How to title a hot rod

 

How to title a hot rod, in 50 US states and various countries. [[Image:Title_california.jpg|300px|thumb]]

====Cars Built from Parts====

===Major Components===

 

 

There's a new demand for customized, altered, and "repurposed" cars among motor vehicle enthusiasts. People with mechanical abilities are making vehicles for themselves and others using car kits, components from otherwise wrecked cars, or simply writing a plan and building the car from the ground up. Alaska has certain requirements for the registration and titling of custom, rebuilt or altered vehicles.

 

====Registering vs. Titling====

====Registering a Custom Vehicle====

 

====Vehicle Inspections====

 

1. Bonded Title

In this method the owner must first get a form signed by a licensed police officer verifying the VIN of the vehicle to be titled. The owner must then file with the state for a bonded title.When the state returns a “Letter of approval” and assigns a value to the vehicle the owner must then post a bond with a corporate surety bond, certificate of deposit with assignment, or an irrevocable letter of credit filed with the Commissioner within thirty (30) days from its effective date, '''for an amount equal to one and one half (1 ½) times the value of the vehicle as determined by the Commissioner'''. The bond,certificate of deposit and assignment or letter of credit shall be delivered to the Commissioner, and accompanied by:

Recently Arkansas has enacted a '''Street Rod/Custom Vehicle Bill''' modeled after the SEMA Model.

 

"The new law allows for the use of non-original materials, provides for special license plates and permits the use of blue dot taillights.  In addition, the measure exempts street rods and customs from a range of standard equipment requirements and emissions controls (only that equipment required in the model year that the vehicle resembles).  Vehicles titled and registered as street rods and custom vehicles may only be used for occasional transportation, exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, etc. and not for general daily transportation"

Further Documentation:

 

REGULATION 1993-3

The best thing to do is get the legal paper work straightened out before you ever do any work on the car, then file a non-op on the car, when you get it running you send in proof of insurance and the renewal fees. No questions, no inspections, no hassle....blusdn

 

First of all you need a bill of sale or receipts for all of the major components, body, frame, motor, transmission and or rear ends.  They will accept an Ebay page showing you bought the things you say you did. If not a receipt, you have a statement of facts that you can fill out telling where you acquired the part, and how much you spent for it.

Call the CHP with your paperwork, and they will assign you to a Vehicle Verification officer, somewhere in the county that you reside.  Normally, it takes about 6 weeks to get an appointment, depending on where you are in california.

What you will have titled is a "1924 Dodge Brothers 5 Window Coupe, 2008 New Construction".  Make sure you put in the year and what you want it to be called, as what you submit on the paperwork will be the title of your documents for ownership.

This is an easy and straightforward procedure if you get all your ducks in a row.  Approach it with incomplete paperwork, bad choices of motor or illegible numbers, and you could be in for a nighmare.  The above post suggests using AAA club for it, that is a good choice, and if you are unsure, you are far better having an agency do the legwork for you.

====HOW TO TITLE AND SMOG EXEMPT YOUR VEHICLE IN CALIFORNIA====

=====Definitions from California DMV webpage:=====

 

======Specially Constructed Vehicle======

(2) new or used, or a combination of new and used, parts; or  

What is the Specially Constructed Vehicle Emission Control Program?

 

====History of my car:====

'27 T roadster body only. Plans call for a homemade frame, turbo'd 2.3, T5, etc. Remember, T's had the original VIN on the engine block and it's long gone. The only things I walked into DMV with were a 'bill of sale' from the previous owner, the craigslist ad where I found it, a picture of the car in my backyard, and these forms...........

Form 256..........Statement of Facts

Make sure whoever helps you is knowledgeable in the Specially Constructed Vehicle registration process. My clerk took the 3 of us at one time. One guy had a Factory Five '65 Shelby clone and the second guy had a '55 Chevy gasser.

 

 

 

Next, I go to the BAR referee where I'll choose to have it smogged based on the year of body, 1927. Oh wait! 1927 is outside the jurisdiction of current smog laws! Oh well!

 

I hope this info will help someone else. There's a small chance there are still some SB100 slots left for this year. If not, camp in front of DMV on the first business day of 2011 and get your SB100 Sequence number! Good luck!

*[http://www.dmv.org/co-colorado/custom-built-cars.php Custom Built Car Registration]

Ready for Inspection

* Transfer the vehicle by flat-bed truck or trailer to the inspection station. You cannot drive or tow the vehicle. None of its wheels can touch the ground until it passes inspection and you are granted a registration.  

* If your vehicle passes inspection, the DMV inspector will assign a VIN to your vehicle, which will allow you to begin the standard process of applying for a registration and title. If you fail, you can ask for a re-inspection without going through the appointment process.

