Editing How to rebuild an engine (section)
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==Reassembly== *Always chase your threads with a thread chaser (not a tap) on all threaded holes, especially where torque values are critical, like head bolts holes, intake and exhaust holes, etc. *Clean all bolt threads thoroughly: A wire wheel on a grinder works well for this. *Clean and oil threads for a good torque reading but be sure that this is either what your manual instructs or is common practice for your engine/build. Take special care with soft metals like aluminum, as you may do irreparable damage. *Be sure to check and verify before reusing existing head bolts as some engines use "TTY" (torque to yield) fasteners that should not be reused; new fasteners are required. *Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads when using or replacing stainless steel fasteners, or when fasteners are threaded into aluminum. *Always check the unit system and grade of replacement fasteners. Using metric instead of SAE threads, for example, is not in any way acceptable, nor is using ungraded or the wrong grade fasteners. Use caution if using a different fastener strength grade (i.e. using a Grade 8 instead of a Grade 5 fastener); "stronger" isn't necessarily "better". Always use the fastener designated appropriate for your application. Using the wrong fastener could compromise the engine, its parts and/or put one at risk. In some instances, using too "strong" of a fastener may do more harm than good because they were intended to break before serious engine damage could occur. ===Rod and caps=== Remember to follow the manufacturer's cylinder numbering system unless they were numbered differently by you or someone else- not all engines had the rods numbered from the factory. Even if the rods aren't numbered you can still orientate them correctly for what side they go on. This can be done several ways: *If the pistons are on the rods, they'll have an arrow or notch. This faces forward. *If you install a rod bearing into the rod and cap, you'll see that it is positioned with one side further away from the face of the rod/cap. That side faces the crank cheek. *Usually the larger chamfer also faces the crank cheek; smaller chamfer faces the other rod on that journal.<br> {{Note1}}There are exceptions to this, unrelated to any specific make or size of engine- it happens randomly. There may be chamfers facing both ways in the same engine. *Numbers face the pan rail. ====Bearing tangs==== Different engines have the rod and cap bearing tangs facing differently, so don't think they're always one way or the other for all engines. On SBC and BBC, the bearing tang notch in the rod big end faces the pan rail of the engine. Other engines like the Pontiac and small block Ford have the bearing tangs oriented to the '''inside'''. {{Warning}}This has to be correct or severe engine damage can occur.
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