How to title a hot rod

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==Overview==
 
==Overview==
 
[[Image:Title_california.jpg|300px|thumb]]
 
[[Image:Title_california.jpg|300px|thumb]]
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How to title a hot rod, in 50 US states and various countries.  
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to title a hot rod, in 50 US states and various countries.  
  
 
==United States==
 
==United States==
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Note: Due to the limited number of SPCNS Certificates of Sequence available, you may wish to submit your application for registration in person at a local DMV office.
 
Note: Due to the limited number of SPCNS Certificates of Sequence available, you may wish to submit your application for registration in person at a local DMV office.
  
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====Example:====
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======Example:======
 
'27 T roadster body only. Plans call for a homemade frame, turbo 2.3L, T5, etc. Remember, T's had the original VIN on the engine block and it's long gone. The only things I walked into DMV with were a 'bill of sale' from the previous owner, the craigslist ad where I found it, a picture of the car in my backyard, and these forms:
 
'27 T roadster body only. Plans call for a homemade frame, turbo 2.3L, T5, etc. Remember, T's had the original VIN on the engine block and it's long gone. The only things I walked into DMV with were a 'bill of sale' from the previous owner, the craigslist ad where I found it, a picture of the car in my backyard, and these forms:
 
*Form 343..........Application for Title or Registration
 
*Form 343..........Application for Title or Registration
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* Use the Department of Motor Vehicles telephone center to make an appointment for a composite vehicle inspection. Composite inspections are done at the Wethersfield office only by appointment.  
 
* Use the Department of Motor Vehicles telephone center to make an appointment for a composite vehicle inspection. Composite inspections are done at the Wethersfield office only by appointment.  
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* Transfer the vehicle by flat-bed truck or trailer to the inspection station. You cannot drive or tow the vehicle. None of its wheels can touch the ground until it passes inspection and you are granted a registration.  
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* Tranport the vehicle by flat-bed truck or trailer to the inspection station. You cannot drive or tow the vehicle. None of its wheels can touch the ground until it passes inspection and you are granted a registration.  
 
* Complete an application for composite inspection and bring it to the DMV inspection station, along with two photos of the vehicle and all supporting documents―including titles and receipts for all major parts. The inspection fee is $88 and the VIN costs another $50.  
 
* Complete an application for composite inspection and bring it to the DMV inspection station, along with two photos of the vehicle and all supporting documents―including titles and receipts for all major parts. The inspection fee is $88 and the VIN costs another $50.  
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* If your vehicle passes inspection, the DMV inspector will assign a VIN to your vehicle, which will allow you to begin the standard process of applying for a registration and title. If you fail, you can ask for a re-inspection without going through the appointment process.
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* If your vehicle passes inspection the DMV inspector will assign a VIN to your vehicle, which will allow you to begin the standard process of applying for a registration and title. If you fail, you can ask for a re-inspection without going through the appointment process.
  
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You're also going to have to submit your vehicle for an emissions exam. Some vehicles are exempt from emissions testing. Until January 2007, any composite vehicle that is not exempt must pass standard state emission testing. After new rules go into effect in January 2007, composite vehicles will have to meet specific standards.
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You're also going to have to submit your vehicle for an emissions exam. Some vehicles are exempt from emissions testing. Until January 2007, any composite vehicle that is '''not''' exempt must pass standard state emission testing. After new rules go into effect in January 2007, composite vehicles will have to meet specific standards.
  
 
====Exempt vehicles====
 
====Exempt vehicles====
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Homemade trailers have their own registration process, and they receive special tags. Such trailers are not titled.
 
Homemade trailers have their own registration process, and they receive special tags. Such trailers are not titled.
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'Kit' and Replica vehicles are registered in the state of GA with a salvage title only.  Even if you have a clean, valid title from another state, GA will change your title to salvage and change the year on your title to the year the vehicle was built.  This means it may need to meet emissions standards.  There is no exemption. (current as of 4/19/17)  If you live in one of the 13 counties requiring emissions testing, you can forget about having a kit or replica vehicle...ie, Cobra.
  
