Editing Installing brakes

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Undeveloped articles]]

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==Overview==
Disc brakes are fairly easy to change. There are several different styles but the process is pretty much the same for most vehicles. [http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ AutoZone] (and possibly others) has info in their 'Repair Help' section on how to change disc brake pads that can be looked over before starting work. An auto manual for the vehicle can help as well.

==Changing disc brakes==
Lift the vehicle and support on jack stands or use a lift if available.

Remove wheels

Most calipers are held in place by 2 bolts, some are allen head or torx head. Make sure you have the correct tool to remove the mounting bolts.

Try to open the bleeder valve before removing the caliper, loosening it will help later, don't leave it open.

If you are not replacing the rotors, use a lug nut with some sort of a spacer on one of the lugs to lock the rotor in place to avoid rust falling down behind the rotor.

Start by backing out the caliper mounting bolts and prying the caliper off the rotor. On some calipers the bolts will stay in the caliper. The caliper piston may need to be compressed enough to get the caliper and pads to slide off the rotor, especially if there's a lot of wear to the rotor.

Remove the old pads, in most cases they are just held in place with an anti-rattle clip, in some cases they will stay on the caliper mounting bracket. Compare the new and old pads to be sure the right pads were bought. Looking to see if there are new clips included with the new pads may help you to see what holds them on. The pads may not all be the same, pay attention to which pad came from where and match the new pad's positions to the old ones.

==Prepairing to install==
Clean all the caliper and pad mounting surfaces. Remove the stainless steel slides if it has them and remove all rust under them, apply never seize or a lube like [http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/09177.pdf Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube]and clean and replace steels. Make sure any parts that slide are free, then clean and lube them with caliper grease. If the calipers show signs of poor previous maintenance, or holddown hardware is very rusty, worn, missing, or pitted, replace the hardware with new kits. The kits are very inexpensive and sold as a set.

The new pads need to slide freely in the caliper or on the mount. Rust can be removed with a file or wire brush if needed. Never grind the pads to fit.

Open the bleeder and push the cylinder back into the caliper until it is flush, you can use a caliper tool or a c-clamp to accomplish this, then close bleeder.

You never want to push old dirty fluid back through the system. This would be a good time to flush the brake system and refill it with new, clean fluid. 

==Installation==
Install new pads and replace caliper and torque mounting bolts to proper spec.

Do one side at a time in case you have an issue you can look at the other side as a reference.
Once you have both sides done refill the master cylinder with fluid. 

Pump brakes a few times, don't be alarmed as the pedal may go to the floor a few times while the calipers refill with fluid and the pistons get pumped out to meet the rotor.

Check for leaks then check the fluid level in the master cylinder one more time.

Install and torque wheel

Road test vehicle.