Editing How to rebuild an engine (section)
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===Prior to disassembling=== Before you start taking things off of your engine, there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts. You will need a 4-wheel engine stand (3-wheel engine stands have a wicked tendency to tip easily). Using a 4-wheel engine stand is the safest and fastest way to disassemble an engine. The only thing worse than dropping a greasy iron head on your foot is trying to catch an engine tipping over on a 3-wheel engine stand. You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not lose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies. This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath. A can of PB Blaster or something like it can be used on the rusted fasteners. Before starting disassembly, it is best to clean the built up sludge off the motor, preferably well before the motor enters the bay (a clean work area ensures a clean build). Degreasing the engine with a heavy duty degreaser accompanied by power washing works very well. Be sure to plug all holes to prevent water getting inside the engine. Some motors have sludge so thick it hides bolts and prolongs disassembly It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags. Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands. If at all possible, roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom. As a suggestion, revise to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles. Then, when you are putting things back together, you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes.
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