Building Chevy 4.3 liter V6 - 1994 with balance shaft
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By removing the crank and the main bearing caps I can put the block back upside and it will rest on the base nicely for transport. To remove the crank crack all the bolts on the caps and remove them. I again kept them in the order I have removed them from. Clean and check the bearing surface. The crank has no discolorations which is a good sign. Seems that it never overheated somewhere. The bearings show normal wear for a 120'000 miles engine. Once all the caps were off I found one with a scratch through about 100 degrees of the lower half of the bearing. The small debris embedded itself into the soft bearing surface and did not scratch the crank as it is supposed to do. This is one of the reasons for a soft surface. Packed all neatly into the boxes and two large cardboard boxes and transported it home. | By removing the crank and the main bearing caps I can put the block back upside and it will rest on the base nicely for transport. To remove the crank crack all the bolts on the caps and remove them. I again kept them in the order I have removed them from. Clean and check the bearing surface. The crank has no discolorations which is a good sign. Seems that it never overheated somewhere. The bearings show normal wear for a 120'000 miles engine. Once all the caps were off I found one with a scratch through about 100 degrees of the lower half of the bearing. The small debris embedded itself into the soft bearing surface and did not scratch the crank as it is supposed to do. This is one of the reasons for a soft surface. Packed all neatly into the boxes and two large cardboard boxes and transported it home. | ||
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| + | == 2016-FEB-12 - DISASSEMBLY, HEADS AND BLOCK, CLEANING == | ||
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| + | Taking the heads apart was easy with the appropriate tools. Valve spring compressor and a magnetic pick and valves are out of the heads within 30 minutes. Took the block and heads to my shop where they pulled the plugs. Some of the freeze-plugs had already started to leak from corrosion which hat eaten through from inside. Then had block and heads hot tanked. I gave them a thorough wash with the pressure washer. Then cleaned all with brushes and parts cleaner at the shop. All color is removed from the block as well as all the sooth from where it could be accessed. Brushed out the runners with a compressed air tool and a fine metal brush. Then took a grinding stone and got rid of all the casting ridges and brows. Chamfered all sharp edges taking care not to damage any seal areas. | ||
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== NEXT STEPS == | == NEXT STEPS == | ||
| − | I'll have to get my block and heads then I'll put the first and last cam bearing back into place to measure all the stuff from OEM and determine machining specs. | + | I'll have to get my block and heads then I'll put the first and last cam bearing back into place to measure all the stuff from OEM and determine machining specs. Valvetrain geometry will be next to see if 1.6:1 rockers will fit. I'll retain the original valve diameters of 1.94 and 1.50 inches. I have to check with an engine builder close by which has just built a Ford big block using CompCams stuff on the heads. |
Looks like the heads will have the pressed studs removed and replaced with screw in studs and the valvespring pockets will be machined as well as the stud bosses to get good seating for springs and studs. | Looks like the heads will have the pressed studs removed and replaced with screw in studs and the valvespring pockets will be machined as well as the stud bosses to get good seating for springs and studs. | ||
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