 
====Registration periods====
 
====Registration periods====
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*[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_registration/apply_custom_rod.html Illinois DMV info]
 
*[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_registration/apply_custom_rod.html Illinois DMV info]
 
*[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/publications/pdf_publications/rtopr2615.pdf Bonded title info]
 
*[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/publications/pdf_publications/rtopr2615.pdf Bonded title info]
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*[http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/ilcs/ilcs4.asp?DocName=062500050HCh%2E+3+Art%2E+III&ActID=1815&ChapterID=49&SeqStart=39600000&SeqEnd=40500000 Illinois Vehicle Code (625 ILCS 5/)]
  
 
===Indiana===
 
===Indiana===
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In addition, either the seller or the Buyer will need to have a "Visual Inspection" (TV-7) completed by a law enforcement agency. At the same time, they must obtain a "Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report" from that agency.
 
In addition, either the seller or the Buyer will need to have a "Visual Inspection" (TV-7) completed by a law enforcement agency. At the same time, they must obtain a "Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report" from that agency.
  
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The Buyer must then forward the seller's notarized bill of sale as described above, along with the TV-7, the Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report from a law enforcement agency, and a completed RMV-1 plus the $50.00 title fee, to Auto Theft. Auto Theft will evaluate the information presented, run a check on the vehicle, and if satisfactory, will direct that a Title be issued and sent to the BUYER. Once the title has been received, the BUYER may then register the vehicle.
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I am having trouble getting the "Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report" Since the car is not stolen the cops don't see a need. They told me to do a carfax, but I don't think the RMV will accept that.  
 
I am having trouble getting the "Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report" Since the car is not stolen the cops don't see a need. They told me to do a carfax, but I don't think the RMV will accept that.  
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The forms are basic and just ask the standard stuff like VIN numbers, receipts for major components etc. I had to sign an affidavit stating it wasn't stolen or anything. You only need a bond if you are titling a high value vehicle
 
The forms are basic and just ask the standard stuff like VIN numbers, receipts for major components etc. I had to sign an affidavit stating it wasn't stolen or anything. You only need a bond if you are titling a high value vehicle
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*Note: The original author did not actually "title" the vehicle. A title will only be issued after properly bonding the vehicle, no matter it's value. The title will be branded as "Bonded" for a period of three years, after which it can be cleared from the title. If the vehicle is custom built or has major components from several vehicles, then all VIN/Serial numbers on major components (engine, transmission, frame, etc.) will need to be recorded and photographed. The vehicle may still be registered and driven on the road legally, while awaiting the title, though. Of course, depending on the DMV location, you may be able to get away without any of this. See your local DMV agent to ask for their requirements, as some almost never deal with custom or homebuilt vehicles.
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For more detailed information on Minnesota's title process: https://www.dmv.com/mn/minnesota/custom-vehicle-registration
  
 
===Mississippi===
 
===Mississippi===
  
 
===Missouri===
 
===Missouri===
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The state of Missouri apparently remains committed to the idea that a vehicle with a lost title can never have one again, at least not by the state of Missouri. It doesn't matter if the vehicle has all the VIN and cowl tags in place, if they have no record of it, it doesn't exist. They will allow a "551 inspection" done by select Highway Patrol officers, but only if the vehicle is 'finished', IE, runs and drives and passes inspection and looks like new inside and out. There is no meaningful legal way to own or title it before then. If the vehicle is built from parts, even if the shell you start with has tags on it, they want copious amounts of documentation on the origins of every nut and bolt apparently, if it didn't come from that car to start with.
 
