Troubleshooting brakes

Jump to: navigation, search

@@ Line 40: / Line 40: @@
 You should now know where the leak is and how to correctly price out the repair for your customer.
+..........................................................
+Destructive testing method is even faster, but by its nature if there is a problem…, you will be fixing something!!!
+Set the car on the lift and get it ready but don’t lift it.  Open the hood check fluid level in the master and top off.   Get in the car, engine off, radio off and simulate a panic stop.
+Pump the brakes full travel 3 – 5 times hard.  If there is a weakness in the system, it WILL break!!!
+Listen for pop and hiss from the brake lines and wheels.  Get out of the car, check the fluid level and replace the top, and lift the car.
+With a flashlight, trace and inspect all your lines, the backs of all of the tires and look for signs of leaks.  If there is no leaking, and you had no pedal at all, then the master is trash.  You will need to R & R the master.
+Inspect the front and rear brakes and price out what you have to do to bring car back to OEM specs.  If all the pads and shoes are good, then at a minimum figure on inspection (Micrometer) and re-truing (turning) the drums and rotors and button up.
+Remember…,  air is compressible and liquid is not.
+If the pedal is spongy it has air in the system.
+If there is no pedal or will not firm up or hold a pedal, you are lacking fluid.
+Loss of fluid usually means a leak.

Revision as of 12:13, 3 February 2012