You're also going to have to submit your vehicle for an emissions exam. Some vehicles are exempt from emissions testing. Until January 2007, any composite vehicle that is not exempt must pass standard state emission testing. After new rules go into effect in January 2007, composite vehicles will have to meet specific standards.

Application for Kit Mounted on a Car Frame Previously Titled in Florida

* Florida title from original car frame, which must be in your name or at least with a completed application to transfer the title into your name.  

* The body kit MCO, assigned to you. A bill of sale is acceptable if the manufacturer didn't issue an MCO.

* Completed Application for Certificate of Title.

* Notarized affidavit, stating that the vehicle is able to be operated on public roads. The statement must also list the repairs made to the vehicle.  

* Bills of sale or receipts for all parts and equipment that weren't part of the original frame or the body kit. All documents must include name, address, and signature of seller. Components may include front end, rear end, doors, engine, transmission, frame, cowl assembly, and airbag, or any parts of those elements.

* Applicable sales tax (or fill out the statement on sales tax on the application form).

* Florida license plate number for the vehicle, or an affidavit of non-use.  

* Applicable title fees. (Use the License Plate Rate Chart to calculate all specific charges.  

====Application for Kit Mounted on a Car Frame Previously Titled in Another State====

* All documentation listed in items two through eight, above.

====Application for Kit Mounted on a Homemade Frame====

* All documentation listed in items two through eight, above.

====Application for Kit Mounted on a New Frame Provided by the Manufacturer====

====Title Language====

Hobby and antique vehicles over 25 years old (or vehicles manufactured to resemble such vehicles) are eligible for a special license plate through the state of Georgia. These cars do not require any special permits to operate on the state's roadways, as long as they display a valid tag.

Registration Periods

A few of the counties―Calhoun, Charlton, Clay, McIntosh, Mitchell, Randolph, Stewart, and Turner―have a four-month registration period. In these counties you must renew your registration any time from January 1 to April 30.

USRI [http://www.usri.org United Street Rods of Idaho] have a lot of info on their site. Idaho seems to be one of the better states to deal with. Street rods are titled as the year the body most closely resembles. You have to meet requirement for that year, Your fiberglass 31 roadster will meet requirements for a stock car of 1931. You need to keep receipts of all your parts and the inspector likes to see picture of your build.  USRI recommends you get a meeting with your area inspector when you start so you will not have any problems later.  Vehicles with no title need a bill of sale and an inspection by the DMV or sheriff or police to verify year. model, make vin  or id number.  They do a search of information of file  then if clear issue you a new title.  Most difficult  to title would be a custom build car that has no resemblance to a production vehicle.  Would have to meet new requirements. You can go to IDAHO DMV and print out the forms you will need, eg,"  bill of sale, inspection form, application for title , etc.

[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_registration/apply_custom_rod.html Illinois DMV Info]

 

[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/publications/pdf_publications/rtopr2615.pdf Bonded Title Info]

 

IL is now going after any title service places, out of state titles, and titles that are even '''clear and with the original car'''.. if the owner has '''since died'''. It is absolutely ridicules  in IL. Hot rod builders are out of luck in this state.

'''No Title, Missing VIN Tag and Purchased Vehicle Out of State.'''

Any documentation you can get of the vehicle is important, especially a Bill of Sale. You can use Indiana Bill of Sale State form 44237 @ www.in.gov/bmv/forms or make your own stating as much information as possible about the vehicle, purchase price and the seller information. Both seller and buyer sign and date the form. A police officer will have to inspect the vehicle. Provide him with all the documentation you have and indicate you have no VIN tag. He will fill out a Physical Inspection of an Indiana Resident's Vehicle Form stating no VIN tag or Plate number/State. If you have a VIN number they will verify through a IDACS/NCIC check to make sure the vehicle isn't stolen. Once completed you take this form and your Bill of Sale and any other information about the vehicle with you to your Indiana BMV and apply for a new VIN number which will be mailed to you. Once you receive the new VIN number, have a legible tag made by a local trophy shop with the new number and affix it to the vehicle in or about the original location of the VIN tag. Once completed a Police officer again will have to come out and verify all documentation, new tag location and charge $5.00 for the Physical Inspection form he signs stating everything is in order. The last step in this process is to return to the BMV will all your documentation and apply for Certificate of Title. At this point you will pay your sales tax from your Bill of Sale form and a fee for Title Application. Once completed your New Vehicle Title will be mailed in 4-6 weeks.

