Editing Rust (section)
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==Chemicals and finish products== ===Understanding "magic formula" marketing=== The market for rust removal, conversion, and encapsulation products is rife with far-fetched claims of "secret formula" rust solutions. Realistically, it's not very difficult for one company to chemically analyze another company's "secret formula", and produce an identical (or extremely similar) product. Many of the various rust removal and encapsulation products are, more or less, the same. A lot of it boils down to marketing, and the situation is only exacerbated by the fact that it's difficult to make a thorough assessment of a rust treatment product. Properly assessing a rust treatment solution would likely involve waiting several years, and then removing any outer layers of finish so that any existing underlying rust could be examined. The uneducated consumer will likely recoil at the abundance of "magic" formulas for treating rust, and revert to selecting a safe, well-known, name-brand product line. This is a reasonable solution for many, but the name-brand rust treatment products tend to be rather expensive, especially in consideration of the fact that they are often comprised of inexpensive, common chemicals. Someone who has achieved good results with a certain combination of rust treatment products will often stay loyal to their method, without exploring other potential options that may indeed provide better results at a lower cost. ===Miscellaneous (need to be sorted)=== *[http://www.tat-co.com/product.asp?ID=154 Body-Tec amber rustproofing]. 24 oz spray can. manufac: " Light viscosity allows material to flow into hard to reach areas easily. Ideal for core supports, sheet metal, frames etc" *[http://www.d-rust-it.com D-Rust-It] -- available in concentrate. *Amsoil HD *Slicksand *Featherfill *[http://www.krylon.com/main/product_template.cfm?levelid=5&sub_levelid=13&productid=1789&content=product_details Krylon rust tough primers] *[http://www.rustbeeter.com RustBeeter] (made from beets, maybe it's like molasses?) *Duro Extend *Devoe Bar-Rust *[http://www.noxudolusa.com/rust_protection/Rust_Protection.html Noxudol] *Loctite Extend Rust Treatment *Rustoleum (generally considered a poor choice for automotive applications. Good for cheap shop shelving, etc.) *[http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/body_interior_trim/auto_Permatex_Rust_Treatment.htm Permatex Rust Treatment] *[http://ridrust.com/ RidRust] *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler Rust Fighter] *DuPont 5717S Metal Conditioner *[http://www.rustx.com/ Rust-X] *[http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm Jasco] *Prep-sol *[http://www.napasco.com/enrustreat.htm Mar-Hyde Rust Converter] *Rust N-M-E *[http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=2182 Knorrostol] *[http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/ Hammerite] *[http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/ Fluid Film] *[http://www.waxoyl.com/en/produkte/120-4.htm Waxoyl] *[http://rustonic.com Rustonic] *[http://duplicolor.com/products/rustfix.html Duplicolor Rust Fix] *[http://www.therustdoctor.com/ Rust Doctor] *[http://bluelightning.zoovy.com/product/RR32 Blue Lightning] *[http://www.picklex20.com Picklex-20] *[http://rust007.com/knockout.htm Rust Knockout] *[http://www.napasco.com/enrustreat.htm Enrust] *[http://rust007.com/destroyerhome.htm Rust Destroyer] *Rust-Check *[http://www.evaporust.com/ Evapo-Rust Rust Remover] *[http://www.safestrustremover.com/ Safest Rust Remover] *[http://www.corroless.com/ Corroless] *[http://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm Klean Strip Rust Converter] *[http://www.zerorust.com/ Zero Rust] -- [http://www.zerorust.com/tech.htm tech page], [http://www.zerorust.com/faq.htm faq]. Rust cleaning product is "prep-step", and clearcoat is called "crystal coat". *Rust Reformer *[http://www.rustbullet.com Rust Bullet] *[http://www.ospho.com/ Ospho] *Oxisolve *Rust-n-me *DuPont Metal Conditioner *PPG Metal Prep *DuPont Vari-Prime *All-Metal *[http://tntrustremover.com/ TNT Rust Remover] ===Rust removers and "converters"=== After using an acid to remove rust, flush the surface with water and baking soda '''(confirm or expand on this)'''. When converting/neutralizing rust: # Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better). # A rust converter/neutralizer containing tannic acid, phosphoric acid or another type of acid should be used # Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it. # Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing. # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the bristles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint, so, again, use caution. Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. Don't use battery acid (sulfuric acid) or muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) for rust removal. Strong acids are dangerous, and there are many more effective chemicals. *[http://www.ospho.com/ Ospho] Manufacturer description: When applied to rusted surfaces, it resists/retards rust in chemical change on drying to a tough, hard surface ready for priming. *[http://rustbeeter.com/ Rustbeeter] Merchant description: A byproduct of the sugar refining process. Probably similar to molasses. Parts must be submerged. Parts soak in a bucket for usually under a week, but as long as several weeks. Food product. Dry powder that gets mixed with water. Non-acidic or caustic. After use, parts are cleaned with dish soap and water, dried, and coated. *[http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php Must for Rust] Merchant description: removes rust and corrosion, non-caustic to skin, needs no neutralizing, primer goes right over it. $28/gallon. *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=15974 Eastwood Rust Converter] Merchant description: 2-part mix, adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be top coated with most coatings. 1 gallon each of the 2-part mix is $125. *[http://www.rust-cure.com/ Rust Cure] Merchant description: phosphoric acid-based. leaves a thin film that bonds well with most primers and paints. for pricing, need to see this page: http://rustcure.bizland.com/xwheretobuy.html . *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1124&itemType=PRODUCT Oxisolv Rust Remover] Merchant description: dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Spray/brush/dip. Non-toxic, non-flammable, and re-usable. Must be cleaned off before priming. *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11122&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Rust Dissolver] Merchant description: acid free rust remover, leaves surface ready to paint, plate, or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts, and harmless to copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Surface must remain wet for product to work. $40/gallon. *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164 Rust-Mort] Merchant's description: "Converts rust to a black or grayish, hard, insoluble, protective coating". *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=206 SEM Rust-Seal] Manufacturer description: "Transforms rust leaving a tough, permanent, black protective coating. RUST-SEAL can be left exposed or may be top coated with enamels, lacquers or urethanes." ''(Make sure that none of the above count as "encapsulators". Also, what about the converters that leave a "protective film" on the metal. They say that they don't need neutralization, and they don't need to be washed off. Is this as good as cleaning to bare metal, and then hitting with epoxy primer?)'' *Vinegar *Muriatic acid (not for use on body panels, as it causes [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement hydrogen embrittlement]) *Toilet cleaner (?) *Cola (yes, contains phosphoric acid) *Phosphoric acid: leaves behind a coating of iron phosphate *Naval jelly (gelled phosphoric acid) *Mag wheel cleaner (?) *Molasses (a 1:10 solution of molasses to water can be used for soaking rusty parts, although it loses its strength after several months) *Powdered household cleaning products such as Comet or Ajax ===Rust encapsulators=== ''Main article: [[Rust encapsulators]]'' Rust encapsulators work by sealing off existing rust, denying it the oxygen it needs to grow. The use of rust encapsulators in hotrodding is controversial. Hotrodders typically divide into 3 distinct camps over the use of rust encapsulation products on vehicles: #Won't use rust encapsulation products at all. #Will use rust encapsulation products, but not on body panels. #Will use rust encapsulation products on a variety of parts, including body panels. ===Rust preventive oils and waxes=== *[http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1134 Cosmoline] . "Cosmoline" is a trade name for a generic rust preventative which conforms to US military specification MIL-C-11796C. It's a soft, brushable grease that's commonly used for preserving and storing firearms. "Rated to protect polished steel panels from rust for one year in open shed storage, and 30 days, minimum, in a humidity cabinet." $30/gallon *[http://boeshield.com/index.htm Boeshield T-9] "Designed to penetrate metal pores and dissolve minor corrosion, then leave a resilient waxy coating that lasts for many months." $100/gallon *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1117&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust]. Merchant's description: spray-on brown wax film which forms an air and water-tight barrier. won't crack, flake, or peel. used for inside door panels, or to protect bare metal parts during storage. $15/quart *[http://www.oxisolv.com/html/long_term.html Oxisolv rust inhibitor long term] -- Merchant description: displaces water on metal parts to prevent rust. environmentally safe, bio-degradable, protects steel. Apply by spraying thoroughly, or dipping. *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=161 SEM internal panel coating] Manufacturer description: "provides corrosion protection to inner body panels and other metal