How to rebuild an engine
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
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| − | + | ==Requirements== | |
| − | == Requirements | + | |
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| + | ===Tools=== | ||
You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. | You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. | ||
| − | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench | + | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench and a cam bearing installing tool (or have the machine shop install the cam bearings). Also, you may need a ridge reamer, a ring groove cleaner (a piece of a broken ring can be carefully used for this), a ring expander, a ring trimmer, a ring compressor, and a good cylinder hone. If cylinder head work is going to be done, a spring compressor will be needed. |
Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine or if this is going to become a routine thing. You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. An engine hoist is also a good addition if you plan on pulling and installing many engines. | Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine or if this is going to become a routine thing. You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. An engine hoist is also a good addition if you plan on pulling and installing many engines. | ||
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===Purchasing tools=== | ===Purchasing tools=== | ||
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In order to minimize the risk of sending dust up into the air and settling on work area surfaces, a floor sweeping compound, damp saw dust or damp cloth should be used. If the space is small and/or enclosed, an air filtration system may also provide aid in minimizing the presence of particulate matter. | In order to minimize the risk of sending dust up into the air and settling on work area surfaces, a floor sweeping compound, damp saw dust or damp cloth should be used. If the space is small and/or enclosed, an air filtration system may also provide aid in minimizing the presence of particulate matter. | ||
| − | == Skill level == | + | ==Skill level== |
The amount of skill necessary to rebuild an engine depends on what engine you are rebuilding and just how much of the work you plan on doing yourself. If you are rebuilding a standard pushrod V8 such as the small block Chevy with all the machine work being performed by a reputable shop, then the skills needed are basically nothing more than being good with your hands, the ability to take and read measurements, use tools properly, the patience to do things right the first time and the ability to read, understand, and follow a comprehensive manual on the subject. If you don't understand or are not certain of a procedure, ask an experienced professional! | The amount of skill necessary to rebuild an engine depends on what engine you are rebuilding and just how much of the work you plan on doing yourself. If you are rebuilding a standard pushrod V8 such as the small block Chevy with all the machine work being performed by a reputable shop, then the skills needed are basically nothing more than being good with your hands, the ability to take and read measurements, use tools properly, the patience to do things right the first time and the ability to read, understand, and follow a comprehensive manual on the subject. If you don't understand or are not certain of a procedure, ask an experienced professional! | ||
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Today there is much information available on the internet. Be careful! Not all information is correct! Verify any information with several professional and/or reliable sources. | Today there is much information available on the internet. Be careful! Not all information is correct! Verify any information with several professional and/or reliable sources. | ||
| − | == Deciding on an engine == | + | ==Deciding on an engine== |
Factors in deciding on an engine/build are as follows: | Factors in deciding on an engine/build are as follows: | ||
*Need | *Need | ||
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A lot of rodders prefer their horsepower coming from big displacement high output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost considerably more than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for wild engines include the big three domestic car producers: GM, Ford, and MOPAR. | A lot of rodders prefer their horsepower coming from big displacement high output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost considerably more than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for wild engines include the big three domestic car producers: GM, Ford, and MOPAR. | ||
| − | The 454 BBC is often considered the ultimate ''readily available'' hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi, Chevy W-motor, Pontiac, AMC and the Boss 429 Ford have all had a resurgence since Edelbrock (and in some cases other manufacturers) have made | + | The 454 BBC is often considered the ultimate ''readily available'' hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi, Chevy W-motor, Pontiac, AMC and the Boss 429 Ford have all had a resurgence since Edelbrock (and in some cases other manufacturers) have made aluminum cylinder heads and in some cases new aftermarket blocks available, as well as all the other necessary parts and pieces. |
==Locating an engine to rebuild== | ==Locating an engine to rebuild== | ||
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This might work well if you live in a more rural area where pickings in the classified ads are slim. Talk with anyone who gets out into the boonies on a regular basis and offer them a reward for information leading to an abandoned car or truck. Candidates would include police officers, letter carriers, rural newspaper delivery persons, repairmen who work on high-voltage lines, water/electric meter readers, surveyors and so forth. Place a wanted poster in the local hunting or fishing supply store to reach sportsmen. | This might work well if you live in a more rural area where pickings in the classified ads are slim. Talk with anyone who gets out into the boonies on a regular basis and offer them a reward for information leading to an abandoned car or truck. Candidates would include police officers, letter carriers, rural newspaper delivery persons, repairmen who work on high-voltage lines, water/electric meter readers, surveyors and so forth. Place a wanted poster in the local hunting or fishing supply store to reach sportsmen. | ||