[http://www.iowadot.gov/mvd/ovs/bonded.htm Iowa Bonded Title]

 

[http://www.iamvd.com/ovs/abandoned.htm Iowa abandoned vehicle questions & answers]

 

[http://www.dot.state.ia.us/mvd/ Iowa motor vehicle division]

 

[http://www.iowadot.gov/mvd/omve/iac450.pdf Specially Constructed/Reconstructed Equipment Requirements]

 

[http://www.iowadot.gov/mvd/omve/iac400.16(321).pdf Specially Constructed/Reconstructed Equipment Application Process]

a: You will either have to transport your vehicle(No driving it) to the DMV office, or the investigator will come to you. My person acted like it could be done either way, and she came to me, but some have said they had to go to the office. Depends on the investigator I think. Let them know that you have the above list of requirements and believe that you've met all of them. Have a printout in hand when they show up, they'll ask for it (as hard as it may be for some, remember you are in kiss-*** mode if you want your inspection to be successful).

b: The actual physical inspection. All investigators are different. Some will only give your project a cursory once-over, some will nit pick it all the way. Mine only looked to see that I had lights,horn etc, didn't even ask to see that they worked. When she started down the list of requirements and I was able to show her each of the first 3 or 4 she pretty much gave up, she knew it was a waste to check each one. I think what it comes down to is if your vehicle looks like you knew what your doing, it's safely constructed, and you won't kill somebody else the first trip around the block, the inspector isn't gonna have a problem with it. Put together something questionable and you'll be in for a battle.

c: Review of documentation. Again, better to show them you're on the up and up than try to hide something. If you have a 2" thick pile of documentation your gonna be better off than if you have 2 Walmart receipts. Also, they will want copies of all receipts, it's probably in your best interest to have 2 copies ready for them. Mine took them back to the office for copying and delivered them back to me the next day. Having a set of copies will save them the trip, and get you registered one day sooner.

Also, your receipts will determine the taxable value of your vehicle, which determines the amount of Iowa road use tax that you will pay. You will be taxed at the state sales tax rate(5% as of 2007) on all parts you have not paid tax on. See hints below.

d: VIN assignment. Seems to be standard procedure that the inspector will bring the assigned VIN sticker with them and will attach it once the inspection is complete. They will also ask to stamp the new VIN somewhere in the frame. You will want a bare metal spot masked off for the stamping, or you will have to grind off a spot for it. It has to be stamped on bare steel. You can paint or clear coat the spot after.

e: Actual registration. Once your inspection is complete, your investigator will notify your county treasurer's office with the information from your vehicle. In my case she Emailed both me and the treasurer's office right from her car before leaving my house. They will include your vehicle description, assigned VIN and the amount you owe tax on. You go to the license plate office, fill out the application for title, pay your taxes and your done. Even though it took 3 people and a review of a couple procedure manuals, it was probably the shortest trip I've had there in a long time.

 

 

1. Again, remember to be on the up and up with this deal. You've probably got several thousand dollars wrapped up in this deal, not to mention many many hours of your blood sweat and tears, the last thing you want to happen is to have it all fall through at the last step.

Here's a fine example: I built a V8 powered trike, inspired by one that I had seen done when I was in high school 25 years ago. The original builder got caught driving it on his father's dealer plate and the local investigator found out about it. Strike one. When he finally called to have it inspected, he had almost no documentation on any of the parts, including a fair amount of Harley parts, that he had used building it. Strike two. Besides all that, he pushed the requirements right to the limit, one taillight, one mirror, funky exhaust, marginal fenders etc. Having started out on the wrong foot, this was the last straw. Strike three.

I know where this trike is. To this day it sits, never licensed, never legally ridden on the road. It's a shame, a beautiful project that got scuttled before it was officially launched......

2. Receipts and taxes. Probably the one sticky spot I ran into was that during the building of my project I bought about 80% of the parts off Ebay. Buying the actual parts was no problem at all, I had excellent luck and made some good deals, saved alot of money on parts that I needed.

The problem was that the state of Iowa is gonna get it's tax share no matter what, and I payed no verifiable tax on about $9000 worth of parts. Ouch, but what do you do?? The investigator can ask for a receipt or documentation for any part on the vehicle, you can't hold some back and not others because you don't know what they'll ask for. You obviously can't ask them to inspect a $30,000 vehicle and only hand over $1000 worth of receipts, questions WILL come up.

So, you have 2 choices. Buy all your parts locally so you can show that the tax was paid up front, or simply turn over your receipts and pay the tax later. Maybe I was a fool, I turned in approx. $12000 worth of receipts and ended up paying tax on $9000 worth of it. I ended up paying a $450 one-time road use tax, but at this point I had a huge investment in time and materials, what's $450??

