Basic modifications for newbies

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In this exercise, I am suggesting that you install the piston stop tool with the Factory TDC notch on the damper ring to the right of, or past the timing pointer so that you can turn the crank clockwise through the whole operation. If you install the stop before the damper ring notch is at  TDC (with the damper ring notch to the left of the pointer) and then turn the crank backwards (counterclockwise) until the piston comes up against the stop again, you may loosen the bolt in the crank that retains the harmonic damper. Then you have to get your buddy to crawl under and hold a large flat-blade screwdriver into the flexplate/flywheel ring gear teeth to keep the motor from turning while you tighten the bolt back. Far better to just turn the crank clockwise only (keeping the bolt tight) and sidestep a problem before it occurs. Been there, done that.
 
In this exercise, I am suggesting that you install the piston stop tool with the Factory TDC notch on the damper ring to the right of, or past the timing pointer so that you can turn the crank clockwise through the whole operation. If you install the stop before the damper ring notch is at  TDC (with the damper ring notch to the left of the pointer) and then turn the crank backwards (counterclockwise) until the piston comes up against the stop again, you may loosen the bolt in the crank that retains the harmonic damper. Then you have to get your buddy to crawl under and hold a large flat-blade screwdriver into the flexplate/flywheel ring gear teeth to keep the motor from turning while you tighten the bolt back. Far better to just turn the crank clockwise only (keeping the bolt tight) and sidestep a problem before it occurs. Been there, done that.
  
Before starting this operation, measure the outside diameter of the damper and buy a timing tape which matches the diameter of the damper. Also buy a piston stop tool.
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Before starting this operation, measure the outside diameter of the damper and buy a timing tape which matches the diameter of the damper. Also buy a piston stop tool. Purchasing a tool that has a hole drilled through the center of the probe will allow pressure or vacuum to escape through the hole with the piston moving up and down in the bore with the rocker arms disabled (valves on their seats) and will make the job easier.  
 
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&y=5&N=+115&Ntt=timing+tape&x=22
 
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&y=5&N=+115&Ntt=timing+tape&x=22
 
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=piston+stop+tool&x=30&y=5&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=700+115
 
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=piston+stop+tool&x=30&y=5&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=700+115
  Purchasing a tool that has a hole drilled through the center of the probe will allow pressure or vacuum to escape when the piston is moving in the bore with the rockers disabled (valves on seat) and will make the job easier.
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You'll need to get everything out of the way so you can work on the damper ring.(the damper is made up of two metal parts which are joined together with an elastomeric material). The ring has a notch cut in it which indicates top dead center when aligned with the pointer on the front cover or block of the motor. Remove the fan, belts, shroud and water pump pulley. You may have to remove the water pump to gain full access to the damper ring and do the measuring needed for this operation. This would be a good time to replace the pump anyway. Pumps and gaskets are not that pricey. Whether or not you replace it, removing it and installing a Flow Kooler impeller plate might be a good move. Summit lists them only for a Mopar, but they wouldn't be that hard to fabricate from sheet metal and install with rivets on a stamped steel impeller.  
 
You'll need to get everything out of the way so you can work on the damper ring.(the damper is made up of two metal parts which are joined together with an elastomeric material). The ring has a notch cut in it which indicates top dead center when aligned with the pointer on the front cover or block of the motor. Remove the fan, belts, shroud and water pump pulley. You may have to remove the water pump to gain full access to the damper ring and do the measuring needed for this operation. This would be a good time to replace the pump anyway. Pumps and gaskets are not that pricey. Whether or not you replace it, removing it and installing a Flow Kooler impeller plate might be a good move. Summit lists them only for a Mopar, but they wouldn't be that hard to fabricate from sheet metal and install with rivets on a stamped steel impeller.  
 
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BRA%2D4375%2D07&autoview=sku
 
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BRA%2D4375%2D07&autoview=sku

Revision as of 15:11, 7 August 2007

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