Editing How to prep and start a rebuilt engine
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==Engine assembly== | ==Engine assembly== | ||
===Bearings=== | ===Bearings=== | ||
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===Flat tappet cam and lifters=== | ===Flat tappet cam and lifters=== | ||
− | Use a black cam lube w/moly in it on the CLEAN lifter bottoms and cam lobes, including some on the distributor gear and fuel pump eccentric- but not on the bearings or journals. Work the lube in w/pressure (wear gloves- the stuff soaks into/stains the skin), not just laid on top of the surfaces. You want full coverage but not necessary to have it slathered all over the place dripping off, etc. It (the thick moly cam lube) will plug an oil filter if too much is used- but it would take a LOT to do so. Some guys like the red syrup | + | Use a black cam lube w/moly in it on the CLEAN lifter bottoms and cam lobes, including some on the distributor gear and fuel pump eccentric- but not on the bearings or journals. Work the lube in w/pressure (wear gloves- the stuff soaks into/stains the skin), not just laid on top of the surfaces. You want full coverage but not necessary to have it slathered all over the place dripping off, etc. It (the thick moly cam lube) will plug an oil filter if too much is used- but it would take a LOT to do so. Some guys like the red syrup. |
− | + | Soaking the lifters in oil is fine. There is no need to pump them full of oil using a pushrod to stroke them full, but no harm if you do. No moly lube on the body of the lifter- just on the bottoms and the lobes of the cam. Don't neglect to work the lube into the surface of the cam lobes, especially. | |
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===Roller cam and lifters=== | ===Roller cam and lifters=== | ||
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==Preparing the engine to be started== | ==Preparing the engine to be started== | ||
− | ===Prelube | + | ===Prelube=== |
Prelube the engine right before start up. Much is made of getting oil coming from all the pushrods, etc. but as long as the pump is pumping (you will definitely feel the drill labor when the pump is working) and you run the pump long enough to pressurize the system (plumb a temporary gauge to monitor the pressure while priming) and fill the oil filter and galleries, that's good enough- as soon as the engine starts there will be immediate oil pressure, and THAT is what's important- that the engine doesn't run w/o pressure. | Prelube the engine right before start up. Much is made of getting oil coming from all the pushrods, etc. but as long as the pump is pumping (you will definitely feel the drill labor when the pump is working) and you run the pump long enough to pressurize the system (plumb a temporary gauge to monitor the pressure while priming) and fill the oil filter and galleries, that's good enough- as soon as the engine starts there will be immediate oil pressure, and THAT is what's important- that the engine doesn't run w/o pressure. | ||
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− | + | ===Timing=== | |
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For installing a Chevy V8 distributor and setting the timing so the engine will fire immediately, see [[How to install a distributor]]. Other distributors will install similarly, but be sure of the [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Firing_orders firing order and distributor rotation], along with any other details that might be different if another make of engine is being worked on. | For installing a Chevy V8 distributor and setting the timing so the engine will fire immediately, see [[How to install a distributor]]. Other distributors will install similarly, but be sure of the [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Firing_orders firing order and distributor rotation], along with any other details that might be different if another make of engine is being worked on. | ||
To help keep the engine from overheating, make sure the engine has plenty of ignition timing advance while it's running to break in the cam. You must not idle the engine even for just a minute, so set the timing using a dial back timing light or [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_make_a_timing_tape make a timing tape] so you can see what the timing is at with the engine running at 2000-plus rpm. You can give it 32-34 degrees (not counting the vacuum advance), no problem. It will not hurt to connect the vacuum advance because the engine is running w/o a load, so there won't be detonation from excessive timing unless you were to go WAY up there. But 32 degrees without the vacuum advance hooked up, to as much as 45 degrees with the vacuum advance hooked up is OK. Placing a large fan in front of the radiator can help keep the engine cool as well. | To help keep the engine from overheating, make sure the engine has plenty of ignition timing advance while it's running to break in the cam. You must not idle the engine even for just a minute, so set the timing using a dial back timing light or [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_make_a_timing_tape make a timing tape] so you can see what the timing is at with the engine running at 2000-plus rpm. You can give it 32-34 degrees (not counting the vacuum advance), no problem. It will not hurt to connect the vacuum advance because the engine is running w/o a load, so there won't be detonation from excessive timing unless you were to go WAY up there. But 32 degrees without the vacuum advance hooked up, to as much as 45 degrees with the vacuum advance hooked up is OK. Placing a large fan in front of the radiator can help keep the engine cool as well. | ||
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==Crate engine break-in instructions== | ==Crate engine break-in instructions== | ||
− | + | The following instructions from the GMPP [http://www.chevroletperformance.com/Racing/CT_Tech_Manual.pdf Circle Track Crate Engine Technical Manual] are good guidelines to follow for any rebuilt engine: | |
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'''Recommended Break-In Procedure''' | '''Recommended Break-In Procedure''' | ||
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# Run 5-6 medium-throttle accelerations to about 4500 rpm and letting off in gear and coasting back down to 2000 rpm. | # Run 5-6 medium-throttle accelerations to about 4500 rpm and letting off in gear and coasting back down to 2000 rpm. | ||
# Run a couple of hard-throttle acceleration to about 5000 rpm then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 2000 rpm. | # Run a couple of hard-throttle acceleration to about 5000 rpm then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 2000 rpm. | ||
− | # Change the oil and filter | + | # Change the oil and filter, a PF1218 AC Delco oil filter (P/N 25160561) or PF45 (P/N 25324052) and Mobil 1 Synthetic oil (P/N 12347284) are recommended. |
# Drive the next 25 laps without high rpm’s (below 5000 rpm), hard use, or extended periods of high loading. | # Drive the next 25 laps without high rpm’s (below 5000 rpm), hard use, or extended periods of high loading. | ||
# Change the oil and filter again. | # Change the oil and filter again. | ||
# Your engine is now ready for racing. | # Your engine is now ready for racing. | ||
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==Oil== | ==Oil== | ||
===Break in oil=== | ===Break in oil=== | ||
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===Oil after break in=== | ===Oil after break in=== | ||
− | + | Oil formulations are being changed due to pressure from the EPA. Zinc and phosphorus tend to coat O2 sensors and plug catalytic converters resulting in warranty claims as well as contributing to dirty exhaust emissions, so they are being eliminated from motor oils as we speak. These elements were used in the oil to provide extreme pressure lubrication and protection from galling on heavily loaded engine components such as the cam lobe/lifter crown interface. The oil companies have no choice, they have to follow the guidelines imposed on them. | |
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There are specialty/racing motor oil that will give protection to your new flat tappet cam and lifters. Generally speaking, "over the counter" motor oils are not up to the task; they are constantly changing formulations, so what might have been acceptable for use with a flat tappet valve train might not be the next time you look up the specs, so be very careful when selecting motor oil. | There are specialty/racing motor oil that will give protection to your new flat tappet cam and lifters. Generally speaking, "over the counter" motor oils are not up to the task; they are constantly changing formulations, so what might have been acceptable for use with a flat tappet valve train might not be the next time you look up the specs, so be very careful when selecting motor oil. |