3. Do your research up front. You don't want to get all done and find out that your chopped coupe with a 4" windshield doesn't meet the requirements, the law says 6". You might sneek by, but then again you might not.

 

In Kansas, you must follow the below instructions which entails a massive amount of paperwork, receipts, inspections, etc.

*http://www.ksrevenue.org/dmv-titleused.html  

 

*http://www.ksrevenue.org/pdf/tr91.pdf

Kentucky permits the use of a Year of Manufacture plate providing the owner of the vehicle purchases the required Kentucky Historic plate and keeps the historic plate and the current year registration in the vehicle at all times. Vehicle must be 25 years old

====Titling - Homemade, Two-Stage or Reconstructed Vehicle====  

 

Explained below are the requirements for titling a “homemade” vehicle, a vehicle that was constructed by more than one  

manufacturer (i.e., two-stage),and a reconstructed vehicle. These vehicles are unusual in that they were built either

by (or under the direction of) the vehicle’s owner or by more than one manufacturer.  In most cases, the Maryland State Police  

must inspect the vehicle before it can be titled.  Inspections are performed  

at the MVA’s Glen Burnie garage.

Fees:

The fee for registration varies by the type of vehicle, its weight, and/or its intended use. See Fees for Registration Plates for more information.

MVA

Mail In Title Unit

6601 Ritchie Highway, NE

Glen Burnie, MD 21062

MVA

Glen Burnie Branch Office

6601 Ritchie Highway, NE

Glen Burnie, MD 21062

 

Sales receipts Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title, if applicable, or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). When the Maryland title is used as the application form, complete the section entitled Application for Title and Registration.

Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number (if applicable) - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) may be assigned to the completed vehicle.  The Maryland State Police will install the new VIN plate after they have inspected it.

You can apply for a title at any of the MVA’s full service branch offices. You also can mail the documents to the MVA’s Mail  

In Title Unit in the Glen Burnie office, or go to an MVA licensed tag and title service where they will assist you in applying. Typically, you will need to submit the following documents:  

A two-stage vehicle is a vehicle that has been built by two separate manufacturers. The result is a standard, complete vehicle capable of performing its intended function. You can apply for a title at any of the MVA’s full service branch offices. You also can mail the documents to the MVA’s Mail In Title Unit in the Glen Burnie office, or go to an MVA licensed tag and title service where they will assist you in applying. Typically, you will need to submit the following documents:  

Proof of ownership – The certificates of origin from both the first and second stage manufacturers are required.

 

Application – The Application for Certificate of Title must be submitted to request the new title (and registration, if applicable).

 

Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor.

 

Odometer disclosure statement - The odometer reading will be certified on the certificate of origin or you may submit a separate odometer disclosure statement.

 

Contract from a board of education - This is needed for titling a school bus only. It certifies that your vehicle has been approved for use as a school bus.   

Proof of ownership – The ownership document must be for the vehicle frame used in building the reconstructed vehicle:

If the frame is new, the certificate of origin included with the kit is required.

If the frame is from a used vehicle, a title for the vehicle in your name or a title that has been properly assigned to you is required.

If the frame is from a salvaged vehicle, a salvage certificate in your name or a certificate that has been properly assigned to you is required.

Other documents that may establish ownership are:

Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age).

Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title, if applicable, or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). When the Maryland title is used as the application form, complete the section entitled Application for Title and Registration.

Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor.

Odometer disclosure statement - You may use the manufacturer’s certificate of origin or the title to document the mileage of the vehicle. A separate odometer disclosure statement may also be submitted.

Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number (if applicable) - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) may be assigned to the completed vehicle. The Maryland State Police will install the new VIN plate after they have inspected it.

Proof of ownership – Proof of ownership is required for the frame, engine and transmission used in building the motorcycle:

*If the frame, engine and/or transmission is new, the manufacturer's certificate of origin is required.

 

Other documents that may establish ownership are:

Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age).

=====Solution:=====

The state of Missouri apparently remains committed to the idea that a vehicle with a lost title can never have one again, at least not by the state of Missouri. It doesn't matter if the vehicle has all the VIN and cowl tags in place, if they have no record of it, it doesn't exist. They will allow a "551 inspection" done by select Highway Patrol officers, but only if the vehicle is 'finished', IE, runs and drives and passes inspection and looks like new inside and out. There is no meaningful legal way to own or title it before then. If the vehicle is built from parts, even if the shell you start with has tags on it, they want copious amounts of documentation on the origins of every nut and bolt apparently, if it didn't come from that car to start with.  