  
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The state of Missouri has updated their website to include new information about titling classic vehicles. The procedure apparently goes like this: seek out your local county circuit court, and file for a "Declaratory Judgement" telling the judge your story and why the car belongs to you. If he/she decides in your favor and issues the judgment, send this form and a standard title application to the state and apparently they will issue title.
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Several methods exist in Missouri to title a classic vehicle. Read and research carefully on the State's website the various ways to obtain a vehicle title, and determine which is most appropriate for your individual circumstances.
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If your vehicle still has the standard VIN plate in it's original location, the first step is to call or visit any local law enforcement with the vehicle's VIN number. They will immediately check for any previous report of the vehicle being stolen. A "stolen" report never goes off file in Missouri, so be prepared to answer lots of questions in the very unlikely event your vehicle was previously reported stolen.
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A little patience and kindness goes a long way, and many times the officer will tell you who the vehicle was last titled to. Approaching that person to request a duplicate title is often the easiest way to get a new replacement/duplicate title, which they can then sign over to you.
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On much older vehicles, the VIN may come back as "not on file/no record". This would generally be the case with a vehicle that has not legally changed hands in 25 or more years. Before the computer age, older DMV records were not saved past 25 years in Missouri. At this point it may be worth contacting the State Archives to check for a record there. Their motor vehicle records apparently go back 35 years.
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If the State Archives has nothing on file, a "bonded title" procedure may be followed to obtain title. This involves lots of legwork, paperwork, purchase of a bond, etc, but is one way to get it done.
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The vehicle will need a 551 inspection. The form for this costs $27 at the license bureau. This form expires 6 months after purchasing it. A Highway Patrol vehicle inspection station can complete this form. Many of them will say the vehicle must be complete/finished/in running condition before they will inspect it. If your car is not yet completed, call around to other Highway Patrol inspection stations and check with them. Additionally, St. Louis City Auto Theft Bureau, or St. Louis County Auto Theft Bureau may inspect it, and I was able to persuade them to come to me, as my car was incomplete and non-operational at the time (and located in St. Louis County). I also filled out a standard DOR-108 title application.
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I obtained written appraisals from two licensed auto dealers. Short and sweet, without too much detail. (These were the hardest to get, as so many dealers aren't willing to write an appraisal on a car they aren't involved in a transaction with, so this step is considerably easier if you know people who will write the appraisals.)
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I filled out an affidavit stating how I came in to possession of the vehicle. I then purchased a bond for twice my car's appraised value. (The cost was $100 for a $3000 bond. Your insurance company can advise who to purchase the bond from, called an "Abandoned Vehicle Title Bond").
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I drove my stack of paperwork to Jefferson City in person and submitted it. I received a clear, non-prior salvage title about 10 days later.
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Several different procedures exist that are substantially easier to accomplish than above, if the vehicle is complete and in running condition. Storage or Mechanic's Lien titles may be appropriate for some situations. Obtaining a "Declaratory Judgment" from a local circuit court may also work, and this might be better for a vehicle that has a 'distressed' title, such as pre-dated, signed in the wrong place, etc.
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Seek out your local county circuit court and file for a "Declaratory Judgement" telling the judge your story and why the car belongs to you. If he/she decides in your favor and issues the judgment, this form and a standard title application sent or delivered to the State and they have to issue title. There are "Specially Reconstructed Vehicle", Salvage titles, and many other options.
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Note- You may not be able to get an appointment to "see" the judge.  You may have to hire an attorney and present a case and go through the whole legal (read bureaucratic) system.
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Read the instructions, figure out which options are best for you, be patient. It can be done. See the State of Missouri's website for more details:
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Missouri Motor Vehicle and Marinecraft Titling Manual.pdf
  
 
===Montana===
 
===Montana===
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Registering your custom-built car is a fairly simple process―probably much simpler than the vehicle construction itself. It's much like registering any other motor vehicle, except for one additional form and a required inspection.
 
Registering your custom-built car is a fairly simple process―probably much simpler than the vehicle construction itself. It's much like registering any other motor vehicle, except for one additional form and a required inspection.
  
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The Certificate of Inspection/Affidavit of Vehicle Construction is vital. (This can be found at http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/rd64.pdf) On this form, a representative of a state-registered garage or body shop must complete the first part, as well as sections A, B, or C, as applicable.
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The Certificate of Inspection/Affidavit of Vehicle Construction is vital. (This can be found at http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/vp064.pdf) On this form, a representative of a state-registered garage or body shop must complete the first part, as well as sections A, B, or C, as applicable.
  
 
The garage representative will inspect the vehicle and give various parts of your car a "pass" or "fail" related to safety and state requirements. Once all parts receive a pass, he or she will then sign off on the vehicle, stating that it's safe to operate on Nevada roads. Now you can proceed with the registration.
 
The garage representative will inspect the vehicle and give various parts of your car a "pass" or "fail" related to safety and state requirements. Once all parts receive a pass, he or she will then sign off on the vehicle, stating that it's safe to operate on Nevada roads. Now you can proceed with the registration.
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I called the NJMVS and requested their titling/registration package for what they describe as a "specialty vehicle". A lot of red tape, but bottom line is that you need to document entire build with corresponding costs...They want to see how much you paid for everything so that they can charge sales tax, just like if you purchased a new vehicle off of the lot. If you have sales receipts for parts that the tax was already paid, that I guess would be exempt. As I get further into this, I'll post update or revise as necessary.
 
