Editing Starter motors
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First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below). | First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below). | ||
− | Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes | + | Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons. |
==Starter noses== | ==Starter noses== | ||
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− | + | |[[File:Iron left al right starter nose.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Cast iron nose left, aluminum nose right. Note the difference in the depth of the two noses; only the cast iron nose can be used with a manual tranny bellhousing]] | |
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− | |[[File:Iron left al right starter nose.jpg|thumb| | + | |
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===Nose bolt hole sizes=== | ===Nose bolt hole sizes=== | ||
There are also two different OEM starter nose bolt hole sizes available. The holes in the nose where the bolts go are designed to fit either 3/8" bolts or metric bolts. 3/8" equates to approximately 9.5mm. If 3/8 bolts are used on a starter designed to use 10mm bolts, there will be extra play between the bolt and the bolt holes of the starter nose. This can allow the starter to move relative to the ring gear, causing the starter to grind along with causing wear to the starter gear and the flexplate/flywheel ring gear. Over time the wear (or movement if the amount of movement is great enough) can result in the starter gear no longer being able to engage the ring gear and the result is an engine that cannot be started. | There are also two different OEM starter nose bolt hole sizes available. The holes in the nose where the bolts go are designed to fit either 3/8" bolts or metric bolts. 3/8" equates to approximately 9.5mm. If 3/8 bolts are used on a starter designed to use 10mm bolts, there will be extra play between the bolt and the bolt holes of the starter nose. This can allow the starter to move relative to the ring gear, causing the starter to grind along with causing wear to the starter gear and the flexplate/flywheel ring gear. Over time the wear (or movement if the amount of movement is great enough) can result in the starter gear no longer being able to engage the ring gear and the result is an engine that cannot be started. | ||
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==What to do if the block is broken== | ==What to do if the block is broken== | ||
− | There is a fix for engine blocks that have unrepairable cracks or breaks where the starter mounts to the block. Shown below is an adaptor plate and spacer that can be used to mount the early type bellhousing mounted starter to a later block. It can save a block that would be otherwise either junk or requiring expensive and time consuming welding to fix. Ecklers | + | There is a fix for engine blocks that have unrepairable cracks or breaks where the starter mounts to the block. Shown below is an adaptor plate and spacer that can be used to mount the early type bellhousing mounted starter to a later block. It can save a block that would be otherwise either junk or requiring expensive and time consuming welding to fix. Ecklers also sells an adaptor plate similar to the one shown under p/n 19-68. |
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|[[File:Starter adaptor plate.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Adaptor (Danchuck p/n 10100) used to mount a bellhousing-mounted starter on a block-mounted starter block]] | |[[File:Starter adaptor plate.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Adaptor (Danchuck p/n 10100) used to mount a bellhousing-mounted starter on a block-mounted starter block]] | ||
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==Starter brace== | ==Starter brace== | ||
{| | {| | ||
− | |[[File:Sbc starter brace.jpg|thumb|330px|left|SBC starter brace | + | |[[File:Sbc starter brace.jpg|thumb|330px|left|SBC starter brace]] |
|[[File:Starter brace install.jpg|thumb|330px|left|Brace attaches to studded through bolt on starter and is bolted to the block]] | |[[File:Starter brace install.jpg|thumb|330px|left|Brace attaches to studded through bolt on starter and is bolted to the block]] | ||
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A brace like was originally used by the factory is needed to prevent the starter from flexing in use. The brace also saves the nose from being cracked or broken if the starter kicks back from over advanced ignition timing. | A brace like was originally used by the factory is needed to prevent the starter from flexing in use. The brace also saves the nose from being cracked or broken if the starter kicks back from over advanced ignition timing. | ||
− | The brace connects to the end of the starter opposite of the nose, using the studded through bolt to attach the slotted end of the brace to the starter. The other end of the brace attaches directly to a threaded boss on the engine block, just below where the block and head | + | The brace connects to the end of the starter opposite of the nose, using the studded through bolt to attach the slotted end of the brace to the starter. The other end of the brace attaches directly to a threaded boss on the engine block, just below where the block deck and head meet. |
==Fasteners== | ==Fasteners== | ||
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===Adjustment=== | ===Adjustment=== | ||
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When using shims you need to have 1/8" clearance, a 1/8" drill bit or allen wrench works well for this. | When using shims you need to have 1/8" clearance, a 1/8" drill bit or allen wrench works well for this. | ||
− | + | A noisy starter is because the gears are too close the use of shims reduced the noise by increasing the distance between the gears. | |
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==GM starter solenoid== | ==GM starter solenoid== | ||
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===Battery terminals=== | ===Battery terminals=== | ||
− | [[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left| | + | [[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left|Clamp-on replacement battery terminals are to be avoided!]]Do not be tempted to save money by using one (or more) of the cheap, clamp-on style battery cable terminals. Even if they are tight and look fine, all too often they will cause high resistance and can make it seem like the battery is bad, etc. If the terminal fails on a cable there are better terminals that may be used to replace them, or the entire cable can be replaced with a cable having a larger diameter and quality terminals already installed. |
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===Grounds=== | ===Grounds=== | ||
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*Block to firewall/chassis sheet metal | *Block to firewall/chassis sheet metal | ||
With this arrangement you are almost guaranteed a good ground, even if one fails. Keep in mind that the engine block is attached to rubber mounts. Some people will bolt the "battery to block" right to the starter bolt. | With this arrangement you are almost guaranteed a good ground, even if one fails. Keep in mind that the engine block is attached to rubber mounts. Some people will bolt the "battery to block" right to the starter bolt. | ||
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==Resources== | ==Resources== | ||
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[[Category:Undeveloped articles]] | [[Category:Undeveloped articles]] | ||
[[Category:Troubleshooting]] | [[Category:Troubleshooting]] | ||
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