Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft
(→2016-JAN-21 TEARDOWN) |
(→2016-JAN-22 - TEARDOWN, THE REST) |
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'''WARNING!''' | '''WARNING!''' | ||
| − | Light tapping should be well enough to have the piston slide out. If you hit resistance re-check your rod alignment with the bore. When dealing with really old engines with many many miles check the ridge on top of the bore. Check the bores for rust. If all fails it may be necessary to carefully | + | Light tapping should be well enough to have the piston slide out. If you hit resistance re-check your rod alignment with the bore. When dealing with really old engines with many many miles check the ridge on top of the bore. Check the bores for rust. If all fails it may be necessary to carefully push the rods and pistons up (towards heads) as much as possible and remove the crank first to pull the pistons out of the bores below. You may have to loosen all the bolts, remove the outer ones in order to be able to access all the inner ones with the crank in a horizontal position, then remove all the mains and pull the crank. |
Or maybe the best advice is to ask your machine shop or take the block to the shop right away. | Or maybe the best advice is to ask your machine shop or take the block to the shop right away. | ||
| + | If ridges are found to be the obstruction it may be best to ask your machine shop to remove them. | ||
'''CRANK REMOVAL''' | '''CRANK REMOVAL''' | ||
| − | By removing the crank and the main bearing caps I can put the block | + | By removing the crank and the main bearing caps I can put the block back upside down and it will rest on the deck edges nicely for transport. Be sure to place the block that way only on clean surfaces possibly with a piece of board underneath as it is standing on machined surfaces. To remove the crank, crack all the bolts on the caps and remove them. I again kept them in the order I have removed them from. Clean and check the bearing surface. The crank has no discolorations which is a good sign. Seems that it never overheated somewhere. The bearings show normal wear for a 120'000 miles engine. Once all the caps were off I found one with a scratch through about 100 degrees of the lower half of the bearing. The small debris embedded itself into the soft bearing surface and did not scratch the crank too badly. A bearing is supposed to do exactly this - embedd debris into the soft layer. This is one of the reasons for a soft surface. Packed all neatly into the boxes and two large cardboard boxes and transported it home. |
== 2016-FEB-12 - DISASSEMBLY, HEADS AND BLOCK, CLEANING == | == 2016-FEB-12 - DISASSEMBLY, HEADS AND BLOCK, CLEANING == | ||
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