The state of Missouri has updated their website to include new information about titling classic vehicles. The procedure apparently goes like this: seek out your local county circuit court, and file for a "Declaratory Judgement" telling the judge your story and why the car belongs to you. If he/she decides in your favor and issues the judgment, send this form and a standard title application to the state and apparently they will issue title.

====Titling a Vehicle with No VIN Number or Title (Homemade Hot Rod)====

=====Step One=====

 

=====Step Two=====

 

=====Step Three=====

 

=====Step Four=====

 

=====Step Five=====

 

=====Step Six=====

 

=====Step Seven=====

 

The Certificate of Inspection/Affidavit of Vehicle Construction is vital. (This can be found at http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/rd64.pdf) On this form, a representative of a state-registered garage or body shop must complete the first part, as well as sections A, B, or C, as applicable.

====Other odd title information====

If the vehicle has a VIN number you must run a 50 state VIN check to verify if the vehicle is on the stolen list.  We do this by sending the "VIN check form" to our main MVD office in Santa Fe.  If it comes back clean we must obtain a "BOND" that usually costs 50 bones through a private insurance company that deals in bond insurance.  The bond is in case an owner comes along down the road and claims the vehicle as theirs.  The bond shuts them up.  Show the MVD all your bills of sale for the vehicle, the 50 state check and the bond and they issue you a clean title.  If you start with a "hybred hot rod" where the body is different than the frame, NM goes by what the frame is to determine the vehicle make and model. If the frame has a VIN number stamped in it, which most do in "secret places" only the State VIN inspectors know the locations.  If they find the VIN, they will title the vehicle by the frame number no matter what the body is!  You can put any body on any frame but the frame rules.

The "hard way" is a "home made vehicle" title.  This is required if you build a vehicle from scratch that doesn't have any VIN information.  Glass vehicles and "bare body builds" without VIN tags must go this route. If you build the frame from scratch you must go the home made vehicle route.  This is a bitch as the vehicle must meet all the standard safety features required of all vehicles like functional lights, turn signals, rear view mirrors, horn, Dual master cylinders and two means of stopping the vehicle, ie. functional emergency brake, windows, etc.  You must also get the vehicle weighed at a certified scale.  The vehicle will be titled as a current year vehicle as it was titled.  In other words if you build a 1930 hot rod it will be titled a 2012, or current year vehicle.  Yes, a 2012 Model A Ford.  Being a new vehicle it must also have ALL the fricken emissions crap required for the year of the engine if it's 1975 or newer! CATS, oxy sensors, canister etc, etc. Kinda takes the fun out of it but there is hope!!!  If the engine is 1974 or older, it doesn't require emissions testing and all you have to do is take it to the Emissions HQ in Albuquerque and obtain an emissions exemption certificate.  1975 and newer your screwed.

===New York===

EDIT>>> Please be sure to read this link below. If it gets passed into a law that will change how all vehicles in NC are registered. There is another amendment to this one that I can not find right now. These will affect how the cars are registered and insured since most insurance companies will not recognize the term "Custom Vehicle".

Ohio Year Of Manufacture Plates (as of Jan 2009)

http://bmv.ohio.gov/vehicle_registration/historical_model_year.htm

 

 

General Information: Purpose is to allow owners of historical vehicles to use Ohio plates for the same year as their vehicle was manufactured. (For More Information). (B) To qualify, motor vehicles must be at least 25 years old. They are solely collector's items and are used for participation in club activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, etc. They are NOT for general transportation.

Registrant Eligibility: These plates may be issued to any Ohio motorist. (B)These plates may be issued to any Ohio motorist. The vehicle must be 25 years of age or older. It is a collector's vehicle used in participation in club activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, but NOT for general transportation.  

Title Requirements: Ohio Certificate of Title issued in individual's name, either singly or jointly, or the name is the same name on the lease agreement.  

Vehicle Information: These plates may be used on any vehicle.  

Type of Plates: Registrant provides his/her own plates which must be serviceable and legible and issued by Ohio and inscribed with the same year when the vehicle was manufactured.(B)Stock, reserved, or personalized plates inscribed with the words Historical Vehicle Ohio (personalized plates may now contain up to six characters).  Model Year Plates are also permitted.

Issuance Information: Applicant must complete BMV Form 4806 (Affidavit For Registration) and BMV Form 4853 (Historical "Model-Year" Plate Information) and submit a copy of the model year plate(s).  

Cost: The fee is determined by Ohio Revised Code section 4503.181. (B)There is a one-time fee of $10.00.  The fee is determined by Ohio Revised Code section 4503.181.