I called the NJMVS and requested their titling/registration package for what they describe as a "specialty vehicle". A lot of red tape, but bottom line is that you need to document entire build with corresponding costs...They want to see how much you paid for everything so that they can charge sales tax, just like if you purchased a new vehicle off of the lot. If you have sales receipts for parts that the tax was already paid, that I guess would be exempt. As I get further into this, I'll post update or revise as necessary.
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Update by steve392 on 10/3/07...Got further into it with NJMVS. A specialty (or reconstructed) vehicle will be titled in the year in which it is completed. So instead of having a '41 Willys, '32 Ford, etc., if you title it this year, it will officially be a 2007. The make will be "REC" (for reconstructed) and the model will be "Custom".
 
  
 
===New Mexico===
 
===New Mexico===
 
We have a couple ways of registering vehicles without titles.
 
We have a couple ways of registering vehicles without titles.
  
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If the vehicle has a VIN number you must run a 50 state VIN check to verify if the vehicle is on the stolen list.  We do this by sending the "VIN check form" to our main MVD office in Santa Fe.  If it comes back clean we must obtain a "BOND" that usually costs 50 bones through a private insurance company that deals in bond insurance.  The bond is in case an owner comes along down the road and claims the vehicle as theirs.  The bond shuts them up.  Show the MVD all your bills of sale for the vehicle, the 50 state check and the bond and they issue you a clean title.  If you start with a "hybred hot rod" where the body is different than the frame, NM goes by what the frame is to determine the vehicle make and model. If the frame has a VIN number stamped in it, which most do in "secret places" only the State VIN inspectors know the locations.  If they find the VIN, they will title the vehicle by the frame number no matter what the body is!  You can put any body on any frame but the frame rules.
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If the vehicle has a VIN number you must run a 50 state VIN check to verify if the vehicle is on the stolen list.  We do this by sending the "VIN check form" to our main MVD office in Santa Fe.  If it comes back clean we must obtain a "BOND" that usually costs 50 bones through a private insurance company that deals in bond insurance.  The bond is in case an owner comes along down the road and claims the vehicle as theirs.  The bond shuts them up.  Show the MVD all your bills of sale for the vehicle, the 50 state check and the bond and they issue you a clean title.  If you start with a "hybrid hot rod" where the body is different than the frame, NM goes by what the frame is to determine the vehicle make and model. If the frame has a VIN number stamped in it, which most do in "secret places" only the State VIN inspectors know the locations.  If they find the VIN, they will title the vehicle by the frame number no matter what the body is!  You can put any body on any frame but the frame rules.
  
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The "hard way" is a "home made vehicle" title.  This is required if you build a vehicle from scratch that doesn't have any VIN information.  Glass vehicles and "bare body builds" without VIN tags must go this route. If you build the frame from scratch you must go the home made vehicle route.  This is a bitch as the vehicle must meet all the standard safety features required of all vehicles like functional lights, turn signals, rear view mirrors, horn, Dual master cylinders and two means of stopping the vehicle, ie. functional emergency brake, windows, etc.  You must also get the vehicle weighed at a certified scale.  The vehicle will be titled as a current year vehicle as it was titled.  In other words if you build a 1930 hot rod it will be titled a 2012, or current year vehicle.  Yes, a 2012 Model A Ford.  Being a new vehicle it must also have ALL the fricken emissions crap required for the year of the engine if it's 1975 or newer! CATS, oxy sensors, canister etc, etc. Kinda takes the fun out of it but there is hope!!!  If the engine is 1974 or older, it doesn't require emissions testing and all you have to do is take it to the Emissions HQ in Albuquerque and obtain an emissions exemption certificate.  1975 and newer your screwed.
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The "hard way" is a "home made vehicle" title.  This is required if you build a vehicle from scratch that doesn't have any VIN information.  Glass vehicles and "bare body builds" without VIN tags must go this route. If you build the frame from scratch you must go the home made vehicle route.  This is a bitch as the vehicle must meet all the standard safety features required of all vehicles like functional lights, turn signals, rear view mirrors, horn, Dual master cylinders and two means of stopping the vehicle, i.e. functional emergency brake, windows, etc.  You must also get the vehicle weighed at a certified scale.  The vehicle will be titled as a current year vehicle as it was titled.  In other words if you build a 1930 hot rod it will be titled a 2012, or current year vehicle.  Being a new vehicle it must also have ALL the emissions gear required for the year of the engine if it's 1975 or newer! CATS, O2 sensors, canister, etc, etc. If the engine is 1974 or older, it doesn't require emissions testing and all you have to do is take it to the Emissions HQ in Albuquerque and obtain an emissions exemption certificate.   
  
