Starter motors
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First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below). | First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below). | ||
| − | Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons. | + | Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes - this includes the 1996-2014 4.3L since the cast aluminum oil pan does not have enough room for use with a 153 tooth starter motor. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons. |
==Starter noses== | ==Starter noses== | ||
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| − | |[[File:Iron left al right starter nose.jpg|thumb| | + | |[[File:153 vs168starter.jpg|thumb|245px|153 tooth starter "straight across" bolt pattern left, 168 tooth "staggered" bolt pattern starter right]] |
| − | + | |[[File:Block starter pad.jpg|thumb|400px|Block mounted starter holes: '''''both''''' use the blue circled hole; staggered starter uses the black circled hole]] | |
| + | |[[File:Iron left al right starter nose.jpg|thumb|330px|Cast iron nose left, aluminum nose right. Note the difference in the depth of the two noses; only the cast iron nose can be used with a manual tranny bellhousing]] | ||
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===Adjustment=== | ===Adjustment=== | ||
| + | A noisy starter may be because the gears are meshing too close. The use of shims reduces the noise by increasing the distance between the gears. | ||
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When using shims you need to have 1/8" clearance, a 1/8" drill bit or allen wrench works well for this. | When using shims you need to have 1/8" clearance, a 1/8" drill bit or allen wrench works well for this. | ||
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| + | A page on how and why to use shims is [[Media:Delco_remy_starter_shim_bulletin_tbstr01-2.pdf|'''here''']]. | ||
==GM starter solenoid== | ==GM starter solenoid== | ||
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===Battery terminals=== | ===Battery terminals=== | ||
| − | [[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left|Clamp-on | + | [[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left|]] Clamp-on style battery cable terminals have received a bad reputation simply due to the fact that they have been used incorrectly. A typical installation would involve trimming back the insulation on the battery cable, putting in under the clamp and tightening the bolts. Then the terminal would be placed on the battery post and in most cases, it will not fit correctly. |
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| + | The correct way to use these terminals is actually rather easy but it does require some tools, materials and skills. You will need to verify that the battery cable can be trimmed back a minimal of an inch and still make the connection to the battery without stressing the cable due to it being too short. You want to remove at least an inch of the cable to expose a section of the cable that has not been exposed to any corrosion. With cable length trimmed, you now will trim a 1/2" section of the insulation away from the cable exposing the wire. Next is taking a soldering iron or gun along with the correct solder (non-acid type) and applying a small amount of solder to the exposed cable end. You should end up with a shiny look to the soldering operation. At this point, you will need to verify the fit of the terminal on the battery post, in most cases you will find that the terminal will not fit all the way down on to the terminal. A battery post reamer tool is a quick and easy way to open up the inside of the terminal. With the clinch bolt loose, you want the terminal to slide all the way down on the post and make full contact. Once this has been done, you can now connect the cable to the terminal, tighten the bolts snug and then tighten the clamp bolt. You now have a battery terminal connection that is done correctly. | ||
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===Grounds=== | ===Grounds=== | ||
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