Getting a Title in Oregon is not too difficult,  If everything is in order,, KEEP all your receipts,,if you are building the car from the ground up,, if you have No documentation for ownership of the car , you need these receipts, They will check places where VIN are hidden by the factory,, on the frame,, [actually Chevrolet didn't have VIN until 1950, but used a thin piece of metal with a series number placed under the drivers floor carpet,, first thing to rot away,,]  if no numbers are visible, they will check to make sure that the frame is original to the vehicle, [ not after market] if its aftermarket,, you need a receipt, same with a aftermarket body,, Receipt,, point of origin, bill of sale, then they will enter this information into their computer base and if its clear,, you will be issued a form to take to DMV to get a sticker with a new VIN, then you need to stamp those numbers somewhere on the frame, so if the vehicle is ever stolen,, you can identify where its stamped so they will know where to look, even if the numbers are ground off, they can still find them ,

If you are trying to register a car from another state,, they just look for the VIN number and verify it with the title you are presenting, they do a much better search of these numbers.

UPDATE: According to who you have to deal with at a DMV, getting past them can be a real difficult.

After getting the OK from the state Police who issued the certificate for a VIN number, I went to the DMV, expecting a normal transaction, they handed me 5 pages of forms to fill out, wanting to know how I came to own the car, all the receipts, pictures. I Did that, then back to the DMV, got a different person. 3 more pages of forms, did that... then They wanted copies of EVERY receipt I had, probably 500 pages. Finally after some talking, I convinced the guy that the state Police had already seen all these receipts and that if its good enough for them it should be good enough for the DMV, so he settled for copies of the major components: engine, tranny, rear end, etc etc, then he issued a VIN sticker. And you have to have the car there so THEY can apply the sticker. Then they issue you a 90 day trip permit so a special committee can review everything, but I don't expect a problem from them. Now that it has started to rain, at least it can be driven. The whole idea is to document the car as much as possible, like photos of the build process. Keep EVERY Receipt you get. Remember they are there to make sure this vehicle isn't stolen and they will do everything to find out if it is.

In Oregon vehicles were titled by engine number until 1955, then the vehicle was assigned a VIN to frame and body. The change was made due to motors being changed as they wore out. All vehicles made prior to 1955 are very easy to obtain a title for. Simply produce a Bill Of Sale or a title to vehicle with a VIN inspection done by Oregon State Police or any law enforcement officer or a DMV investigator and a 550 form (obtained at DMV). All these are taken to the DMV and a VIN will be assigned.

In Pennsylvania, in order to register and title a HOT ROD first the vehicle must be 1948 or older. No vehicles 1949 or newer can be registered as HOT RODS.

 

You cannot title a kit as a collectable. You must have a title and VIN tag (or copy of said tag) for the vehicle. The title and VIN must match. There is one stipulation in Pennsylvania. You cannot apply for a title or plate if the title has been considered "SCRAP" or "SCRAP" has been written on the title anywhere.  

 

(1) A collectible is a vehicle that can be driven like any street vehicle but it is covered by state inspection laws regarding (a) the year and make (b) the engine (emissions exemption). If the engine was produced prior to the emissions laws, it will require no CATS, EGR or PCV system.  

EXAMPLE: If you install a 1994 351 EFI Windsor, you will be required to have the computer, the cats, EGR etc.etc. Your ride will require an emission (exempt) sticker and a safety sticker that applies to the period of the vehicle.   

Once you have a TITLE you can apply for PLATES as required; either at time of transfer or later, if you are still working on the vehicle.  

Remember, in PA. the TITLE of CERTIFICATE is the (MV-4) certificate.

Now here is where it gets sticky...You must submit 6 photos of the vehicle at time of plate registration (even at time of title transfer). One photo from each side, one from rear and one from front. You also should submit one photo of the engine compartment and one of the exhaust system! That is correct, rack the vehicle and take a shot of that exhaust. I suggest you take a photo of the engine codes and markings. If your vehicle is "low-slung" (dropped axle) you also should document the steering, brakes and road clearances. All this information will help you obtain a collectible plate for your ride. This information will be submitted along with your application for a plate. You could wait up to 8 weeks for an answer, and even then PENNDOT may require more documentation. It can be a real nightmare.  

''ANTIQUE, CLASSIC and MODIFIED titles and plate information is not covered here.''

In order to title this 'rebuilt' vehicle, you will need the following:

Surrender any previous titles ,

Complete Form 400, Application for Title --

Complete Form 4038, Affidavit of Rebuilt/Homemade Vehicle --

Complete Form 401A, Application for a Special Serial Number --

Invoices, bills, other proof of purchase --

Liability insurance information--

Paid vehicle property tax receipt --

Pay fees ($15 title, $24 registration/license

Some vehicles of course will not need to get a special serial number,

because you have a valid previous title and VIN.

