Editing DynoSim combinations (section)
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===350 SBC- Cheap to build/regular fuel street motor=== *[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB142-030/ These pistons] *[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL112011-11/ This cam] *[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Vortec_L31_cylinder_head '''Vortec L31 heads'''] from a boneyard, casting number 12558062 or 10239906. Magnaflux for cracks. Fit new stock or equivalent springs and seals. Make certain seals are fully seated on the guide boss by tapping them with a socket and small hammer. *The stock springs will work well with the mild cam and will not pull the rocker studs out of the heads. Doesn't matter whether the heads have hard inserts in the exhaust or induction hardened seats, either will work. Same casting, both styles flow the same. Give them a three angle valve job and backcut the valves if they're not already done. Use the self aligning stock rockers that came on the heads. *Align hone the main bearing bores in the block and cut the block decks for 9.015" block deck height, referenced off the main bearing bore so that you know the block deck height is equal on all four corners. This will insure that the heads sit level and flat on the deck and that the intake manifold will sit square to the heads with no gaps to cause a vacuum leak. Use GM head gasket #10105117 or equivalent. *Static compression ratio will be 9.1:1 and squish will be 0.042". Use Edelbrock p/n 7116 Performer RPM intake manifold. A 600cfm carb is all that's needed. *Makes 365 hp @ 5000 rpm with a double torque peak of 420 ft/lbs @ 3500 and 4000 rpm. Should make this power on regular pump gas without detonation and make for a real nice daily driver motor. *The cam begins making power at 1200 rpm, so there's little need for a looser converter. A 2000 stall converter would be all that wouold be needed to keep the car from creeping at stoplights and also to get up into the 1500 rpm bottom range of the intake manifold at the hit of the throttle.
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