Editing Lifters (section)
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===Lifter reassembly=== [[File:Lifter drawing.jpg|thumb|400px|right|Lifter components in order of reassembly]]The plunger gets the cup containing the tiny spring and check ball (no lint!) snapped back into place. Be sure it's seated squarely on the bottom of the plunger. It doesn't take a lot of force, just be sure it's on all the way and sits square on the plunger. Lightly lube the plunger using motor oil, put the stiff spring over the check ball cup on the bottom of the plunger, then insert the plunger assembly into the lifter body (again, no lint). Work the plunger up and down a few times (it'll take a minute to bleed the air from it) to verify it works smoothly and doesn't hang up or have any grittiness. Next replace the metering disc and then the pushrod cup. Using a wooden dowel or a pushrod, depress the pushrod cup and reinstall the retainer clip. Again- be careful to not launch the clip into orbit. At this point the lifter can be depressed and should return smoothly to being fully extended. <br style="clear:both"/> {{Note1}}If trying to repair a bad lifter and the lifter's inner bore is OK but the plunger is found to be unrepairable, replace the plunger assembly from another identical lifter and reuse the lifter body, then replace the lifter back on the same lobe it came from. The lifter is the most precisely machined part in the engine. The plunger OD is matched to the lifter body ID; the close tolerances are required to give the correct amount of bleed down. For that reason, there is a chance you might need to go through more than one lifter to find a good match to the old plunger OD. The MAIN thing is that the plunger not be too tight. Slightly loose will still perform OK, although there's a chance there could be some slight tapping at idle. But if the lifter and cam cannot for whatever reason be replaced as a set, this is STILL preferable to putting a new lifter on a used cam. <br><br> [[Category:Engine]] [[Category:Camshaft]]
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