One way is to do an assembled vehicle and keep track of your receipts, and importantly any items that you paid sales tax on. Then you use an Affidavit  Rebuilt Motor Vehicle DOR-MV 950 10/92. This is the same form you would use to make one vehicle from 2 and is formatted more for that purpose. When using this method you will file the form after the car is finished at which time it gets inspected and they may or may not title it as the vehicle you choose (say a 29 Ford roadster) or as a home built I guess depending on how the inspecting officer views it.

The following applies to [[Fiberglassing|fiberglass]] bodied cars & trucks bought as a kit.

====Texas Bonded Title Info====

I may miss a step or 2 but the process goes something like this if it hasn't been titled in the last 16 years,, which is how far back the state's records are kept.

====Texas Vehicle Title and Registration FAQs And Popular Related Links====

[http://www.txdot.gov/txdot_library/drivers_vehicles/forms/default.htm Texas Vehicle Title and Registration Forms]

 

 

 

 

 

The last option you have is if your vehicle has NO VIN at all. This means no data plate, no frame number, or no original engine number. From what I have been told by the DPS up to 1954 all vehicles were registered with the motor number. GM vehicles did not have frame numbers until 1949, Ford had frames numbers from 1932. This also covers assembled vehicles using a manufactured prefabricated body.

*Short cut on older vehicles when VIN was the engine number only. Take your purchased title, or New York registration, etc. to the DMV (or auto title company) and ask for "title transfer only". (It is purchasing the plates that triggers most of the above.) In a few weeks you will receive your new Texas title. Now go buy the plates. No questions asked, no inspections necessary. Get a vehicle ID plate engraved with the number on the title and attach it to the firewall. Go get a state inspection.

 

Virginia Form VSA 22, Application for Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

VSA 17A, Application for Vehicle Title

Notarized Manufacturer’s Statement of Origin (MSO)

Bill of sale for the body and frame

Bill of sale for the engine

Bill of sale for the transmission

Notarized statement of vehicle construction

Photo of the vehicle in ready-to-run condition

A check in the amount of  

- $130.00 for VIN application and fees

- plus $10.00 for the Title,  

- plus 3% of the value of the body, frame, engine and transmission (they don’t seem to care about all the other receipts)

Proof of Virginia residence

To start with one needs to visit the DOL website..

====Built out of State====

 

====Built in State====

 

====Registering for the First Time====

 

===== Hobby vehicles which already have a VIN =====

 

Street Modified vehicles qualify for either a normal license plate (personalized plates, etc.) or a Hobbyist Plate.  The advantage of a hobby plate is that you pay a one time fee, approximately $160, but then the plate is good for your lifetime.  It can also be transferred to another car should you sell the existing car and purchase another which also qualifies for the Hobby plate.  If you purchase additional qualified vehicles, the plate cost for each is reduced to $110.  

===== Hobby vehicles without a VIN =====

 

===== Antique and collector cars =====

 

4) Full details are available at the [http://www.dot.state.wi.us/drivers/vehicles/personal/special/hobbyist.htm Hobbyist License Plates section] of the Wisconsin Department of Transportation.

===== Application Process on WDOT Website =====

====Contact Details====

====Additional Resources====

*'''ALL HOTRODS''' ''currently'' being ''newly'' registered in Western Australia are on a '''B CLASS''' license. This simply means that you have to present the car for inspection every 12 months when your yearly registration fee is due. The inspection is carried out by the TAC inspectors and NOT the Government department. A small fee is charged for this inspection and most see it as a good opportunity for a regular check up of the vehicle rather than an incursion of their rights. Of course some see it the other way too! That's good old human nature at work! Be a bugger if we all thought the same............

It is my understanding that a Rod builder can go outside of the TAC guidelines and as such bypass the 3 inspection process? To do this he/she will require the services a mechanical engineer to sign off all aspects of the vehicle. The engineer must be authorised by the Department of Planning & Infrastrucure to carry out these vehicle assessments. This can be a costly route but if you wish to construct a rod that is outside the guidelines then it is your only choice. With the extra cost involved aside, it is getting increasingly difficult to find suitably authorised engineers who are prepared to sign off modifications. It's more to do with the current ''atmosphere'' surrounding litigation laws than anything else, ie; When or if something goes wrong, who is going to take responsibility? The owner or the engineer who signed the modifications off?  

=====DISCLAIMER:=====  

====Note About this Information:====

Canadian Rodder presents this information exacty as provided by the Ontario Ministry of Transportation. It has not been edited except to format it for presentation purposes. We are not in a position to interpret the information beyond what is stated or to give advice on unique situations. We hope you will find this information useful.