| − | + | ===Removal=== | |
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| − | === Removal === | + | |
How to safely and properly pull an engine. | How to safely and properly pull an engine. | ||
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{{Note1}}If you raise the vehicle, USE JACK STANDS SAFELY POSITIONED! For more safety tips, see: '''[[Health and safety in the shop or garage]]'''. | {{Note1}}If you raise the vehicle, USE JACK STANDS SAFELY POSITIONED! For more safety tips, see: '''[[Health and safety in the shop or garage]]'''. | ||
| − | === Transportation === | + | ===Transportation=== |
'''How to ship an engine through a third-party shipping service. And, how to safely load, secure, transport, and unload an engine.''' | '''How to ship an engine through a third-party shipping service. And, how to safely load, secure, transport, and unload an engine.''' | ||
An engine, because of the oil and gasoline residue it holds, is considered hazardous material in the United States and comes under special requirements for shipping documentation. If you do not already know how to do this, it isn't worth your while for one engine. Get somebody who does this regularly (maybe a friendly auto dealer or salvage yard) to do it for you. If you are going to transport the engine/transmission in your own truck, get one or two car tires to sit the item(s) on. It's non-skid, protects the item(s) being transported and allows stabilization when the item(s) are strapped down. | An engine, because of the oil and gasoline residue it holds, is considered hazardous material in the United States and comes under special requirements for shipping documentation. If you do not already know how to do this, it isn't worth your while for one engine. Get somebody who does this regularly (maybe a friendly auto dealer or salvage yard) to do it for you. If you are going to transport the engine/transmission in your own truck, get one or two car tires to sit the item(s) on. It's non-skid, protects the item(s) being transported and allows stabilization when the item(s) are strapped down. | ||
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===Prior to disassembling=== | ===Prior to disassembling=== | ||
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It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags. Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands. If at all possible, roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom. As a suggestion, revise to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles. Then, when you are putting things back together, you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes. | It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags. Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands. If at all possible, roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom. As a suggestion, revise to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles. Then, when you are putting things back together, you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes. | ||
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| + | ==Disassembly== | ||
| + | Disassembly is usually broken down into two parts. One is removal of external parts and accessories and the other is the actual disassembling of the engine block and its internal parts. | ||
===External parts and accessories=== | ===External parts and accessories=== | ||
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Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and possible reuse. | Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and possible reuse. | ||
| − | Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of | + | Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of their location. |
Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to leverage the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. | Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to leverage the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. | ||
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Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before loosening the rod caps, use an engraving tool to ID the rods and caps with the cylinder number they go to. This is preferred to using a number set or center punch, but if done carefully this is still OK to do. Be sure to use only as much force as needed to get a legible number or marking and no more. | Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before loosening the rod caps, use an engraving tool to ID the rods and caps with the cylinder number they go to. This is preferred to using a number set or center punch, but if done carefully this is still OK to do. Be sure to use only as much force as needed to get a legible number or marking and no more. | ||
| − | Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston | + | Mark the caps in the same order as the firing order with a vibratory etcher. If you use a center punch or numbebered punch set, use a light touch so as to not distort anything. |
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| + | Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston, then return the cap to that rod. Then remove the rest of the rods. | ||
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| + | Pull the flywheel or flex plate. After marking the main caps for location if needed (some will be marked for position from the factory), undo the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, and with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse than damaging a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and coat the engine bores, etc. with ATF, etc. to keep rust to a minimum. | ||
