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  | + | There are several methods for locating vacuum leaks. Occasionally, you may experience a vacuum leak into the intake ports from the crankcase of the motor due to the intake manifold / cylinder head interface not being machined parallel. No amount of propane or carburetor cleaner will find such a leak. The best way is to insure the elimination of such a problem while building the engine. See the wiki article: [[Manifold/Head vacuum leak, internal]].  | 
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  | + | =Propane method=  | 
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  | + | #Get a soldering propane tank and valve attachment.  | 
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  | + | #Unscrew the end of it so you have a threaded pipe without the nozzle.  | 
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  | + | #Attach a 2 foot piece of hose to the end.  | 
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  | + | #Start the engine and let it warm up a bit.  | 
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  | + | #Turn on the propane and run the hose all around the vacuum lines and the bottom of the carb.  | 
|   | + | #If the engine smooths out or revs up a bit, you have found your leak.  | 
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|   | + | Hold bottle UPRIGHT during testing as liquid propane may run out of an inverted bottle.  | 
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|   | + | PLEASE do this in a well ventilated area due to propane gas and exhaust fumes!!  | 
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|   | + | Fixing a leak.  My old neighbor built circle track cars and after the ran the engine  he would shut it off...tape off every opening with duct tape then put a hose over the dip stick and hook up to a vacuum source.  He would then get his stethascope and listen in the area where the propane or carb fluid indicated a leak.  he used Rtv and calked into the area until the stethascope whistle stopped. too much vacuum will pull too much calk into the hole.  | 
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|   | + | =Carburetor cleaner method=  | 
|   | + | #With the car running, using a can of carburetor cleaner spray down the hoses and vacuum connections.  | 
|   | + | #Notice a change in the running of the engine and you might have found your leak.  | 
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|   | + | [[Category:Engine]]  |