====Registering a Vehicle in Ontario====

=====About “Street Rods / Hot Rods”=====

=====Classic Vehicles - Historic Vehicles=====

=====Custom Vehicles - Kit Cars / Rebuilt Vehicles=====

=====Kit Car=====

V.I.N.: Assigned as "ASD" if no 17 -digit V.I.N. on dashboard of kit body

Make: Manufacturer of kit

Model: KIT

Model Year: Year that the kit car was completed and registered with the ministry. If there is not an existing 17-digit V.I.N. on the dashboard, you may request the licence office to provide you with a ministry assigned V.I.N., which you should affix to the dashboard. A V.I.N. is needed before you can obtain a Safety Standards Certificate.

=====Rebuilt Vehicle=====

Constructed using various main component parts (body, chassis or frame) obtained from other vehicles or from auto wreckers, dealers or manufacturers, and whose vehicle identification number (V.I.N.), make, model or model year has been affected by this reconstruction. Rebuilt vehicles are registered in Ontario as:

V.I.N.: Of body of the vehicle (CHASSIS/FRAME V.I.N. is not used). If there is no longer an existing V.I.N. on the dashboard, you may request the licence issuing office to provide you with a ministry - assigned as RBT V.I.N., which you should affix to the dashboard. A V.I.N is needed before you can obtain a Safety Standards Certificate.  

MAKE: Manufacturer of body of the vehicle (CHASSIS/FRAME manufacturer is not used)  

MODEL: RBT

MODEL YEAR: Year that the motor vehicle car was rebuilt and registered with the ministry.

=====Homemade Vehicle=====

Constructed without using manufactured main components (e.g. body and chassis / frame both made from scratch), and therefore has no V.I.N.  

 

Kit cars are not homemade vehicles, for registration purposes

 

Kit car owners should be aware of a problem with the misuse of the "homemade" classification in registering their motor vehicles.

Correcting Permit From Model "Hom" (Or Other) To Model "KIT"  

If a kit car has been incorrectly registered as model "HOM", to correct the registration, it will be necessary to file a new notarized affidavit with MTO. The new affidavit must properly identify the vehicle as a "KIT," and clearly state the name and address of the manufacturer of the kit or kit body, and also the V.I.N. for the chassis, if the chassis was taken from another vehicle, and the name and address of the previous owner of the chassis. If a specialty frame was used in the construction, instead of using a chassis from another used motor vehicle, this must also be stated in the affidavit, and you must give the name and address of the manufacturer of the specialty frame. If the specialty frames does not have a V.I.N., this should also be stated. We will also need the serial number of the engine and what vehicle it was taken from (make, model year and V.I.N.) and the name and address of the previous owner.

====V.I.N. Requirements====

=====Kit Car=====

If a kit car does not have a 17-digit vehicle identification number (V.I.N.) on the dashboard, MTO will assign a V.I.N. starting with "ASD" at the time the owner brings in the notarized affidavit for the vehicle, and registers it as "unfit" and unplated. The owner then gets the safety standards certificate using the ASD V.I.N.

=====Rebuilt Vehicle=====

For a rebuilt vehicle where the body V.I.N. cannot be determined, MTO will assign a 17 digit V.I.N. starting with "RBT" at the time the owner brings in the notarized affidavit for the vehicle, and registers it as "unfit" and unplated. The owner then gets the safety standards certificate using the RBT V.I.N.

Registration Requirements for Kit Cars / Rebuilt Vehicles

The following items should be presented at any at any independently operated Driver and Vehicle Licence Issuing Office in Ontario:

http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/dandv/issoff.htm

====Notarized Affidavit Requirements====

=====Contents=====

2. Vehicle description - minimum requirements: make, model, model year, body type and class). If you are attaching permits and/or bills of sale for the component parts, please mention this. Where permits or bills of sale are not available, you must include the V.I.N.s and descriptions of all vehicles from which main component parts have been taken, and list previous owner information for such vehicles  

3. Vehicle Identification Number (V.I.N.), or a statement that a ministry approved/assigned V.I.N. will be used

====Kit Car Notarized Affidavit Q & A's====

====Vehicle Safety Standards Requirements====

====Mininum Safety Standards For On-Road Use====

====Emission Inspection (Drive Clean) Requirements====

===Germany===

 

===New Zealand===

===UK===

Need details on this. How do they work? How do their differ state-to-state or region-to-region? Legality? Cost?

*[http://getnewtitle.com GetNewTitle.com]

*[http://www.its-titles.com/ International Title Service]

[[Category:Good articles]]