Depending on your budget, experience, and preferences, take block and crank to the machine shop for inspection for cracks/defects and for measurements of the bores, main saddles and decks, or inspect and mic the engine yourself using the proper specs. Reasonable care should be taken when moving the block and crank so that they do not become damaged in transportation. If moving them over a long distance it may be better to put the crank back in the engine and bolt it in for the ride, also put the pan on for extra protection. Heads should be secured safely. | Depending on your budget, experience, and preferences, take block and crank to the machine shop for inspection for cracks/defects and for measurements of the bores, main saddles and decks, or inspect and mic the engine yourself using the proper specs. Reasonable care should be taken when moving the block and crank so that they do not become damaged in transportation. If moving them over a long distance it may be better to put the crank back in the engine and bolt it in for the ride, also put the pan on for extra protection. Heads should be secured safely. | ||
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#Don't forget to have new cam bearings installed if the hot tank ruined them or if they were too worn to reuse. | #Don't forget to have new cam bearings installed if the hot tank ruined them or if they were too worn to reuse. | ||
| − | ==== What to expect to pay for machining work ==== | + | ====What to expect to pay for machining work==== |
It really varies by where you get the work done and what you actually get done. An average machine shop charges around $90.00 per hour (ca. 2012). A simple head grinding could take as little as a half hour whereas a major bore and hone could take a few hours. | It really varies by where you get the work done and what you actually get done. An average machine shop charges around $90.00 per hour (ca. 2012). A simple head grinding could take as little as a half hour whereas a major bore and hone could take a few hours. | ||
| − | === How to select a machine shop === | + | ===How to select a machine shop=== |
Cleanliness, experience, referral from trusted sources, knowledge, etc. Remember, anyone can purchase the machinery and equipment. Good equipment is necessary, but so is experience. No two shops do things the same way. Talk to the shop owner/manager and find one that you are comfortable with. Big names don't always assure top quality. | Cleanliness, experience, referral from trusted sources, knowledge, etc. Remember, anyone can purchase the machinery and equipment. Good equipment is necessary, but so is experience. No two shops do things the same way. Talk to the shop owner/manager and find one that you are comfortable with. Big names don't always assure top quality. | ||
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Also, some machine shops specialize in certain engines (such as the AMC V8 if you want the "oil line mod" done), and it is advisable to seek out a shop that specializes in the engine you're rebuilding. Be sure while interviewing the machine shop to ask what engines they know a lot about. Don't ask "Do you know a lot about this engine?", as they can simply reply "yes". Ask them "What engines are you guys familiar with?" | Also, some machine shops specialize in certain engines (such as the AMC V8 if you want the "oil line mod" done), and it is advisable to seek out a shop that specializes in the engine you're rebuilding. Be sure while interviewing the machine shop to ask what engines they know a lot about. Don't ask "Do you know a lot about this engine?", as they can simply reply "yes". Ask them "What engines are you guys familiar with?" | ||
| − | == | + | ==Reassembly== |
*Always chase your threads with a thread chaser (not a tap) on all threaded holes, especially where torque values are critical, like head bolts holes, intake and exhaust holes, etc. | *Always chase your threads with a thread chaser (not a tap) on all threaded holes, especially where torque values are critical, like head bolts holes, intake and exhaust holes, etc. | ||
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*Clean all bolt threads thoroughly: A wire wheel on a grinder works well for this. | *Clean all bolt threads thoroughly: A wire wheel on a grinder works well for this. | ||
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*Clean and oil threads for a good torque reading but be sure that this is either what your manual instructs or is common practice for your engine/build. Take special care with soft metals like aluminum, as you may do irreparable damage. | *Clean and oil threads for a good torque reading but be sure that this is either what your manual instructs or is common practice for your engine/build. Take special care with soft metals like aluminum, as you may do irreparable damage. | ||
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*Be sure to check and verify before reusing existing head bolts as some engines use "TTY" (torque to yield) fasteners that should not be reused; new fasteners are required. | *Be sure to check and verify before reusing existing head bolts as some engines use "TTY" (torque to yield) fasteners that should not be reused; new fasteners are required. | ||
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*Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads when using or replacing stainless steel fasteners, or when fasteners are threaded into aluminum. | *Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads when using or replacing stainless steel fasteners, or when fasteners are threaded into aluminum. | ||