 
You can also go to a "Title specialist" licensed with the state to get the title for you, for a price.  It involves them advertising the vehicle with a lien for a certain amount of time.  If nobody claims it you get a title for it.  This route is the most expensive but you don't have to do any legwork.
 
You can also go to a "Title specialist" licensed with the state to get the title for you, for a price.  It involves them advertising the vehicle with a lien for a certain amount of time.  If nobody claims it you get a title for it.  This route is the most expensive but you don't have to do any legwork.
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This was taken from New Mexico's Motor Vehicle Division website (http://www.mvd.newmexico.gov/Manuals/Pages/Vehicles%209A.htm) (For others rebuilt kits, see: http://www.mvd.newmexico.gov/Manuals/Pages/Vehicles%209B.htm, and http://www.mvd.newmexico.gov/Manuals/Pages/Vehicles%209C.htm)
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Chapter 9, Section A:
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Reconstructed, Rebuilt or Homemade/Shop-Built Vehicles
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Revised September 8, 2008
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________________________________________
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Reconstructed, rebuilt, homemade or shop-built vehicles may be titled if the applicant has all the required documents and provided that the vehicle conforms to all vehicle equipment safety standards applicable to the particular vehicle.
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Requirements
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1. Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin (MCO) or Certificate of Title
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Required only for a factory chassis. Does not apply if the chassis is homemade/“shop built”.
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2. Invoices and Bills of Sale
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Must be provided for all parts purchased to build the vehicle.
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3. Affirmation for Specially Constructed or Reconstructed Vehicle
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The "Affirmation for Specially Constructed or Reconstructed Vehicle" form (MVD-10015), must be completed and signed by the applicant attesting to the fact that the vehicle has been constructed or reconstructed from a factory or homemade/“shop built” chassis. The affirmation also indicates whether the vehicle was previously titled or registered in another state.
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4. Vehicle Equipment Affirmation
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The "Vehicle Equipment Affirmation" form (MVD-10053), must be completed and signed by the applicant. Review the document to be sure that the applicant has checked off all equipment required for the type of vehicle being registered. Assembled vehicles must comply with federal standards for highway use (this is the owner's responsibility). If the applicant tells you that some of the equipment is still missing or not working, DO NOT process the transaction.
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5. Weight Certificate
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Must be provided to accurately assess registration fees (exept for motorcycles and off-highway vehicles).
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6. Affidavit of VIN
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Required for each different VIN that appears on the vehicle's factory chassis, cab and/or engine.
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7. NCIC check
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If there are different VINs on the factory chassis, cab and/or engine, an NCIC check is required on each VIN.
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8. New Mexico Assigned VIN
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For home-made trailers and other vehicles that require a secondary number, a New Mexico Assigned VIN must be affixed to the vehicle by a Motor Vehicle Division employee or a certified Law Enforcement Inspector.
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When preparing to affix the New Mexico Assigned VIN plate to vehicle, if the vehicle obviously does not comply with vehicle equipment standards, do not attach the plate. Instead, VOID the transaction.
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Factory-Made Chassis Determines Year Model
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On vehicles that are reconstructed, the chassis (when the chassis, parts and equipment, including the frame, are standard factory equipment) will determine the year model of a vehicle. Enter the VIN from the title of the chassis as the primary number and a New Mexico Assigned VIN as a secondary vehicle identification number. The vehicle must be identified as "REBUILT" in the "brand" field. The Title Application (all copies) must be stamped with the "REBUILT" brand.
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Shop-Built Chassis Determines Year Model
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If the vehicle, including the chassis and/or body, is built from scrap metal, “shop-built” parts or parts from other vehicles, the year in which the vehicle is built will determine the year model. The vehicle make will be "HOMEMADE," and the constructed vehicle must comply with all current safety requirements for highway operation. Assign a New Mexico Assigned VIN as the primary vehicle identification number.
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9. Fees
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Normal fees apply. The excise tax will be based on the purchase price of the partially dismantled vehicle, other parts purchased, plus labor involved in rebuilding the vehicle.
  
 
===New York===
 
===New York===
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In order to title the vehicle the owner should take the original title for the vehicle along with a completed form MV2855 to the local DMV office where they will also fill out form MV-1 which is the standard "Title/License Plate Application".
 
