Editing Adjusting solid lifters
Line 82: | Line 82: | ||
*If the engine is running normally, take both cold and hot lash readings. Those reading will obviously be close to the correct lash for that cam and engine. | *If the engine is running normally, take both cold and hot lash readings. Those reading will obviously be close to the correct lash for that cam and engine. | ||
*If nothing is known about the cam and the engine isn't running, and the unknown cam has to be used, regardless- set the valves cold to 0.016" for an iron head and block engine. 0.016" is used because it's basically at the top of the "tight lash" range, and at the bottom of an old-school cam's wider settings. What you do NOT want to do is set the lash too loose! If you have aluminum heads, go 0.004" to 0.006" tighter on the cold lash. | *If nothing is known about the cam and the engine isn't running, and the unknown cam has to be used, regardless- set the valves cold to 0.016" for an iron head and block engine. 0.016" is used because it's basically at the top of the "tight lash" range, and at the bottom of an old-school cam's wider settings. What you do NOT want to do is set the lash too loose! If you have aluminum heads, go 0.004" to 0.006" tighter on the cold lash. | ||
− | *Most cams have an ID engraved or stamped into them, often on the back end of the cam. The lift and duration @ 0.050" can also be measured if the equipment to degree the cam is available | + | *Most cams have an ID engraved or stamped into them, often on the back end of the cam. The lift and duration @ 0.050" can also be measured if the equipment to degree the cam is available. |
− | + | ||
==Special instructions for Duntov 30-30 cam== | ==Special instructions for Duntov 30-30 cam== |