Editing Freeing a stuck engine (section)
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===Miscellaneous=== After trying the aforementioned soaking to no avail, determine which cylinder is on the compression stroke by removing the spark plugs and using a compression gauge hose or other hose that fits snugly in the spark plug hole. Blow in the hose, if you can't easily then you have the one on compression stroke (if you use a compression tester hose make sure it has no Schrader valve in it). Break the porcelain out of an old spark plug and thread the metal body for a large grease fitting (1/4" NPT). Insert the plug in the cylinder that's on the compression stroke and pump it full of grease using a grease gun filled with cheap light weight grease (like Lubriplate white grease). Once the motor breaks free you can rotate the motor to squeeze most of the grease out of the spark plug hole. Another approach is to put some Marvel Mystery Oil, WD-40 or PB Blaster into each cylinder and then pressurize with compressed air. On cylinders that are not under compression, the compressed air will distribute the penetrating oil. With the cylinder under compression, the compressed air will act to rotate the engine while driving the penetrating oil past the rings. There are tales of Coke being used to loosen a stuck engine. Presumably this has something to do with the small acid content of Coke. Try it if you want to. {{Warning}}Use good eye protection. Blow compressed air into all the cylinders to coat the cylinders and piston tops with the penetrant. Give it a couple minutes/hours/days so it can work on the rust. Afterwards, screw in the compressed air adapter and charge each cylinder with fifty or so psi. It helps if you completely loosen the rockers first so any cylinder you charge has the valves closed. If it doesn't turn over at fifty psi it's not ready. Apply more oil and wait. It's time consuming and may be a bit of work, but the object is to SAVE the engine.
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