parts" *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GS3H3CPLMLbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter application wand] *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter] *[http://enjenjoesproducts.com/cg020001.html Brownpolymer rust inhibitor long term] -- Merchant description: displaces water on metal parts to prevent rust. environmentally Safe,It's a Cleaner,It's a Polish,It's a Lube, It's a Grease,It's a Protective Coating,Multi Use Polymer Substance *You can make your own basic rust protection coating from 1 part anhydrous lanolin (available from a pharmacy), and 5 parts paint thinner. *For machine tools, this is recommended: http://www.clclubricants.com/waylubes.htm . *Use something that releases rust-inhibiting vapor. Rust-blox vapor tabs, vpi paper, permatex in-charge corrosion inhibitor. ===Epoxy primer=== ''Main article: [[Epoxy primer]].'' Epoxy primer/sealer is a non-porous finish that is typically recommended as the first basecoat over bare steel. Various epoxy primers can also be applied over [[Fiberglassing|fiberglass]], plastic, or the black iron phosphate coating that remains after "converting" rust. Epoxy primer is a two-part mix, with a hardener that has to be added before spraying. Body fillers and high-build primers can be used on top of epoxy primer. ===Seam sealers=== Seam sealers are used to seal roof channels, drip rails, trunk seams, door seams, and other body seams. They can be either one or two-part, and are typically applied over primer, sometimes with the use of a specially-designed caulking gun or spray gun. *Lord Corporation makes several seam sealers: [http://www.lord.com/Home/ProductsServices/Adhesives/FusorAutomotiveAftermarketProducts/Products/SealersFoams/tabid/3402/Default.aspx Lord Corporation sealers and foams]. *3M manufactures several different types of seam sealers: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/New-Products/?PC_7_0_5FJC_command=CustomizePageHandler&PC_7_0_5FJC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_5FJC_output=html&PC_7_0_5FJC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_5FJC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_5FJC_node=GSWMS8NB1Nbe&PC_7_0_5FJC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv 3M seam sealers]. *SEM Products makes a [http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=96 seam sealer], a [http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=271 beige seam sealer], a [http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=269 high build self-leveling seam sealer], and a [http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=98 self-leveling seam sealer]. *Transtar Autobody Technologies makes a variety of seam sealers: [http://www.tat-co.com/productCategory.asp?ID=6#sub9 Transtar seam sealers]. *International Epoxies and Sealers: [http://www.internationalepoxies.com/sealers.htm International Epoxies and Sealers body sealers]. *Valvoline makes their [http://www.pliogripbyvalvoline.com/sealers_foam.html Pliogrip line of seam sealers]. *Evercoat has the [http://www.evercoat.com/productCategory.aspx?cat=41 Maxim line of seam sealers]. *McKanica makes a seam sealer in an aerosol can: [http://www.google.com/search?rls=en&q=mckanica+seam+sealer&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 McKanica seam sealer]. ====See also==== [http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7467 "Basics of Basics": Seam Sealers (by Brian Martin)] ===Metal washes, wax and grease removers=== *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=258&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C458%2C467%2C473&KickerID=39&KICKER Eastwood Metal Wash]. Merchant's description: dry compound that is mixed with water. removes grease and oils from bare metal, and leaves behind corrosion inhibitors that prevent flash rusting and promote paint adhesion. $11 for enough dry mix to make 7 quarts. *[http://www.aerospace.henkel.com/index.cfm?ID=178 Metalprep 79] Manufacturer's description: phosphoric acid-based cleaner. leaves surface chemically clean and corrosion free. thoroughly rinse with water when done. brush/spray/dip *Is DuPont's "Quick-Prep" equivalent to Metalprep? Read this thread thoroughly: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-else-wax-grease-remover-besides-mineral-spirits-51150.html What to use to remove wax, etc.] The following are not to be used as metal cleaners: lacquer thinner, acetone, reducers. Use the product within the recommendations of your product system. Cleaners typically vary as to strength, and time they take to evaporate. Use clean, purpose-designed paint rags for cleaning with cleaners. ===Weld-through primer=== Weld-through primer zinc-rich coating that conducts current from a welder, and doesn't burn off when welding. It can provide protection on lap welds and inner weld seams.Weld-through primer is often applied to the mating areas when welding body panels. *3M *U-Pol ===Panel adhesives=== Used to adhere body panels, as an alternative to welding. Need more information on these.
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