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*Always check the unit system and grade of replacement fasteners. Using metric instead of SAE threads, for example, is not in any way acceptable, nor is using ungraded or the wrong grade fasteners. Use caution if using a different fastener strength grade (i.e. using a Grade 8 instead of a Grade 5 fastener); "stronger" isn't necessarily "better". Always use the fastener designated appropriate for your application. Using the wrong fastener could compromise the engine, its parts and/or put one at risk. In some instances, using too "strong" of a fastener may do more harm than good because they were intended to break before serious engine damage could occur. | *Always check the unit system and grade of replacement fasteners. Using metric instead of SAE threads, for example, is not in any way acceptable, nor is using ungraded or the wrong grade fasteners. Use caution if using a different fastener strength grade (i.e. using a Grade 8 instead of a Grade 5 fastener); "stronger" isn't necessarily "better". Always use the fastener designated appropriate for your application. Using the wrong fastener could compromise the engine, its parts and/or put one at risk. In some instances, using too "strong" of a fastener may do more harm than good because they were intended to break before serious engine damage could occur. | ||
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Even if the rods aren't numbered you can still orientate them correctly for what side they go on. This can be done several ways: | Even if the rods aren't numbered you can still orientate them correctly for what side they go on. This can be done several ways: | ||
*If the pistons are on the rods, they'll have an arrow or notch. This faces forward. | *If the pistons are on the rods, they'll have an arrow or notch. This faces forward. | ||
| − | *If you install a rod bearing into the rod and cap, you'll see that it is positioned with one side | + | *If you install a rod bearing into the rod and cap, you'll see that it is positioned with one side further away from the face of the rod/cap. That side faces the crank cheek. |
| + | *Usually the larger chamfer also faces the crank cheek; smaller chamfer faces the other rod on that journal.<br> | ||
| + | {{Note1}}There are exceptions to this, unrelated to any specific make or size of engine- it happens randomly. There may be chamfers facing both ways in the same engine. | ||
*Numbers face the pan rail. | *Numbers face the pan rail. | ||
| − | {{Warning}}This has to be correct or severe | + | ====Bearing tangs==== |
| + | Different engines have the rod and cap bearing tangs facing differently, so don't think they're always one way or the other for all engines. | ||
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| + | On SBC and BBC, the bearing tang notch in the rod big end faces the pan rail of the engine. | ||
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| + | Other engines like the Pontiac and small block Ford have the bearing tangs oriented to the '''inside'''. | ||
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| + | {{Warning}}This has to be correct or severe engine damage can occur. | ||
| − | == Testing and break-in == | + | ==Testing and break-in== |
| − | See [[How to prep and start a rebuilt engine]]. | + | {{!}}'''See:''' |
| + | *'''[[How to prep and start a rebuilt engine]]''' | ||
| + | *'''[[Camshaft install tips and tricks]]'''. | ||
| − | Oil formulations are being changed due to pressure from the | + | Oil formulations are being changed mainly due to pressure from the EPA and secondarily from the factories switching to roller lifters. Zinc and phosphorus tend to coat O2 sensors and plug catalytic converters resulting in warranty claims as well as contributing to dirty exhaust emissions, so they are being eliminated from motor oils as we speak. These elements were used in the oil to provide extreme pressure lubrication and protection from galling on heavily loaded engine components such as the cam lobe/lifter crown interface. |
| − | The loss of those high pressure lubricant supplements from the motor oil now available had less impact on newer engines because of the change to roller cams. With them, there is no special procedure for break-in. You just oil the lifters, drop them in and no other special break-in procedures are needed for the cam and lifters. Obviously the rings and other new components will still require a break in period, but with a roller cam the biggest problem associated with breaking in a rebuilt engine | + | The loss of those high pressure lubricant supplements from the motor oil now available had less impact on newer engines because of the change to roller cams. With them, there is no special procedure for break-in. You just oil the lifters, drop them in and no other special break-in procedures are needed for the cam and lifters. Obviously the rings and other new components will still require a break in period, but with a roller cam the biggest problem associated with breaking in a rebuilt engine- flat tappet cam lobe/lifter failure- is a thing of the past. Be advised though, that there could be a problem with mechanical roller camshafts in a street motor. In many cases the best valve train for a street motor would begin with a hydraulic roller cam. Most hydraulic roller cams will have a rev limit of around 6,000 to 6,200 RPM due to the weight of the components, the design of the hydraulic lifter and the cam lobe design. If a higher powerband is wanted or needed, you've moved out of the street engine realm and are now into race engine territory, and should be looking into a solid roller valve train. |
This is similar to how the current ignition systems came to be. Kettering invented the points-type ignition system early in the last century and it endured for some 70 years. When it came time to clean up the environment, the OEM's switched to electronic ignition and we never looked back. Points-type ignitions have been replaced by HEI-type ignition systems. Now we have moved to solid state ignition with a coil for each cylinder, controlled by computers and rare earth spark plug electrodes to provide good performance and acceptable emissions levels for as much as 100K-plus miles before servicing is required. Same with carburetors. Electronic fuel injection is light years ahead of the old technology, and it contributes to vastly improved fuel mileage and much cleaner emissions. | This is similar to how the current ignition systems came to be. Kettering invented the points-type ignition system early in the last century and it endured for some 70 years. When it came time to clean up the environment, the OEM's switched to electronic ignition and we never looked back. Points-type ignitions have been replaced by HEI-type ignition systems. Now we have moved to solid state ignition with a coil for each cylinder, controlled by computers and rare earth spark plug electrodes to provide good performance and acceptable emissions levels for as much as 100K-plus miles before servicing is required. Same with carburetors. Electronic fuel injection is light years ahead of the old technology, and it contributes to vastly improved fuel mileage and much cleaner emissions. | ||
