corrosion, non-caustic to skin, needs no neutralizing, primer goes right over it. $28/gallon. | ||
− | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=15974 Eastwood Rust Converter] Merchant description: 2-part mix, adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be | + | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=15974 Eastwood Rust Converter] Merchant description: 2-part mix, adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be topcoated with most coatings. 1 gallon each of the 2-part mix is $125. |
*[http://www.rust-cure.com/ Rust Cure] Merchant description: phosphoric acid-based. leaves a thin film that bonds well with most primers and paints. for pricing, need to see this page: http://rustcure.bizland.com/xwheretobuy.html . | *[http://www.rust-cure.com/ Rust Cure] Merchant description: phosphoric acid-based. leaves a thin film that bonds well with most primers and paints. for pricing, need to see this page: http://rustcure.bizland.com/xwheretobuy.html . | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1124&itemType=PRODUCT Oxisolv Rust Remover] Merchant description: dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Spray/brush/dip. Non-toxic, non-flammable, and re-usable. Must be cleaned off before priming. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1124&itemType=PRODUCT Oxisolv Rust Remover] Merchant description: dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Spray/brush/dip. Non-toxic, non-flammable, and re-usable. Must be cleaned off before priming. | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11122&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Rust Dissolver] Merchant description: acid free rust remover, leaves surface ready to paint, plate, or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts, and harmless to copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Surface must remain wet for product to work. $40/gallon. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11122&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Rust Dissolver] Merchant description: acid free rust remover, leaves surface ready to paint, plate, or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts, and harmless to copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Surface must remain wet for product to work. $40/gallon. | ||
*[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164 Rust-Mort] Merchant's description: "Converts rust to a black or grayish, hard, insoluble, protective coating". | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164 Rust-Mort] Merchant's description: "Converts rust to a black or grayish, hard, insoluble, protective coating". | ||
− | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=206 SEM Rust-Seal] Manufacturer description: "Transforms rust leaving a tough, permanent, black protective coating. RUST-SEAL can be left exposed or may be | + | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=206 SEM Rust-Seal] Manufacturer description: "Transforms rust leaving a tough, permanent, black protective coating. RUST-SEAL can be left exposed or may be topcoated with enamels, lacquers or urethanes." |
''(Make sure that none of the above count as "encapsulators". Also, what about the converters that leave a "protective film" on the metal. They say that they don't need neutralization, and they don't need to be washed off. Is this as good as cleaning to bare metal, and then hitting with epoxy primer?)'' | ''(Make sure that none of the above count as "encapsulators". Also, what about the converters that leave a "protective film" on the metal. They say that they don't need neutralization, and they don't need to be washed off. Is this as good as cleaning to bare metal, and then hitting with epoxy primer?)'' | ||
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*Is DuPont's "Quick-Prep" equivalent to Metalprep? | *Is DuPont's "Quick-Prep" equivalent to Metalprep? | ||
− | Read this thread thoroughly: | + | Read this thread thoroughly: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-else-wax-grease-remover-besides-mineral-spirits-51150.html |
The following are not to be used as metal cleaners: lacquer thinner, acetone, reducers. Use the product within the recommendations of your product system. Cleaners typically vary as to strength, and time they take to evaporate. | The following are not to be used as metal cleaners: lacquer thinner, acetone, reducers. Use the product within the recommendations of your product system. Cleaners typically vary as to strength, and time they take to evaporate. | ||
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===Tips=== | ===Tips=== | ||
− | *When using a wire wheel, don't sit in one spot for too long -- | + | *When using a wire wheel, don't sit in one spot for too long -- it will warp the metal. |
==Methods== | ==Methods== | ||
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====Storing body panels==== | ====Storing body panels==== | ||
− | Use epoxy primer ( | + | Use epoxy primer (AKA epoxy primer/sealer), it won't allow rust. Not the same as regular primer. |
Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. | Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. | ||
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''(How to prevent?)'' | ''(How to prevent?)'' | ||
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===Leaf spring rust=== | ===Leaf spring rust=== | ||
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===Cleaning light surface rust off crankshaft=== | ===Cleaning light surface rust off crankshaft=== | ||
+ | Have a machine shop do it, or: | ||
− | + | #Very fine steel wool or scotchbrite pad, and light oil. Rub around the journals in the direction of rotation, not across. | |
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− | + | #Cut 600 grip wet or dry sandpaper into strips the width of the crank journals. Wrap it around the journal, and secure it with tape. Then, make a strap from leather, about one-half the width of the sandpaper strips. Use the strap on the paper in a shoeshine motion. Finish off with some light oil on the sandpaper. Do a few strokes first, then clean the paper, because the rust will clog the sandpaper. | |
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''(LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts?)'' | ''(LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts?)'' | ||
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====Resources==== | ====Resources==== | ||
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*http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm | *http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm | ||
*http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html | *http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html | ||
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Engine storage spray, or wipe down with [http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ Marvel Mystery Oil]. | Engine storage spray, or wipe down with [http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ Marvel Mystery Oil]. | ||
− | Cylinder walls with flash rust: | + | Cylinder walls with flash rust: marvel mystery oil, steel wool, etc. Pitted rusting will necessitate a rebuild. |
===How to de-rust gas tanks=== | ===How to de-rust gas tanks=== | ||
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==Fiberglass resin patches== | ==Fiberglass resin patches== | ||
One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces. Metal also expands at different rates than [[Fiberglassing|fiberglass]], causing cracks to form, allowing more rust to form in these cracks. | One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces. Metal also expands at different rates than [[Fiberglassing|fiberglass]], causing cracks to form, allowing more rust to form in these cracks. | ||
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==Do metal etches leave coating?== | ==Do metal etches leave coating?== | ||
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=Resource dump= | =Resource dump= | ||
'''Drop links in here if they're relevant to this article. They'll be reviewed, incorporated, and referenced.''' | '''Drop links in here if they're relevant to this article. They'll be reviewed, incorporated, and referenced.''' | ||
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*[http://lasertronics.com/ Lasertronics.com] | *[http://lasertronics.com/ Lasertronics.com] | ||
*[http://www.theruststore.com/rust_info.aspx articles at theruststore.com] | *[http://www.theruststore.com/rust_info.aspx articles at theruststore.com] |