Editing Paint amount and prep

Ok, I've been reading everything I can in diffrent groups about automotive painting. For the past two years I've been a painter in a plant. I paint bare steel cabinets using a binks mach1 hvlp bbr, a binks95 and a binks gravity gun, being the steel is always bare I first use degreaser and pressure wash it, second I apply an etching chemical then pressure wash it again the dry it using air. anyway I bought an older 1995 chevy 1500 4x4, It is from michigan and the rust is terrible fortunatally bady parts are a dime a dozen for it so I have a new bed fenders bumper ect. and it's under 100k miles and runs like new. I plan on doing all the prep at home then doing the basecoat and clear coat in the paint both at work. For home I just purchased a binks mach1 with a 1.4 tip a 2 gallon paint pot, and a campbell hausfield 2 hp 11 gallon compressor. I would like to do the primmer at home also and possibly the back of the cab and the bed before I put them on, I plan on going with the same color (white) so I dont have to do under the hood door jams ect.  I guess what I'm trying to decide is do I need primmer surfacer then primer, when I pressure wash the frame do the paint rust convertors they sell really work? I feel I can do a good paint job, but I want to make sure the frame dosent rust thru in the next few years, also what is the best primmer to use to adhear to the old paint and body work. If I use a urathane or enamel base and clear coat does the primmer also need to be a urathane or enamel or would an epoxy hold better? anyway I've been getting lots of tips such as wet sanding ect. I've been told I'm the best painter the company has ever had nice shiny finishes no over spray rct. however it's industrial equipment I paint so no wet sanding clear coat ect is needed usually it's just one good heavy coat of emamel then two or three lighter finishing coats. I've been looking at NAPA CROSSFIRE® Low VOC H.S. Urethane Ename lCFP358 and Napa 2K Primer Surfacer #15221  1-Gallon   Light Gray Color.  hey it'll be at least a few weeks befor I'm actually ready to paint so any advise would be helpful. and also are the how to paint a car DVD's worth My time?

Line 1:		Line 1:
−	~~#REDIRECT [[First~~ paint job]]	+	Ok, I've been reading everything I can in diffrent groups about automotive painting. For the past two years I've been a painter in a plant. I paint bare steel cabinets using a binks mach1 hvlp bbr, a binks95 and a binks gravity gun, being the steel is always bare I first use degreaser and pressure wash it, second I apply an etching chemical then pressure wash it again the dry it using air. anyway I bought an older 1995 chevy 1500 4x4, It is from michigan and the rust is terrible fortunatally bady parts are a dime a dozen for it so I have a new bed fenders bumper ect. and it's under 100k miles and runs like new. I plan on doing all the prep at home then doing the basecoat and clear coat in the paint both at work. For home I just purchased a binks mach1 with a 1.4 tip a 2 gallon paint pot, and a campbell hausfield 2 hp 11 gallon compressor. I would like to do the primmer at home also and possibly the back of the cab and the bed before I put them on, I plan on going with the same color (white) so I dont have to do under the hood door jams ect. I guess what I'm trying to decide is do I need primmer surfacer then primer, when I pressure wash the frame do the paint rust convertors they sell really work? I feel I can do a good paint job, but I want to make sure the frame dosent rust thru in the next few years, also what is the best primmer to use to adhear to the old paint and body work. If I use a urathane or enamel base and clear coat does the primmer also need to be a urathane or enamel or would an epoxy hold better? anyway I've been getting lots of tips such as wet sanding ect. I've been told I'm the best painter the company has ever had nice shiny finishes no over spray rct. however it's industrial equipment I paint so no wet sanding clear coat ect is needed usually it's just one good heavy coat of emamel then two or three lighter finishing coats. I've been looking at NAPA CROSSFIRE® Low VOC H.S. Urethane Ename lCFP358 and Napa 2K Primer Surfacer #15221 1-Gallon Light Gray Color. hey it'll be at least a few weeks befor I'm actually ready to paint so any advise would be helpful. and also are the how to paint a car DVD's worth My time?