Freeing a stuck engine
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==Preparation== | ==Preparation== | ||
What you discovered above will lead you to understanding the solution to unsticking the engine. An engine that was in a covered shed, had no visible sign of water infiltration, and was full of oil and coolant- but stuck- is usually an easy fix. The rings, which are cast iron, are usually stuck to the cast iron cylinder walls but only in the cylinders which are open to the atmosphere. If you followed the firing order of the engine, you could determine which are open cylinders and which are closed. You can start by pulling the spark plugs out and inject [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Removing_stuck_fasteners#Some_recommended_penetrating_fluids penetrating oil] with a trigger type oil can.<br> | What you discovered above will lead you to understanding the solution to unsticking the engine. An engine that was in a covered shed, had no visible sign of water infiltration, and was full of oil and coolant- but stuck- is usually an easy fix. The rings, which are cast iron, are usually stuck to the cast iron cylinder walls but only in the cylinders which are open to the atmosphere. If you followed the firing order of the engine, you could determine which are open cylinders and which are closed. You can start by pulling the spark plugs out and inject [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Removing_stuck_fasteners#Some_recommended_penetrating_fluids penetrating oil] with a trigger type oil can.<br> | ||
| − | {{Note1}} Diesel fuel reeks and will leave a foul smell on everything it comes in contact with. For that reason, diesel fuel is not recommended for use unless that is all that's available. Marvel Mystery Oil, PB blaster or WD-40 are all acceptable, and kerosene or kerosene/ATF mixed together works as well. (Note that WD-40 was ''not'' originally intended as a penetrating oil, and is really not very good in this role.) DO NOT use gasoline or other highly flammable solvents as they do not provide any lubricity, plus they are a respiratory and fire hazard. Some years ago, a machinists magazine did a [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=machinist+magazine+penetrating+oil controlled study on penetrating oils], and found that | + | {{Note1}} Diesel fuel reeks and will leave a foul smell on everything it comes in contact with. For that reason, diesel fuel is not recommended for use unless that is all that's available. Marvel Mystery Oil, PB blaster or WD-40 are all acceptable, and kerosene or kerosene/ATF mixed together works as well. (Note that WD-40 was ''not'' originally intended as a penetrating oil, and is really not very good in this role.) DO NOT use gasoline or other highly flammable solvents as they do not provide any lubricity, plus they are a respiratory and fire hazard. Some years ago, a machinists magazine did a [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=machinist+magazine+penetrating+oil controlled study on penetrating oils], and found that ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone out-performed all other penetrating oils by a wide margin. However, acetone is highly flammable and should be handled with care. (Not surprisingly, this same study showed that, while WD-40 is better than nothing, it's not very good when compared to products which are designed for this purpose.) |
[[File:MMO gall.png|MMO gall.png]] [[File:W-d40 gallon.jpg]][[File:PB Blaster gallon.jpg]] | [[File:MMO gall.png|MMO gall.png]] [[File:W-d40 gallon.jpg]][[File:PB Blaster gallon.jpg]] | ||
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