Adjusting solid lifters

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==Adjusting the lash==
 
==Adjusting the lash==
{{Note1}}Expect the lash to change (often it will tighten) on a new cam and lifters (not a lot, but noticeable) until the valve train is bedded in together. Once this is done, you'll not be needing to adjust the lash very often, although you still need to occasionally check the lash. A good time to check the lash is at oil change intervals.
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{{Note1}}Expect the lash to change (often it will tighten) on a new cam and lifters (not a lot, but noticeable) until the valve train is bedded in together. Once this is done, you won't need to adjust the lash very often, although you still need to occasionally check it. A good time to check the lash is at oil change intervals or before competition.
  
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==Cold adjustment/first start up==
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Because all engines are different, be sure to use this as a guide only. Checking what '''''your''''' engine does is important because of the variables involved.
 
*In many cases the hot lash setting may be used for initial start-up unless the manufacturer's instructions say to do otherwise. If there's any question as to what cold lash to use for start up, refer to manufacturer's instructions.  
 
*In many cases the hot lash setting may be used for initial start-up unless the manufacturer's instructions say to do otherwise. If there's any question as to what cold lash to use for start up, refer to manufacturer's instructions.  
*After the engine is hot, the valves get adjusted to their correct hot lash setting. *Then after a '''complete''' cool-down (overnight is preferred), the lash is remeasured and recorded for future use when checking/setting the lash ''cold''. That will get it '''right''' as opposed to ''close''.  
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*After the engine is hot, the valves are to be adjusted to their correct hot lash setting.  
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*Then after a '''complete''' cool-down (overnight is good), the lash is remeasured and recorded for future use when checking/setting the lash ''cold''. That will get it '''right''' as opposed to ''close''.  
  
==Cold adjustment for first start up==
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===Manufacturer's recommendations for cold lash settings===
Because all engines are different, be sure to use this as a guide only. Checking what your engine does is important because of the variables involved.
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===Comp Cams===
 
===Comp Cams===
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Also see '''[[Adjusting solid lifters#Compensating for a Cold Engine when Adjusting Valve Lash|Info from Crane]]'''.
 
Also see '''[[Adjusting solid lifters#Compensating for a Cold Engine when Adjusting Valve Lash|Info from Crane]]'''.
 
===Iskederian===
 
  
 
===Lunati===
 
===Lunati===
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valve lash settings noted on the spec card are “HOT” settings, and will need to be verified with the engine at operating temperature.)
 
valve lash settings noted on the spec card are “HOT” settings, and will need to be verified with the engine at operating temperature.)
  
 
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==Tips==
 
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*On a SBC and most other V8s, you can cut the center out of an old valve cover to use when setting lash hot, engine running. It will keep most of the oil from splashing out. *Using feeler gauges bent at a 45 degree angle (you can bend them yourself) will often make adjustments easier.
On a SBC and most other V8s, you can cut the center out of an old valve cover to use when setting lash hot, engine running. It will keep most of the oil from splashing out. You would use 45 degree bent feelers (or bend them yourself), and if you use polylocs, using a valve adjusting tool like shown below can make things easier. A tool like that can even help when setting the lash cold because it's easier to get the same 'feel' from valve to valve.
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*If you use polylocs, using a valve adjusting tool like shown below can make things easier. A tool like that can even help when setting the lash cold because it's easier to get the same 'feel' from valve to valve.
  
 
[[File:Valve adjus tool.jpg]]
 
[[File:Valve adjus tool.jpg]]
  
 
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*A go/no-go feeler set is not expensive and will make ''checking'' the lash ''uber'' easy. Use a standard feeler gauge for adjustment, not the go/no-go feelers. The two sizes on one blade are usually 0.002" apart so the first, thinner section will fit but the thicker step shouldn't if the valve is in adjustment.
A go/no-go feeler set is not expensive and will make checking the lash ''uber'' easy. Use a standard feeler gauge for adjustment, not the go/no-go feelers.
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The two sizes on one blade are usually 0.002" apart, so the first, thinner section will fit but the thicker step shouldn't if the valve is in adjustment.
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[[File:Go-no go valve feeler.jpg]]
 
[[File:Go-no go valve feeler.jpg]]
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==Special instructions for Duntov 30-30 cam==
 
==Special instructions for Duntov 30-30 cam==
 
[[Media:30-30 cam adjust.pdf|Duntov and other Chevy solid cams]]
 
[[Media:30-30 cam adjust.pdf|Duntov and other Chevy solid cams]]
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==References==
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*[http://www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/145.pdf Comp Cams]
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*[http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/214e_.pdf Crane Cams]
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*[http://www.sportcompactonly.com/manuals/Brand/Earls/INST150.pdf Lunati]
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*[http://www.iskycams.com/ Iskenderian]
  
 
==Resources==
 
==Resources==

Revision as of 08:43, 28 December 2012

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