In order to title the vehicle the owner should take the original title for the vehicle along with a completed form MV2855 to the local DMV office where they will also fill out form MV-1 which is the standard "Title/License Plate Application".
  
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Street Modified vehicles qualify for either a normal license plate (personalized plates, etc.) or a Hobbyist Plate.  The advantage of a hobby plate is that you pay a one time fee, approximately $160, but then the plate is good for your lifetime.  It can also be transferred to another car should you sell the existing car and purchase another which also qualifies for the Hobby plate.  If you purchase additional qualified vehicles, the plate cost for each is reduced to $110.  
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Street Modified vehicles qualify for either a normal license plate (personalized plates, etc.) or a Hobbyist Plate.  The advantage of a hobby plate is that you pay a one time fee, approximately $200, but then the plate is good for your lifetime.  It can also be transferred to another car should you sell the existing car and purchase another which also qualifies for the Hobby plate.  If you purchase additional qualified vehicles, the plate cost for each is reduced to $150.  
  
 
In the event the owner does not have a title (but the vehicle has an original VIN) you must apply for a replacement title using state form MV-1.  The WDOT may require that the VIN be inspected and certified by a law enforcement officer (state or local police) and then their certification forwarded to the WDOT.
 
In the event the owner does not have a title (but the vehicle has an original VIN) you must apply for a replacement title using state form MV-1.  The WDOT may require that the VIN be inspected and certified by a law enforcement officer (state or local police) and then their certification forwarded to the WDOT.
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===Norway emissions requirements===
 
===Norway emissions requirements===
  
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==UK==
 
  
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==Commercial titling services==
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"Approving a modified car for street use in Norway is a difficult battle, but can be done. The rules are numerous and very complicated, and therefore not really fit for a Wiki article. Also I am not a lawyer and do not know them all in detail They can be viewed online, but only in Norwegian, as far as I know.
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Need details on this. How do they work? How do their differ state-to-state or region-to-region? Legality? Cost?
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"The main thing to do is to immediately (before doing work on the car) contact the authorities (local traffic station) and ask what kind of testing and documentation they require for the modification you are thinking of. Some things just can not be done if you want the car registered. It pays off to have done your homework and read up on the basics so that you can ask intelligent questions. Also this will ensure that you get to talk to someone knowledgable, not just a random person at the front desk with no knowledge at all. This is important as the front-desk-guy's "standard answers" may not be correct for your vehicle, especially if it is an older car.
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"There are major differences in laws for cars registered before and after 1970, and even larger differences if it's earlier than 1942. There are also smaller differences from year to year. This is because laws in Norway by consitution can not be retroactive, so as new laws (including the major revisions to vehicle laws in 1942 and 1970) are added, these do not affect cars already registred. Note that it's the 1st registration date of the vehicle in Norway and not the manufacturing date (or registration date in another country) that counts. If the car was imported this will probably affect whether or not it can be modified (ask local traffic station for details).
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"Now, the general idea in Norway - at least for cars registered after 1970 - is that any modifications must be approved by manufacturer or a "competent independent laboratory", which in practice is TÜV in Germany. There might be some leeway depending on which person you talk to when approving your car. Some traffic stations are very rigid and will require documents on everything, while others will judge simpler modifications themselves.
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"I have only personally dealt with cars from 1970 and later, but generally I can confirm that it gets significantly easier the older the car is (fewer rules to abide by). Do not assume that "anything goes" even if the car is older, though.
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"For American cars I must stress that one contacts AMCAR, a large organization in Norway working for American car enthusiasts on both political and technical issues. They will know what needs to be done, and have tons of documents and information in their databases. The local traffic stations will often be helpful as well, if you are open about your intentions and involve them in the planning process.
  
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Examples:
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"I would like to add that there will soon be a new set of laws specifically aimed at hotrods/kitcars, etc. (when the modifications are considering up-building of cars/building of a new car, rather than just a modification). These are not ready yet, but should be out in 2013, according to AMCAR."
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*[http://getnewtitle.com GetNewTitle.com]
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*[http://www.its-titles.com/ International Title Service]
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*[http://broadwaytitle.com/ Broadway Title Company]
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{{youcanedit}}
 
  
 
[[Category:General hotrodding]]
 
[[Category:General hotrodding]]
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[[Category:Good articles]]
 
 
[[Category:Identification and decoding]]
 
[[Category:Identification and decoding]]

Latest revision as of 18:11, 8 December 2023

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