Basic modifications for newbies

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'''There are numerous sources of information to assist the untrained individual in the rebuilding or repairing of specific components of a vehicle, but there needs to be a place where he/she can learn what to do and what not to do in the modification of their vehicle(s). This article will attempt to fill in the blank spaces in their understanding concerning these modifications.
 
'''There are numerous sources of information to assist the untrained individual in the rebuilding or repairing of specific components of a vehicle, but there needs to be a place where he/she can learn what to do and what not to do in the modification of their vehicle(s). This article will attempt to fill in the blank spaces in their understanding concerning these modifications.
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VERIFYING TOP DEAD CENTER AT THE DAMPER/POINTER WITH THE MOTOR ASSEMBLED.
 
VERIFYING TOP DEAD CENTER AT THE DAMPER/POINTER WITH THE MOTOR ASSEMBLED.
  
First off, the large round hub on the front of the crankshaft is called a harmonic damper by some and a harmonic balancer by others. If it is bolted to the crank of a 350 Chevy that is internally balanced, then it serves only the function of being a harmonic damper, dampening vibrations  nufacturer you have no idea if the TDC notch on the ring matches the timing pointer attached to the block or front cover, even if the outer ring has not slipped at all. There are a multitude of different dampers and three different timing pointer locations on a Chevy. I don't know about other brands. Chevies use 12:00 noon, 2:00 O'Clock and 2:30 O'Clock and if anyone has had the motor apart, you don't know if they used the original damper and timing pointer or other swap meet parts when they went back together with the motor.    
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First off, the large round hub on the front of the crankshaft is called a harmonic damper by some and a harmonic balancer by others. If it is bolted to the crank of a 350 Chevy that is internally balanced, then it serves only the function of being a harmonic damper, dampening vibrations  nufacturer you have no idea if the TDC notch on the ring matches the timing pointer attached to the block or front cover, even if the outer ring has not slipped at all. There are a multitude of different dampers and three different timing pointer locations on a Chevy. I don't know about other brands. Chevies use 12:00 noon, 2:00 O'Clock and 2:30 O'Clock and if anyone has had the motor apart, you don't know if they used the original damper and timing pointer or other swap meet parts when they went back together with the motor. The whole reason for doing this operation in the first place is to be able to time the motor with a timing light and know, absolutely, that the timing is correct. The elastomeric material that connects the outer ring of the harmonic damper to the inner hub which presses onto the snout of the crankshaft begins to break down in time due to ozone in the atmosphere and oil and fuel which may find its way onto the material. When this happens, the outer ring may slip in relation to the inner hub, rendering any attempt to time the motor with a timing light futile and a waste of time. Even though this operation will bring the timing marks back to correct for the time being, there is no guarantee that the ring will not slip further after a while. If you want to bulletproof the operation, then start with a new or rebuilt damper and use the correct timing pointer for that damper. A company called Damper Doctors will rebuild your damper with new elastomeric material pressed between the ring and hub at tremendous pressure. You can also buy the rebuilt dampers on an exchange basis or keep your junk damper and buy theirs outright.
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http://members.aol.com/damperdoc/   
  
 
In this exercise, I am suggesting that you install the piston stop tool with the Factory TDC notch on the damper ring to the right of, or past the timing pointer so that you can turn the crank clockwise through the whole operation. If you install the stop before you are to TDC and then turn the crank backwards until the piston comes up against the stop again (counterclockwise), you may  loosen the bolt in the crank that retains the harmonic damper. Then you have to get your buddy to crawl under and hold a large flat-blade screwdriver into the ring gear teeth to keep the motor from turning while you tighten the bolt back. Far better to just turn the crank clockwise only (keeping the bolt tight) and sidestep a problem before it occurs. Been there, done that.
 
In this exercise, I am suggesting that you install the piston stop tool with the Factory TDC notch on the damper ring to the right of, or past the timing pointer so that you can turn the crank clockwise through the whole operation. If you install the stop before you are to TDC and then turn the crank backwards until the piston comes up against the stop again (counterclockwise), you may  loosen the bolt in the crank that retains the harmonic damper. Then you have to get your buddy to crawl under and hold a large flat-blade screwdriver into the ring gear teeth to keep the motor from turning while you tighten the bolt back. Far better to just turn the crank clockwise only (keeping the bolt tight) and sidestep a problem before it occurs. Been there, done that.

Revision as of 17:48, 5 August 2007

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