Mounting an electric fuel pump
Mounting an electric fuel pump directly to the vehicle's frame or underbody, etc. is not a good method for most vehicles. If you solid-mount the pump (bolt it directly to a frame member or other suitable structure of the car), it will transmit the noise and vibrations made by the pump into the sheet metal of the car and can make a pretty good racket that gets old to your ears after a while.
One way to mount an electric fuel pump is to use rubber insulated muffler/exhaust pipe hangers. These are black rubber hangers that are about 3/4" thick and 1" wide and look like they may have been cut from an old truck tire. They have holes drilled in them along the length and a quarter-round metal piece riveted onto one end of the hanger that matches the exhaust pipe curvature. The metal piece can be removed and as many of these hangars can be combined to give the size needed, then bolt the pump to the hangers to isolate the noise.
Barbed or AN-type fittings can be used with flexible fuel line like braided stainless steel lines for the fuel in/out at the pump, instead of steel hard lines. Use a 2-3 inch long piece of fuel-rated rubber hose to attach the inlet and outlet hard lines to the pump to further isolate the noise and vibration produced by the pump.
It's also a good idea to mount a fuel filter between the tank and the pump to keep junk out of the pump. Electric pumps were designed to push fuel, not pull it. Mount the pump as low and as near to the tank as possible without putting it so low that it would get damaged by highway trash and leave you thumbin' for a ride home.
A good pump like the Carter P4070 shown below will come with a mounting bracket suitable for most applications, Plus it usually comes with the mounting and electrical hardware. The cad plated bracket has a 90º bend in it that can be bent to fit most applications.
The Carter pump is a rotary pump as opposed to the diaphragm pumps like Holley. A rotary pump will be much quieter and has less vibration. This will result in less noise to the occupants inside the car. It will pump out an honest 4-7 psi.
If you decide to use a Holley Blue or Red pump, they come with a round clamp that grips the cylindrical body of the pump. Below are a couple of pictures of a mounting system that you could use on your application. It's somewhat flexible and protects the pump body from mechanical hazards.
The Holley pump and Fram filter below make a nice setup with a one-bolt mount to the body and a clamp around the fuel pump body. Easy access and a simple design make it user friendly. Notice that the fuel filter is an easy to remove/replace spin-on type. Flexible braided line eliminates most of the vibration from the pump, although the hard line used on the outlet side may transmit some vibrations.
One thing that should be noted when installing an electric fuel pump is that should there be an accident or a roll over, the pump will keep on pumping as long as the ignition is 'ON'. Therefore, it's recommended that some sort of rollover safety switch be installed to shut off the fuel pump for this very reason. For a couple bucks at the wreckers, you can usually find one in a late model Mustang or Crown Victoria, located in the trunk area by removing some of the trim panels by the driver side tail light. It's a small plastic box with two wires and a red reset button. They also can be found in most '90s trucks and SUVs in the passenger side kick panel. Install this inline in the power wire from the pump to the ignition switch and you'll have the same protection as the newer Ford cars enjoy. Painless sells a rollover safety switch kit as well, p/n 80160.
The pump can also be wired through an oil pressure switch that will shut the pump off any time the oil pressure falls below a predetermined pressure. However this is no guarantee the pump will shut off in a rollover, etc. because the engine may remain running. So do not rely solely on such a set-up.