Editing Freeing a stuck engine (section)
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==After the engine is freed up== You now have to make a choice: run the engine as is, or pull the heads and pan to check for damages. If you're going to do a compression test or a leakdown test, drain and refill with new oil. Circulate the new oil throughout the oil galleries by cranking the engine to purge the diesel fuel, and then start the engine to warm it up and burn off some of the diesel fuel in the engine. In most cases you should go the [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_rebuild_an_engine overhaul route], checking for wear, mic'ing out the bores and clearances of bearings, etc. If the engine is all together you may have success by running hot water through the engine. This takes HOT water, 180 degree or so. Remove the thermostat and attach your hoses to your heating unit and pump the hot water thru the cooling system. Most frozen engines are caused by rings being stuck to cylinder walls. The theory here is the heat will expands the cast iron block faster than the pistons; the extra clearance this creates gives the penetrating oil a better chance at reaching the stuck areas as well as may break any bonds formed by rust/corrosion. One way is to use a homemade oil burner water heater system with a pump. If possible use the starter to budge it as you pump the hot water.
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