| − | For those who insist on using flat tappet cams (more than likely due to the cost of roller units, particularly if building a pre | + | For those who insist on using flat tappet cams (more than likely due to the cost of roller units, particularly if building a pre roller cam type of block), here is the best way to do it: |
1. Start with a matched and coordinated set of parts. Use the lifters and spring specs recommended by the cam grinder for your particular application and rpm limit. There is no point in using more valve spring pressure than needed, especially in a flat tappet street motor. To do so is asking for problems. Always consult with your favorite cam grinder for cam/lifter/spring recommendations for your particular application. Never rely solely on the recommendation of gearheads on auto forums. It's OK to ask and get general recommendations and suggestions from such sources, but before you lay down your hard-earned money, consult with the manufacturer's tech guy. He will want to know all the particulars of your combination including exact static compression ratio, so have all this written down so you can answer his questions intelligently. | 1. Start with a matched and coordinated set of parts. Use the lifters and spring specs recommended by the cam grinder for your particular application and rpm limit. There is no point in using more valve spring pressure than needed, especially in a flat tappet street motor. To do so is asking for problems. Always consult with your favorite cam grinder for cam/lifter/spring recommendations for your particular application. Never rely solely on the recommendation of gearheads on auto forums. It's OK to ask and get general recommendations and suggestions from such sources, but before you lay down your hard-earned money, consult with the manufacturer's tech guy. He will want to know all the particulars of your combination including exact static compression ratio, so have all this written down so you can answer his questions intelligently. | ||
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2. You might want to research using special lifters or treatments that help prevent cam lobe/lifter failure. Some options are: | 2. You might want to research using special lifters or treatments that help prevent cam lobe/lifter failure. Some options are: | ||
*Hard-faced lifters with a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing. | *Hard-faced lifters with a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing. | ||
| − | *Comp Cams has an optional nitriding process that can be applied to any of their cams | + | *Comp Cams has an optional nitriding process that can be applied to any of their cams for around $100 over he cost of the cam. |
*[http://www.4secondsflat.com/Composite%20lifters.htm SM Composite lifters], ~$700/set. | *[http://www.4secondsflat.com/Composite%20lifters.htm SM Composite lifters], ~$700/set. | ||
*[http://www.4secondsflat.com/SM%20Tool%20Steel%20Lifters.htm SM Tool Steel lifters], ~$485-$625. | *[http://www.4secondsflat.com/SM%20Tool%20Steel%20Lifters.htm SM Tool Steel lifters], ~$485-$625. | ||
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9. Pre-oil the motor with a drill motor and oil pump primer tool such as [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/23640/10002/-1?parentProductId=754806 this one from Jegs]. Put a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt and rotate the motor through at least 2 full revolutions while priming. | 9. Pre-oil the motor with a drill motor and oil pump primer tool such as [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/23640/10002/-1?parentProductId=754806 this one from Jegs]. Put a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt and rotate the motor through at least 2 full revolutions while priming. | ||
| − | 10. At the end of | + | 10. At the end of the cam/lifter break-in period, change the oil and filter. <br> |
| + | {{Note1}}For more info on engine break in, see the links at the beginning of this section. | ||
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| + | ==Compression ratio calculators== | ||
| + | *[http://www.wheelspin.net/calc/calc2.html Static compression ratio] | ||
| + | *[http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php Wallace Racing DCR calculator] | ||
| + | *[http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html Kelly DCR calculator] | ||
| + | *[http://www.uempistons.com/calc.php?action=comp2 KB/Silvolite DCR calculator] | ||
| + | *[http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm RSR DCR calculator] | ||
| + | {{Note1}} Some dynamic compression rtatio calculators (like KBs) ask for an additional 15 degrees of duration be added to the IVC @ 0.050" lift point figure. This works OK on older, slower ramped cam lobes, but the faster lobe profiles may need to have 25 degrees or more added to be accurate. | ||
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| + | {{Note1}}If the intake valve closing (IVC) point isn't known, it can be calculated: | ||
| + | # Divide the intake duration by 2 | ||
| + | # Add the results to the lobe separation angle (LSA) | ||
| + | # Subtract any ground-in advance | ||
| + | # Subtract 180 | ||
| + | This result does not need to have any amount added to the IVC point, like the KB calculator calls for. | ||
==Related resources== | ==Related resources== | ||
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